Mouse
(Musmusculus)

Diet: Herbivorous
Adult Size: 2 1/2-4" not including tail
Lifespan
: 1-3 years
Native To: Worldwide
Characteristics: Nocturnal, intelligent & lively
 

Did You Know:

  • Mice can only see in black and white. Though they can’t distinguish colors, they
    have highly developed night vision.

  • Though we typically think of pet mice as white with red eyes, selective breeding
    has created many different colors and markings, in a wide range of sizes. There are
    now over eight hundred known variants.

  • The athletic mouse can jump up to 13 inches high, run along narrow wires and up
    rough vertical surfaces, and squeeze through opening not much larger than one
    quarter inch diameter.

Look Out For This:
Mice are practically incontinent. They will urinate and defecate
very frequently and indiscriminately, though not in large quantities
at any one time. However, because of this, their cages must be
cleaned more often than enclosures housing other rodents.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole sources of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.

Things You Should Know About Mice

The Basics:

Mice are active, social and somewhat timid animals that are becoming more popular as pets. It’s easy to see why - not only are mice fun to watch, they’re also easy to keep. Hardy and resourceful animals, mice are found in every corner of the globe. Yet despite their durability, these little critters should never be taken for granted as pets. To live full, healthy lives, they require a proper diet, clean surroundings, the company of
other mice and plenty of activity. Unfortunately, regardless of its quality, a mouse’s life doesn’t last too long. Many mice live only about a year, rarely will they live much past
their third birthdays. Since mice are social creatures, they need one another’s company. However, males can
become territorial, so they should be introduced to one another gradually in a “neutral” enclosure. Only mice of the same sex should be housed together to keep this prolific
breeder from multiplying.

Enclosure: Mouse House:

A group of up to four mice can be housed comfortably in an
enclosure that measures at least 24” long by 12” high, by 12” deep. The enclosure can be a coated metal cage or glass aquarium tank with a wire lid that provides ample ventilation.
Great care to provide frequent cleaning is necessary if a glass tank is used, since it can become too humid, even with a wire top. A glass tank will also make it easier for ammonia from the mouse's urine to collect and become stagnant in the tank, harming the animal's respiratory system. A coated metal cage
is preferable with bars close together to prevent escapes. Mouse cage bars should never have more than ¼” of space between. A mouse will easily work his way through a ½”
space. Select a cage with horizontal bars, since this will afford the mouse climbing opportunities. The floor of a metal cage must be solid, since wire mesh bottoms will harm a mouse’s feet. The enclosure should be positioned away from direct sunlight, drafts and heat sources, and must be checked thoroughly for any means of escape. Mice are virtually incontinent, urinating and defecating indiscriminately as they move about the cage. In the course of a day, a single mouse may produce up to 80 droppings, along with a dribble of urine covering everything in its path. As the urine dries, ammonia
fumes are created. This not only smells bad to the owner, but can be a health hazard to the animal, too. To keep the mouse healthy, be sure to clean the cage and change the bedding BEFORE the smell becomes noticeable. This is especially true if you have a glass tank aquarium, which will retain more ammonia fumes than a cage.

Bedding: Absorbent And Dust-Free

Mice need an inch of absorbent bedding on the floor of
their enclosure - recommended materials include wood shavings, chlorophyll, or a rodent substrate made from reclaimed wood pulp or pelleted paper. Fine sawdust can
create too much dust in the enclosure, leading to eye irritations and respiratory infections. Cedar and pine based products should never be used, since they can cause severe
respiratory problems that lead to liver damage. Chlorophyll bedding is a popular mouse substrate thanks to its ability to mask urine odor, but its green coloration can stain the
animals’ fur. Change the bedding completely twice a week, more often if it starts to smell. Mice also need a comfortable place to sleep, either in some clean, fresh hay or in a
commercially available rodent nesting material. One advantage of using hay is that the animals will also eat it, receiving nutritious fiber and wearing down their teeth. For this
reason, the hay needs to be of a high quality - change it frequently to prevent the animals eating soiled hay.
Another advantage of hay is that some rodent nesting materials can choke or cause intestinal obstructions if swallowed, or can entangle and amputate limbs. Wooden hamster boxes are rarely used for mice, since they absorb too much urine odor. If you use corn cob bedding change it often to protect against the build up of bacteria and mold. Also do not use corn cob bedding with a pet that may ingest bedding.

Exercise: Mouse Workout:

Mice are intelligent creatures that need lots of physical and mental stimulation, so their enclosure should include a wide variety of toys that have been developed especially for small rodents. These toys are usually designed to be safe when
chewed, but all toys and accessories should be checked regularly for signs of wear and discarded if cracked or splintered. Exercise wheels should be solid, since open-runged wheels can trap the animal’s tail. A mouse can be allowed out in a clear exercise ball, but never for more than 10 minutes at a time to avoid overheating.

Chewing: Essential For Oral Health:

Like all rodents, a mouse’s teeth are constantly growing.
To prevent teeth from growing too long, a mouse must wear them down by frequent chewing. If a mouse is deprived of opportunities to chew, his teeth will become so long that
he will no longer be able to open his mouth and will starve to death. It is absolutely essential to provide a pet mouse with wooden chew toys that have been designed especially
for rodents. These toys are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and aromas – some are even made in fun food shapes. Chew toys should be inspected on a daily basis, and
replaced if they’re soiled or excessively worn.

Lighting: Mice have no special lighting requirements, other than a 12-hour on/12-hour off day/night cycle.

Temperature & Humidity: Moderate Mice:

As a rule of thumb, if room temperature is comfortable for people, it will suit mice just fine too. Mice are comfortable in temperatures between 60-90ºF. The humidity level should be 30-50%, which is an average humidity temperature. This means they’re usually very content at an average room temperature, needing no special heating or lighting other than a 12 hour day/night cycle.

Food & Diet: No Cheese, Please: Contrary to popular belief, mice don’t live on cheese. Commercially available dry rat and mouse food pellets and blocks offer a healthy combination of protein, minerals, vitamins and fiber to maintain good health. Choose a formula that offers at least 16 percent protein and 18 percent fiber, if possible containing small, hard biscuits to help wear down the teeth. Follow the manufacturer’s directions regarding portion size. Typically, this will be two tablespoons for mixes, or one block per day. Follow common sense to adjust portions up or down depending on the mouse’s weight. While mice love sunflower seeds and peanuts, they are extremely high in fat and should not be offered in the food bowl – most animals will choose to eat only the seeds and nuts, ignoring the healthier parts of their food. Occasional portions of thoroughly washed, pesticide free vegetables can also be offered in moderation. Other occasional treats can be low sugar cereals such as shredded wheat, plain cooked pasta and dry oatmeal. Remove uneaten vegetables promptly, and discard uneaten dry food daily. Somewhat picky eaters, mice are often reluctant to accept new food. Changes in diet should be introduced gradually, and the mouse should be monitored to make sure it is accepting the new menu.
Water: Bottles, Not Bowls: Mice need a constant supply of clean, fresh chlorine-free water. Use a cage-mounted small animal drinking bottle rather than a bowl, choosing one with a chew-proof metal tip. Change the water daily, and check for leakage - the water should only come out when the animal sips at the tube. Check also that the animal hasn’t caused a blockage by kicking substrate up the spout.
A Note About Water: All water given to this pet must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
Grooming: Mice groom themselves regularly so they usually need no grooming by their owner. A sick mouse that has neglected its self-grooming can be brushed VERY gently with a soft toothbrush.

How to Handle A Mouse:
Most small animals tend to be nervous when first picked up, and may bite or urinate.
However, when handled regularly from an early age many mice become quite tame –
offering a sunflower seed at each handling often helps the animal to bond with his owner.
Before even opening the enclosure, check that the room is safe for the mouse if it should
escape. Curious cats and dogs should be elsewhere in the house, electrical cords must be
picked up off the floor, and if possible the doors to the room should be closed. Never
handle a mouse over a hard surface – keep it close to the ground over a soft pillow, or hold
it above the enclosure.
Lift a mouse by gently grasping the area at the base of its tail in one hand and cupping the
other hand under the mouse’s body. It is important not to lift the mouse entirely by the tail,
since this can tear the skin. Also make sure to grasp the tail as close to the base as possible,
rather than at or near the tip. You may also pick up a mouse by gently grasping the skin
over neck behind the head and guiding the animal into your cupped hand. Hold the mouse
in place firmly at the base of the tail or nape of the neck, while the animal rests in your
cupped hand, but be careful not to squeeze too tightly, since this can injure the animal.
Always wash your hands well before picking up a mouse – the combination of the smell of
food on a hand and the animal’s poor eyesight sometimes tempts the mouse to take a
nibble. Hands must always be washed after handling a mouse or any other small animal.
 

 

Cleaning The Enclosure:
As noted earlier, mice will urinate and defecate frequently throughout the day. For this
reason, mouse cages must be cleaned more often than those of other pocket pets. Inspect
the substrate daily, picking out droppings and removing uneaten food. At least twice a
week, or more often if the smell demands it, empty out the whole enclosure and clean the
cage and all the accessories with hot, soapy water, using a scrubbing brush.
Periodically disinfect the cage with a product designed for small animals or a bleach
solution, following the guidelines found earlier in this manual. Mice should be placed in a
secure “holding” cage or tank while their cage is cleaned. Always wear rubber gloves when
cleaning a mouse’s cage, and wash your hands afterward.

 

Common Mice Ailments

Even though it’s a hardy little animal, the pet mouse is less resilient than its wild cousins,
so it can suffer from a variety of health problems. The first signs of illness often include
poor appetite, weight loss, a dull coat, runny eyes or nose, and inactivity. If any of these
signs are noticed, clean and disinfect the cage completely, change the bedding, and check
that the enclosure is not situated in a drafty or damp location. If the animal does not
improve, seek the advice of a veterinarian specializing in small animal care. Some ailments
are related to poor hygiene or incorrect diet - following the guidelines in this manual can
help to keep mice healthy.

  • Respiratory Problems - In a confined environment, mice are constantly
    subjected to ammonia fumes from their dried urine. This can lead to respiratory
    problems, labored breathing and pneumonia. Ensure the cage is well ventilated,
    and change the bedding frequently. Some respiratory problems can also be
    caused by allergic reactions to moldy hay or bedding.
  • Diarrhea - Watery droppings are most likely due to the animal eating too many
    fresh fruits or vegetables. Stop offering fresh foods completely for a few days,
    then gradually re-introduce fruits and vegetables one at a time every two days,
    until the culprit is found.
  • Lice, mites and fungal infections - These infestations thrive in unclean, moist
    conditions. A mouse walking in circles, tilting its head or scratching its ear
    likely has ear mites. Seek the advice of a veterinarian for an appropriate pest or
    antifungal treatment. Clean and disinfect the cage and accessories completely,
    making sure to dry everything thoroughly before adding fresh bedding.
  • Abscesses and tumors – Abscesses, rapidly growing lumps that may feel hot to
    the touch, are usually the result of an infected bite and require immediate
    veterinary care. Odd lumps and bumps that develop more slowly are likely to be
    tumors - often benign, but potentially cancerous. Female mice are especially
    prone to mammary tumors. Seek veterinary attention to determine an
    appropriate course of treatment for your mouse.
  • Kidney failure – Excessive thirst and urine output accompanied by a swollen
    abdomen could signify renal failure. This serious condition requires immediate
    veterinary treatment. If the condition is not too far advanced, the vet may
    recommend a low protein diet.


Recommended Mouse Supplies:

  • A secure enclosure

  • Suitable substrate

  • Food bowl

  • Small rodent food

  • Cage-mounted water bottle

  • Exercise wheel

  • Chew toys

  • A secure transport cage for use when going to the vet and during cage cleaning