Syrian Hamster
(Mesocrietus auratus)
Golden (shortharied) or Teddy Bear (longhaired)

Diet: Herbivorous
Adult Size: 5-8"
Lifespan
: 2-3 years
Native To: Dry steppe regions of Syria
Characteristics: Solitary, nocturnal, relatively shy, and wary
 

Did You Know:

  • All Syrian hamsters living in captivity today are descendants of a single female and
    her twelve babies, captured in Syria in 1930.

  • The name ‘hamster’ comes from the German word for ‘hoard,’ a reference to their
    habit of storing huge amounts of food in their cheek pouches. This enables them to
    carry food back to their nest from far and wide. In its natural environment, a single
    hamster can stash up to 240 pounds of saved food in its burrow.

Look Out For This:
Syrian Hamsters are solitary creatures that must be kept singly to
avoid fighting that often results in the death of one of the combatants.
Like rabbits, hamsters are coprophagic, which means they will eat
some of their feces to obtain the full nutritional value of their food. So
hamster owners should not be alarmed by this behavior. Extra care
should be taken when choosing bedding or litter for a hamster’s cage.
Never use clumping or clay cat litter, since this will obstruct the
digestive system and ultimately kill the hamster. Any small granular
substrate should be avoided for similar reasons.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole sources of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.

Things You Should Know About Syrian Hamsters

The Basics:

The Syrian Hamster is not just found in Syria, but also in dry, rocky steppe regions of Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, the Caucasus states, Israel and Northern Iran. Each hamster usually lives in its own burrow, surrounded by its own jealously guarded territory, though families comprising mother, father and babies often live together until the youngsters reach maturity. For this reason, each Syrian Hamster must be housed in its own cage. This is not the case for Dwarf Hamster species - they usually enjoy companionship. Nocturnal animals, Syrian Hamsters will often become aggressive and may bite if disturbed during the day.

Enclosure: They Like Their Own Room:

Since only one hamster should occupy a single enclosure, it does not have to be very large. A secure wire cage or a 10-20 gallon aquarium with a wire-mesh top is fine, though many owners like to treat their pets to a plastic tubular habitat that mimics the complex underground tunnel networks typically constructed in the wild. Position the enclosure well away from drafts, heaters and direct sunlight, and check it thoroughly for all possible means of escape. Hamsters are active, and often a little noisy at night, so this should be considered before deciding to keep a cage in the bedroom. Bars on a cage should be no more than ½ to ¾ inches apart to prevent escapes.

Bedding: They Dig It:

Hamsters like their substrate to be several inches deep to allow them to dig and burrow. Providing a 1-2” layer of substrate with a 6” high bank at one end of the enclosure is a good way to offer plenty of digging depth. The substrate should be absorbent and dust free - recommended materials include wood shavings, or a rodent substrate made from reclaimed wood pulp or pelleted paper. Never use cedar or pine based products, since they can cause severe respiratory problems. Shredded newspaper should also be avoided since the ink will rub off on the hamster. Some hamsters can be trained to use a litter box - if it becomes apparent that more droppings are being found in one part of the cage than anywhere else, a commercially available ‘hamster potty’ should be placed there, filled with hay or pelleted newspaper cat litter. Clumping and clay cat litters must never be used, since they can cause digestive or respiratory problems. For a reluctant potty trainer, placing a few of the animal’s own droppings inside the litter box should help it understand the box’s purpose. Clean out the litter box daily, and disinfect it weekly. If you use corn cob bedding change it often to protect against the build up of bacteria and mold. Also do not use corn cob bedding with a pet that may ingest bedding.

Nesting Material: Cozy Beds Are A Favorite:

Being nocturnal animals, hamsters need a comfortable place to hide away during the day. This is best provided by placing a nesting box with nesting material in the cage. Shredded white paper, such as tissue or paper towels provide a good nesting material. The nesting box should be large enough for the hamster to turn around in, but not much bigger.

Exercise: Exercising Improves Health:

Hamsters are naturally active creatures, but when
confined in a small cage they may be unable to get enough exercise. A lack of activity can lead to a variety of medical issues. Hamsters that do not get enough exercise can become hunched over, unable to raise their heads. The traditional hamster wheel is an ideal outlet for a hamster’s energy - a research study found that hamsters typically run five miles a night on their exercise wheels. Solid
wheels without open rungs are kindest to the feet. A hamster living in a tubular plastic habitat will get some exercise from running, jumping and climbing inside its home, but it will also need to run on a wheel. Some hamsters can quickly chew their way through plastic toys or accessories. Check regularly for splinters or sharp edges caused by chewing. If a hamster habitually chews on a plastic accessory, remove it from the enclosure since it could become a choking hazard.

Chewing: The Right Foods Are Essential:

Since hamster’s teeth are always growing, they must be kept from getting too long by frequent chewing on the right kinds of food. Providing hamsters with hard chew blocks or toys to chew on is also important to keep them from becoming literally ‘too long in the tooth’ – if a hamster has nothing to chew, it will eventually be unable to close its mouth, and will starve. Wooden chew toys are designed especially for

Lighting: Hamsters have no special lighting requirements, other than a 12-hour on/12-hour off day/night cycle.
Temperature & Humidity: Regular Room Temperature Suits Them Fine: Hamsters are comfortable in temperatures between 60-90ºF. This means they’re usually very content at an average room temperature, needing no special heating or lighting other than a 12 hour day/night cycle.
Food & Diet: A Tablespoon A Day: Since hamsters are tiny critters, they aren’t going to eat anyone out of house and home. On average, a hamster needs about a tablespoon of premixed hamster & gerbil food a day, plus a small amount of fresh, washed and pesticide-free vegetables, such as broccoli and zucchini. (They should never be put on an all seed diet.) Uneaten vegetables should be removed before they spoil. Some hamsters will also enjoy timothy hay. All food should be stored in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions to avoid spoilage and contamination. Never keep premixed foods for longer than three months. Premixed foods can be given on a free feed basis, since most hamsters are not prone to excessive weight gain. If a hamster does gain weight, portions should be controlled. Hamsters will naturally hoard some of their food in their cages -they will stuff their cheek pouches with seeds, then hide them around the cage. Just because the bowl is empty doesn’t mean that there is no food available – if hamsters have hoarded, they will eat from their hoard if the bowl is empty. For the animal’s sense of well-being, it should be allowed to keep its hoarded food for a few days. Every week, however, the hoarded food should be removed for sanitary reasons.
Water: They Need Plenty Of Fresh Water: Hamsters need a constant supply of clean, fresh chlorine-free water. Use a cage-mounted small animal drinking bottle rather than a dish, choosing one with a chew-proof metal tip. Change the water daily, and check
for leakage - the water should only come out when the animal sips at the tube. Check also that the animal hasn’t caused a blockage by kicking substrate up the spout.
A Note About Water: All water given to this pet must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
Grooming: They're Clean Critters: Hamsters groom themselves regularly so they usually need
no grooming by their owner, though long-haired Teddy Bear Hamsters may sometimes need brushing with a soft toothbrush to remove shavings from their coats. Some hamsters like to take an occasional ‘dust bath’ in a shallow dish containing a layer of chinchilla dust an inch deep, but this is by no means essential. Discard the dust and wash the dish after each use.

Bright Idea:
Many hamsters also enjoy exploring the house in a plastic
exercise ball, but care must be taken when using these toys. No dogs or cats
should be in the room, and the exercise ball should never be used near steps
that it could roll down. Limit exercise ball time to about ten minutes to avoid
tiring or dehydrating the animal excessively.
 

How to Handle A Syrian Hamster:
Syrian Hamsters are easier to handle and less delicate than their dwarf cousins, but they
must still be handled gently. Most hamsters tend to be nervous when first picked up, and
may bite or urinate. Even tame hamsters sometimes nip if wakened from a sound sleep.
However, when handled regularly from an early age, many hamsters become quite tame –
offering a sunflower seed at each handling often helps the animal to bond with his keeper.
Owners must handle their hamster on a regular basis, or else the hamster will revert to its
normal nippy state. Hamsters in the store need to be handled daily so that the new pet
owner has a rewarding relationship.
Before even opening the enclosure, check that the room is safe for the hamster if it should
escape. Curious cats and dogs should be elsewhere in the house, electrical cords must be
picked up off the floor, and if possible the doors to the room should be closed. Never
handle a hamster over a hard surface – keep it close to the ground over a soft pillow, or
hold it above the enclosure.
Speak to the hamster in a soothing, gentle voice as you approach. A hamster will be less
startled if approached from the sides with both hands rather than from above. Scoop the
animal up with cupped hands, bringing one hand underneath so it is sitting on the palm.
Bring the other hand up over its back. Do not squeeze, even if the animal tries to squirm
out - a hamster can often be hurt more by an instinctive sharp squeeze than by a fall.
Always wash your hands well before picking up a hamster - the smell of food on a hand
sometimes tempts the animal to take a nibble.
 

Syrian Hamsters Around The House:
Hamsters are always on the lookout for a quick escape, and can scamper away under the
furniture in the blink of an eye. As already mentioned, the area must be hamster-proofed
before the enclosure is even opened, with cats and dogs elsewhere in the house, electrical
cords off the floor, and doors closed. Make sure to block off any nooks and crannies the
animal could wriggle into, and keep cleaning fluids and other hazardous materials out of
harm’s way. Above all, watch the animal closely at all times. Plastic hamster balls offer a
safer, more controllable way for the animal to explore his surroundings, but these too must
still be observed constantly. If a hamster should escape, close all doors, lay out a few
sunflower seeds as bait, and wait silently until the animal pops out to grab them.

 

Cleaning The Enclosure:
A hamster’s cage should be inspected daily. All uneaten food, droppings and soiled
bedding should be removed. The entire cage and all of its accessories should be cleaned,
and most of its bedding replaced every week. The cage can be wiped down, or if necessary
washed using hot, soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry with paper towels before adding
new bedding.
Mixing some clean old bedding in with the replacement will give the hamster an added
sense of security. Hamsters empty stored food from their cheek pouches and hide it away
for later, so the enclosure should be checked thoroughly for these little hidden larders, so
they can be removed during the weekly cleaning.
Periodically disinfect the cage with a product designed for small animals, or a bleach
solution, following the guidelines found earlier in this manual. Hamsters should be placed
in a secure “holding” cage or tank while their cage is cleaned. Always wear rubber gloves
when cleaning a hamster’s cage, and wash your hands afterward.

 

Common Syrian Hamster Ailments

Hamsters are prone to stress-induced health problems, usually caused by waking the animal
from a deep sleep too frequently. Symptoms of ill health may include weight loss, matted
fur, dull or runny eyes, shaking, runny nose or diarrhea. Whenever a hamster seems unwell,
seek veterinary advice. This is especially true if an animal has diarrhea – isolate him
immediately, disinfect the enclosure and call the veterinarian.

  • Wet Tail – This is a very contagious disease that can kill within 24 hours of the
    onset of its symptoms, which include diarrhea or wetness around the anus,
    listlessness and lack of appetite. Isolate the affected hamster immediately, and
    seek veterinary advice. Thoroughly disinfect the cage and all its contents
    immediately, and every two days thereafter. Sadly, once the symptoms are
    noticed it may be too late to save the animal. An outbreak of Wet Tail is usually
    a sign of unsanitary living conditions, and is highly preventable by good
    hygiene. Do not accept hamsters with Wet Tail into the store - these hamsters
    will all die and if let into the store, they will infect your healthy hamsters and
    you will lose your entire stock.
  • Tumors - Older hamsters sometimes develop odd lumps and bumps which are
    often benign, but can be cancerous. There is usually little that can be done to
    cure the animal, so it should just be made comfortable until the inevitable
    happens. Seek veterinary attention to determine an appropriate course of
    treatment for your hamster. One place that hamsters get tumors is in the cheek
    pouches, so be sure to check that your hamster is emptying his check pouches
    and that there are no lumps or bumps left.
  • Respiratory Problems and Allergies – Breathing problems are usually caused
    by the type of bedding or disinfectant in use, or by a leaking water bottle
    causing mildew to form. Though cedar and pine based products are notorious
    for causing respiratory problems, some individuals react badly to other
    substrates or cleaning materials. Make sure that you are using the proper
    bedding and thoroughly rinsing away all disinfectants. If your pet is showing
    symptoms, you need to seek veterinary advice. Unusually for most animal
    species, hamsters can also contract cold and flu viruses from humans, so
    persons with cold symptoms should avoid handling these animals.
  • Runny Eyes - Usually caused either by an eye infection or by food becoming
    stuck inside one or both of the cheek pouches, this condition is treatable. A
    veterinarian can diagnose the exact cause, and if necessary flush the cheek
    pouches out with warm water.
  • Strokes – Older hamsters can be prone to strokes, some surviving multiple
    strokes with few ill effects so long as they are still able to eat and drink. If an
    animal is found to be paralyzed on one side, keep him warm and comfortable,
    and keep environmental stress to a minimum.

Hibernation:
Syrian Hamsters can enter a state of hibernation when there is a sudden drop in temperature
or if water becomes scarce. The animal will be stiff and cold and may not seem to be
breathing, but if observed closely, its whiskers will be seen to twitch from time to time.
The hamster should be placed in a warm - not hot - room away from direct heat. As the
hamster revives over the next 30 minutes to an hour, it will begin to tremble, and twitch its
whiskers more frequently. When the animal gets back to normal, it should be left in peace
and quiet with access to plenty of food and water.

Why Do Hamsters Rub Themselves Against Their Cages?
Syrian hamsters have a scent gland on each hip. These glands secrete pheromones that are
used to attract mates and mark territories in nature. A hamster will rub his side against his
cage to mark it as his own. Hamsters will also scratch the sides with their feet so they can
mark the surface of the floor too.


Recommended Syrian Hamster Supplies:

  • A secure enclosure

  • Suitable substrate

  • Food bowl

  • Hamster food

  • Cage-mounted water bottle

  • Exercise wheel

  • Plastic hamster ball

  • Chew toys

  • Hamster potty with hamster-safe litter

  • A secure transport cage for use when going to the vet and during cage cleaning