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Rat
(Rattus norvegicus)
Diet: Omnivorous
Adult Size: 13-18"
including tail
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Native To: Worldwide
Characteristics:
Intelligent, lively, sociable,
entertaining
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Did
You Know:
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Rats have very poor distance
vision and depth perception,
but they can see colors in
the ultraviolet spectrum
that are invisible to the
human eye.
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A rat will reach puberty by
the time it is only two
months old, or younger.
Females
will go into heat about once
a week. This period
generally lasts one day. A
female
rat can have a litter of up
to 11 babies every 4-5
weeks.
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Recent research suggests
that rats can smell in
“stereo” with each nostril
working
independently of the other,
much the same way human ears
do. This excellent sense
of smell helps the rat
locate food.
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Look Out For This:
Rats are smart, inquisitive,
strong and resourceful. They
also have
flexible bodies, and can, with a
little determination, work their
way
their way through any opening
that they can fit their head
into. For
all of these reasons, a rat’s
enclosure should have secure
doors and
narrowly spaced bars. Extra care
should also be taken to make a
rat’s
“playroom” outside the cage as
escape proof as possible.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole sources of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care.
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Things You Should Know About Rats |
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The Basics: |
Intelligent, curious
animals, rats are easily
tamed and make good pets
if provided with proper
care and companionship.
They enjoy the company
of humans, and can often
be taught simple tricks.
Although they are not
“high maintenance” pets,
rats require regular
attention from their
human companions, and at
least an hour of
exercise outside their
cages every day.
Rats of both sexes make
equally good pets,
though females are often
more playful than males.
Unlike mice, there is no
difference in odor
between males and
females. Though
these hardy creatures
can thrive in just about
every climate extreme,
they do have some basic
needs to keep them
healthy and happy. Since
they are sociable
animals, rats should be
kept at least in pairs,
or more if space allows.
Adult females enjoy the
companionship of other
females, and males will
usually live together
happily if introduced at
a young age. Neutered or
spayed animals will get
along well with others
of either sex. |
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Enclosure:
Ventilation Is Critical: |
A wire cage measuring at
least 2’ x 2’ x 2’ will
give a pair
of rats enough room to
roam and climb. At least
two cubic feet of space
should be added for
every additional rat.
Since rats are
intelligent and
natural-born explorers,
more space is always
preferable if it can be
provided. Bare
galvanized wire absorbs
urine, so it's
unsuitable rat cage
material. A rat's cage
should be made of coated
metal.
Never locate a cage in
direct sunlight or a
drafty area of the
house. The cage should
be placed in an area
that allows the rat to
see and feel a part of
family activities.
Although rats are
basically ground
dwellers, they also love
to climb, so their cage
should offer vertical
space and multiple
platforms. Horizontal
bars (rather than
vertical) also offer
built-in climbing
opportunities. Cage bars
must never be more than
˝ inch apart. A space
any wider will allow
juveniles and females to
squeeze through and
escape or injure
themselves.
Aquarium tanks should
not be used as permanent
housing for rats, since
they make it difficult
to provide adequate
ventilation. As a rat's
urine and feces breaks
down they will
release ammonia. This
gas will collect in a
poorly ventilated glass
tank, harming the rat's
respiratory system. |
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Bedding:
Absorbent And Dust Free: |
Rats need around an inch
of absorbent bedding on
the
floor of their enclosure
to provide them with a
sense of security and an
opportunity to burrow.
Bedding serves the added
important purpose of
absorbing moisture from
waste. Recommended
bedding includes
non-aromatic wood
shavings, reclaimed wood
pulp, and recycled paper
products are all good
choices. Avoid fine
sawdust, since it
creates high levels of
dust that can lead to
eye irritations and
respiratory infections.
Cedar and pine based
products cause
respiratory problems and
must never be used.
Newspapers should also
be avoided since the ink
can harm a rat if
ingested. Soiled bedding
must be removed daily,
and bedding should be
changed completely once
a week. If you use corn
cob bedding change it
often to protect against
the build up of bacteria
and mold. Also do not
use corn cob bedding
with a pet that may
ingest bedding. |
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Cage
Furnishings:
Provide Opportunities To
Exercise, Chew, And Rest:
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Highly intelligent
animals, rats must be
provided with a variety
of challenging and safe
toys. These toys should
be rotated to keep them
interesting for the pet.
Balls and tubular toys
are always popular with
rats. Since they enjoy
climbing, rats will also
make good use of
ladders, hammocks and
multilevel
platforms in their
cages. All rodent toys
are designed to stand up
to constant chewing, but
nevertheless, a rat's
playthings should be
checked constantly for
signs of damage. Many
rats also like exercise
wheels. The rat keeper
should make sure to
select a wheel that's
large enough for the
pet. Wheels should also
be solid, since open
rung models can trap a
rat's tail.
Like all rodents, a
rat's teeth are growing
constantly. To keep
these teeth trim, a rat
must gnaw on something
hard on a regular basis.
If a rat has nothing to
chew, it will eventually
be unable to close its
mouth, and will starve.
Wooden chew toys
designed especially for
rodents are available in
a variety of shapes,
sizes and aromas. Chew
toys should be inspected
on a daily basis, and
replaced if they’re
soiled or
excessively worn. When
they're not playing or
chewing, rats like to
rest, so a nesting box
or large cozy tubular
structure should be
placed in their cages. |
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Playtime Outside The
Cage:
Roaming In A Rat-Proof
Room: |
Highly intelligent
animals, rats should
also be let out of their
cage for at least an
hour a day to explore a
"rat proof" room
of the house. Make sure
all doors and windows to
this room are closed,
and that dogs, cats and
other pets are kept
away. Also check to make
sure that there are no
openings, even ones as
tiny as ˝ inch in
diameter that a rat can
squeeze through. The
areas below and behind
heavy furniture should
be blocked, all wires
should be covered and
household cleaning
chemicals or other
potentially toxic
material like ant traps
should not be
accessible. Have a small
backup cage in the rat
play room, so the pet
has a place to retreat
to. It's a good idea to
place a small treat in
this get-away spot, so
it becomes familiar to
your pet. Always stay
close to your pet in the
room and be aware of his
movements. For added
fun,
consider setting up a
maze with a prize at the
end for your rat to
master. Some people find
it easier and safer to
limit their rat’s
outings to the top of a
large table or bathtub. |
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Lighting: |
Rats have no special
lighting requirements,
other than a 12-hour
on/12-hour off day/night
cycle. |
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Temperature & Humidity:
Very Tolerant: |
Rats became one of the
most widely distributed
animals in the world in
large measure because
they are able to
tolerate a wide range of
climatic conditions.
60 degrees to 90 degrees
with a 30-50% humidity
is ideal for them. They
are usually very content
at an average room
temperature. |
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Food & Diet:
Opportunistic Omnivores: |
In the wild, rats are
renowned for eating just
about anything. Pet rats
are usually just as easy
to please, but their
health and well-being
demands that they eat a
balanced diet designed
to meet their specific
nutritional needs. Rat
and mouse prepackaged
mixes or rat and mouse
food blocks, especially
those listing soy as the
main ingredient, offer
good nutrition and help
wear down the teeth.
Commercial food also
provides the perfect
combination of protein,
minerals, vitamins and
fiber to maintain good
health – formulas
containing small, hard
biscuits will also help
to wear down the teeth.
Follow the
manufacturer’s
guidelines regarding
daily portions.
Typically, this will
mean feeding the rat 3-4
tablespoons of mixes or
2-3 blocks every day.
Also use common sense
and watch your rats for
signs of over or under
eating. Small amounts of
fresh vegetables should
also be given each day,
but avoid vegetables
grown from bulbs, such
as onions. Though rats
are omnivores, they do
not need to eat meat so
long as their diet
offers enough protein.
Though rats will most
likely eat anything put
before them, never offer
‘junk food’ or table
scraps, since this can
lead to obesity. Remove
uneaten vegetables
promptly, and discard
uneaten dry food daily. |
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A
Note About Water:
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All water given to this
pet must be 100% free of
chlorine and heavy
metals. (Not all home
water filtration systems
remove 100% of the
chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. Do
not use distilled water,
which can cause severe
medical problems, since
it lacks minerals that
are essential to
important body
functions. |
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Water:
They Need Plenty Of
Fresh Water: |
Rats need a constant
supply of clean, fresh chlorine-free
water. Use a
cage-mounted animal
drinking bottle rather
than a dish, choosing
one with a chew-proof
metal tip. If a bowl is
used, choose a heavy
ceramic model
that cannot easily be
tipped over. Change the
water daily, and check
for leakage - the water
should only come out
when the animal sips at the tube.
Check also that the
animal hasn’t caused a
blockage by kicking
substrate up the spout. |
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How to Handle A Rat:
A rat that is handled
regularly from an early age will
readily accept being picked up
by his
human companion. Speak gently to
the rat when approaching in
early handling sessions,
and reward him with a small
treat. Always make sure that the
room is “rat proof” before
picking up a rat, in case the
animal gets away.
Pick up a rat by gently placing
one hand behind the head, then
grasp the animal around the
rib cage and, supporting his
hindquarters with your other
hand, lift him up toward you.
Once you’ve done this, cradle
the rat against your body using
as little restraining force as
possible. Another option is to
place your hand behind the rat,
then slip your thumb under
its body by the forelimbs below
the lower jaw, and gently roll
it over in your palm. It’s not
a good idea to pick up a rat by
the tail, since this can tear
the skin.
Allow a rat to grow accustomed
to being handled at his own
pace. If he wants to jump out
of your hands, do not attempt to
restrain him. Either put him
back in the cage, or if you’re
sure the room is rat safe, lower
him to a few inches above the
ground and let him go, then
pick him up again. A rat will be
more relaxed when held facing
toward you rather than
away from you. Always wash your
hands before and after handling
a rat or any small
animal.
Rats Around The House:
As soon as the rat is
hand-tamed, it should be allowed
to play outside the cage in a
secure,
rat-proofed area for an hour or
so each day, under the strictest
supervision. Cats and dogs
should be elsewhere in the
house, electrical cords must be
picked up off the floor, and if
possible the doors to the room
should be closed. Rats can
squeeze into the tiniest of
openings, such as under a sofa
or behind furniture, so make
sure to block off any nooks and
crannies the animal could
wriggle into. Keep cleaning
fluids and other hazardous
materials
out of harm’s way. Above all,
observe the animal closely at
all times.
If the animal has an “accident”
while roaming the house, clean
it up immediately using an
enzyme-based pet stain remover.
Leaving any trace of the smell
may tempt him to keep
using that same spot as a toilet
whenever he passes by. |
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Cleaning The Enclosure:
Inspect the substrate daily,
picking out droppings and
removing uneaten food. Once a
week, empty out the whole
enclosure and clean the cage and
all the accessories with hot,
soapy water, using a scrubbing
brush. Never use pine-scented
products to clean small
animal enclosures, since this
can cause respiratory problems.
Periodically disinfect the cage
with a product designed for
small animals, or a bleach
solution, following the
guidelines found earlier in this
manual. Rats should be placed in
a
secure “holding” cage or tank
while their cage is cleaned.
Always wear gloves when
cleaning a rat’s cage, and wash
your hands afterward.
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Common Rat Ailments
Though wild rats are
notoriously hardy and
disease-resistant, pet animals
do not have the
same immunities. Common first
symptoms of illness include loss
of appetite, unusual
lethargy, hunching up,
fluffed-up fur, half-closed eyes
or labored breathing. If a rat
appears
ill, immediate veterinary advice
should be sought, since diseases
can progress very
quickly.
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Red discharge from the
eyes or nose – Although the
rat may appear to be
bleeding, this alarming red
coloration is actually
caused by a naturally
occurring
pigment in the mucus known
as porphyrin. This discharge
can be a sign of
stress or respiratory
infection. If the animal has
other symptoms of illness,
or if
the discharge continues for
more than a day, seek
veterinary advice.
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Abscesses and tumors –
Abscesses, rapidly growing
lumps that may feel hot to
the touch, are usually the
result of an infected bite
and require immediate
veterinary care. Odd lumps
and bumps that develop more
slowly are likely to be
tumors - often benign, but
potentially cancerous.
Female rats are especially
prone to mammary tumors. If
caught early enough, tumors
can often be
removed surgically from
healthy animals. Seek
veterinary attention to
determine
an appropriate course of
treatment for your rat.
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Skin Irritation – the two
main causes are parasite
infestation and food
allergies.
A veterinarian can rule out
or treat mite infestation,
and the owner can test for
food allergies. The
veterinarian may also
prescribe an ointment and
trim the
nails to prevent injury from
excessive scratching. The
foods that most
commonly cause allergy
problems are sunflower
seeds, peanuts, and the
colored
biscuits found in commercial
rodent foods. By removing
all these foods from
the animal’s diet for a
week, then re-introducing
them one at a time every
three
days, it may be possible to
discover the culprit. If no
one food is isolated, the
rat
should be given only fresh
food for a week, then have
commercial food reintroduced
to his diet. If this causes
symptoms to re-appear, the
cause is likely
to be some additive or
preservative in the
commercial mix. Try
switching
brands until symptoms
disappear.
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Kidney failure – Excessive
thirst and urine output
accompanied by a swollen
abdomen could signify renal
failure. This serious
condition requires immediate
veterinary treatment. If the
condition is not too far
advanced, the vet may
recommend a low protein
diet.
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Respiratory Disease –
Unfortunately rats are prone
to respiratory infections.
Symptoms include reddish
brown discharge around the
nose and eyes, a rough hair
coat, tilting of the head,
hunching, sneezing,
sniffing, coughing and
labored breathing. A
respiratory infection can
develop into a very serious
condition, so a pet who
exhibits even some of these
symptoms should be take to a
veterinarian experienced in
treating small animal
ailments.
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Recommended
Rat Supplies:
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