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Guinea Pig
(Cavia porcellus)
Diet: Herbivorous
Adult Size: 1 1/2 to 4 lb
Lifespan: 3-6 years, but
some live longer
Native To: South America
Characteristics: Lively,
friendly, easy to tame, and
tolerant of handling
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Did
You Know:
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Compared to most mammals,
which are born naked and
blind, Guinea Pigs get off
to a fast start, coming into
this world with fur and
their eyes opened. Within a
day or two of birth, they’re
able to eat the same plant
matter as their parents. By
the age of four weeks,
they’re weaned from mother’s
milk. In the wild, they’re
capable of breeding
themselves after about three
months.
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Guinea Pigs are related to
the chinchilla, the
porcupine and the capybara,
a semi-aquatic South
American mammal weighing in
at 75-140 lb.
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The origin of the name
‘Guinea Pig’ is lost to time
– one theory is that when
the animals first arrived in
Europe in the sixteenth
century, people mistakenly
thought they came from
Guinea or Guyana. The
animals’ chubby, rounded
little bodies and the
squealing sounds they make
are responsible for the
‘pig’ part of their name.
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Look Out For This:
A Guinea Pig’s incisor teeth
grow constantly. If the teeth
are not worn
down by chewing, they will grow
too long and the animal will
starve. A
diet offering plenty of grass
hay wears down the teeth, and
wooden
chew toys can also be offered.
Excessively long teeth can be
trimmed by
a veterinarian. Guinea Pigs
require a daily source of
Vitamin C.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole sources of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care. |
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Things You Should Know About
Guinea Pigs |
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The Basics: |
Social animals, Guinea
Pigs are happiest living
in same sexed pairs.
However, two males
should be introduced at
a young age to increase
the likelihood that
they’ll get
along. If handled
regularly early in life,
Guinea Pigs become very
tame and enjoy human
contact. Mellow and
friendly animals, they
rarely bite or scratch.
When threatened, the
Guinea Pig’s first
response often is to
freeze. They can remain
in this motionless state
for up to 20 minutes.
Their other common
reaction is to panic and
run in circles
squealing. Naturally
fastidious animals,
Guinea Pigs will
regularly groom
themselves, using their
teeth, tongue and claws.
This friendly critter
isn’t shy about
expressing itself
vocally with various
squeals, grunts and
whistles. A pet Guinea
Pig needs -- and thrives
on -- human
companionship and
attention. |
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Enclosure:
Room to Play: |
Despite their relatively
small stature, Guinea
Pigs must have space to
move about and explore.
A single Guinea Pig’s
cage should be at least
14 inches high, by 18
inches wide by 25 inches
deep. Another rule of
thumb is to provide at
least 1
square foot of added floor
space for each
additional Guinea
Pig in an enclosure. (As
noted above, Guinea Pigs
are happiest when housed
in same-sex pairs, but
will also do well alone,
if given attention by
their human companions.) The
cage must be large
enough to contain a
secluded hide-away,
which is essential for a
Guinea Pig’s
psychological health, as
well as a food bowl and
toys. Cages that open
from the top are
preferable, since they
make it easier to pick
up the Guinea Pig safely
and are less difficult to clean.
A Guinea Pig’s enclosure
must be well ventilated.
Aquarium tanks must not
be used to house Guinea Pigs,
because they do not
provide adequate
ventilation. Poor air
circulation promotes
infectious diseases and
respiratory ailments.
Avoid wire mesh floors,
since they can cause foot and leg
sores. Slatted plastic
floors are acceptable,
but solid floors are
better. Commercially
available Guinea Pig
cages comprise a plastic
tub base with a
detachable wire top.
Never locate a Guinea
Pig’s cage in direct
sunlight or drafty
areas, including attics
and basements. The cage
should be place in a
quiet area that has a
consistent temperature
and is not accessible to
other pets. |
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Exercise:
Chewing and Other Indoor
and Outdoor Activities: |
Guinea Pigs will be
healthier, happier and
more alert if they’re
given the chance to get
outside their cage every
day for some play and
exercise. Letting the
Guinea Pig run free in a
room of the house under
the constant supervision
of its human companion
is fine, provided the
room is pocket
pet-proof. This means
that doors and windows
are secure, so there is
no way for the Guinea
Pig to get out or
another pet to get in;
that the space below or
behind heavy furniture
is blocked off; and that
electrical cords and
potentially toxic
household plants and
cleaners are not
accessible. An
alternative is to place
temporary playpen gating
in the room. The pen
should be at least 20”
high to prevent escapes.
Most Guinea Pigs will
welcome the opportunity
to explore the inside of
a paper bag or box when
let outside the cage.
For fun, place a plastic
child’s wading pool in a
room and fill it with
timothy hay, then watch
as the Guinea Pigs have
the time of their lives
burrowing. Inside the
cage, a Guinea Pig must
have constant access to
chew blocks, gnawing
logs or any other toy
that it can chomp on
safely. A Guinea Pig’s
teeth are constantly
growing, and must be
trimmed by chewing the
right foods and chew
toys. Platforms that
afford climbing
opportunities are always
appreciated by Guinea
Pigs as are tunnels that
they can crawl through.
Make sure that tunnels
are wide enough for the
pet to enjoy without
getting stuck. Large
fleece logs and blankets
can also be provided to
the Guinea Pig. All toys
and accessories must be
inspected for soiling or
damage caused by
chewing. Soiled or
damaged items should be
removed from the cage
and either cleaned or
discarded. Guinea Pigs
should not be given
exercise wheels, since
this can harm them.
Although Guinea Pigs
should not be kept
outdoors, they will
enjoy spending time in a
secure escape-proof
backyard pet pen under
the close and constant
supervision of their
human companion. Never
leave the Guinea Pig
alone outdoors – it can
soon dig its way out, or
be attacked by a passing
cat. If a Guinea Pig’s
pen is placed outdoors
for even a brief play
period, make sure that
the grass below it has
not been treated by
pesticides or other
chemical agents. |
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Bedding:
Must Have Shavings and
Hay: |
Guinea Pigs need around
an inch of an absorbent
substrate – recommended
materials includes as
aspen shavings or a
pelleted rodent bedding
on the floor of their
enclosure. Fine sawdust
can create too much dust
in the enclosure,
leading to eye
irritations and
respiratory infections.
Cedar and pine based
products should never be
used, since they can
cause severe respiratory
problems. Hay is
essential for a Guinea
Pig’s health and
well-being. Guinea Pigs
enjoy burrowing in hay,
plus chewing on hay will
help wear down their
constantly growing
teeth. Timothy, oat or
orchard hay are
preferable to alfalfa
hay, which has a high
fat content. Alfalfa hay
can be offered during
early growth periods and
to pregnant females.
Straw should never be
used in a Guinea Pig
enclosure, because its
sharp points can injure
the animal’s eyes. Since
hay does not control
odors and turns moldy
very quickly when it
gets wet or soiled, it
should be changed every
day or two. The
absorbent wood shavings
beneath the hay need to
be changed once a week.
If you use corn cob
bedding change it often
to protect against the
build up of bacteria and
mold. Also do not use
corn cob bedding with a
pet that may ingest
bedding. |
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Lighting: |
Guinea Pigs have no
special lighting
requirements, other than
a 12-hour on/12-hour off
day/night cycle. |
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Temperature & Humidity:
An Easy To Please Pet:
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Guinea Pigs have no
special heating or
lighting requirements,
and are generally happy
at an average room
temperature. A
temperature in the 65-70
degree Fahrenheit range
and a humidity of 50
percent are ideal. |
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Food
& Diet:
Plenty of Fiber and
Vitamin C: |
Guinea Pigs are the only
rodents that cannot
manufacture their own
Vitamin C, so they must
receive it completely
from their diet. Without
an adequate intake of
Vitamin C, a Guinea Pig
will develop scurvy.
Quality Guinea Pig
pellets are enriched
with Vitamin C, which is
one reason why they
should be a staple of a
pet’s diet. (Rabbit
pellets, and pellets
formulated for other
small animals should not
be given to Guinea Pigs,
because they are not
Vitamin C enriched.)
Vitamin C is rapidly
oxidized by heat, air,
and sunlight, so Guinea
Pig food should be
purchased fresh in small
quantities, in a package
that shows an expiration
date. Vitamin C that is
microencapsulated will
be more stable in the
food. In addition to
pellets, a Guinea Pig
should be given fresh
and washed leafy greens
such as spinach,
parsley, romaine
lettuce, carrots, green
bell peppers and turnip
greens on a daily basis.
Occasional fruit likes
oranges can be offered
in moderation, but be
sure all seeds are
removed, because they
can be toxic to a Guinea
Pig. Sweet fruits such
as grapes or raisins
should never be included
in the diet. Do not
attempt to provide the
Guinea Pig with adequate
Vitamin C by including
fruit in its diet. It is
far safer and healthier
to do this by providing
a Vitamin C tablet.
Avoid giving a Guinea
Pig cabbage, broccoli,
cauliflower and similar
vegetables, since they
cause gas. Iceberg
lettuce should also be
avoided, since it has
little nutritional
value. Vitamin C tablets
developed for Guinea
Pigs can also be added
to the diet. Many Guinea
Pigs will need a
supplemental form of
Vitamin C. (Consult your
vet.) Guinea Pigs are
strict vegetarians and
should not be given
meat. Unlimited hay
should be available to
the Guinea Pig at all
times. This includes
timothy, oat or orchard
hay, but alfalfa hay
should be avoided.
Growing Guinea Pigs
(under six months)
should be offered
unlimited pellets along
with their hay. After
six months, the size of
the pellet portion
should be cut back to
1/8 cup per day,
depending on the size of
the individual Guinea
Pig and the amount of
fresh produce served. A
Guinea Pig can be given
½ cup to one cup of
greens a day. It’s a
good idea to give Guinea
Pigs their food in two
or three feedings per
day, rather than in a
single meal. Use common
sense and follow the
advice of a veterinarian
to ensure that your
Guinea Pig receives an
adequate diet, but does
not become obese. |
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Water:
They Need
Plenty Of Fresh Water: |
Guinea Pigs need a
constant supply of
clean fresh
chlorine-free
water, most preferring a
cage-mounted drinking
bottle to a dish. Change
the water daily, and
check for leakage - the
water should only come
out when the animal sips
at the tube. |
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A
Note About Water:
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All water given to this
pet must be 100% free of
chlorine and heavy
metals. (Not all home
water filtration systems
remove 100% of the
chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. Do
not use distilled water,
which can cause severe
medical problems, since
it lacks minerals that
are essential to
important body
functions. |
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Grooming:
Long Hair
Means High Maintenance: |
Shorthaired Guinea Pigs
need brushing only once
a week, with a
fine-tooth comb or a pin
brush. Any rosettes
should be brushed in the
natural direction of
hair growth. Longhaired
Guinea Pigs need
thorough grooming every
day with a wide-tooth
comb and a slicker
brush. When the hair is
thoroughly detangled,
the hair is often set in
special balsa wood or
cotton wraps to keep it
clean and tidy. If the
hair is left unwrapped,
the animal will trip
over it, drag it through
soiled substrate and may
accidentally urinate on
it. All Guinea Pigs need
their nails trimmed
every 8 to 12 weeks.
Since the nail has a
blood
supply known as the
‘quick’ that can easily
be nicked, this task is
best left to a
veterinarian at first.
After observing the
correct way to trim the
nails, some owners
choose to trim their
pet’s nails at home, one
person holding the
animal wrapped in a
towel while a second
person trims the nails. |
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Bright Idea:
Pellets are an essential
part of a Guinea Pig’s diet, in
part because
they are enriched with Vitamin
C. However, pellets lose about
half of their
Vitamin C content within six
weeks of their production. For
this reason, pellets
should not be purchased in
quantity, and they should always
be stored in a
cool, dry place. Vitamin C
supplements and fresh vegetables
should be given
to a Guinea Pig along with
pellets. Do not use Vitamin C
water
supplementation, because the
vitamin value is lost within 20
minutes of
placement in the water bottle.
New fruits and vegetables should
be introduced to the diet
gradually to avoid
upsetting the digestive system.
The Second Time Around:
The Guinea Pig’s fibrous
diet of hay and vegetable matter
is hard to digest efficiently,
so it
has to eat its food twice to
extract all the nutrients it
needs. Guinea Pigs produce two
kinds
of droppings – brown, oval
shaped pellets, and a greenish
gooey dropping known as a cecal
or cecotrope. Guinea Pigs gain
more nutrition from eating
cecals than they do from eating
regular food, since these
partially digested droppings
contain beneficial bacteria
picked up
on their way through the
digestive system. These bacteria
produce essential fatty acids
and
vitamins that the animal cannot
obtain in any other way. Guinea
Pigs often eat cecals as
they are passed, so some owners
may never actually see them
lying around in the cage.
Finding a large amount of
uneaten cecals in the cage can
be the first sign of illness –
observe the animal carefully for
any other symptoms.
How to Handle A Guniea Pig:
As befits their gentle
nature, Guinea Pigs are delicate
animals with fragile bones. They
can
easily become injured if dropped
or mishandled. Approach a Guinea
Pig gently with two
hands. Place one hand gently but
securely under the chest,
restraining one front leg by
placing a finger in front of it.
Use your other hand to support
the Guinea Pig’s hindquarters.
Cradling the pet, pull him
closer to your body so he feels
safer. Never pick a Guinea Pig
up
by the shoulders or front of his
body, since this can cause
injury. Some Guinea Pigs have a
tendency to jump out of their
human companion’s hands when
being set down. To reduce
the risk of this behavior and
the injuries it can cause, lower
a Guinea Pig back into its
enclosure rump first, rather
than holding the animal parallel
to the ground.
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Cleaning The Enclosure:
Inspect the bedding daily,
picking out droppings and
removing uneaten food. Remove
and
replace hay every two days. Once
a week, empty out all the
bedding and thoroughly clean
the cage and accessories with
hot, soapy water using a
scrubbing brush. Rinse and dry
everything thoroughly before
putting in fresh bedding and
replacing the accessories. Never
use pine-scented products to
clean animal enclosures, since
they can cause respiratory
problems. Periodically disinfect
the cage with a product designed
for small animals or a
bleach solution, following the
guidelines found earlier in this
manual.
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Common Guinea Pig Ailments
Though Guinea Pigs seldom fall
sick, owners need to be aware of
their pet’s normal
behavior, paying close attention
to any subtle changes in
activity, eating habits or the
amount of droppings. If the
animal appears unusually
lethargic, is sneezing, coughing
or
has diarrhea, seek immediate
veterinary advice. Here are some
of the most common
illnesses suffered by Guinea
Pigs:
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Parasites – Excessive
scratching, scaly or
irritated skin, twitching,
bald spots
(mange) or tiny specks in
the fur are all indications
of a mite infestation.
Prompt
treatment is vital: a
veterinarian will prescribe
appropriate medication.
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Constipation and intestinal
blockage – constipation is
usually due to a diet with
insufficient liquid or
fiber, while intestinal
blockages, also known as
impactions,
are often caused by
swallowing substrate or
foreign bodies. If the
animal seems to
be passing fewer droppings,
or if blood is seen in the
urine or feces, consult a
veterinarian immediately.
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Respiratory Infections –
watery or dull eyes, runny
nose, wheezing or labored
breathing can all be signs
of respiratory infection.
Firstly, ensure the cage is
not
situated in a drafty
location, then raise the
room temperature a little.
Isolate the
animal from his cage mates,
and make sure he has
constant access to fresh
water. If
symptoms persist for more
than three days, seek
veterinary advice.
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Vitamin C Deficiency – also
known as Scurvy, this
serious condition can strike
within two weeks if a Guinea
Pig is deprived of Vitamin
C. Symptoms include
swollen joints, lethargy,
loss of appetite, and
bleeding gums. As soon as
these
symptoms are noticed, seek
veterinary advice. In
future, be sure that the
animal
receives sufficient Vitamin
C by including more fresh
fruits and vegetables to the
diet. Vitamin C has a very
short shelf life - fortified
Guinea Pig foods lose their
potency after 6 months, so
purchase them in small
quantities, and store in a
cool,
dark place.
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Recommended
Guinea Pig Supplies:
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Enclosure
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Vitamin C Enriched
Guinea Pig Food Pellets
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Vitamin C Supplement
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Chew Block
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Gnawing Log
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Tunnel
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Climbing Platform
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Absorbent, Dust-Free
Bedding
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Timothy Hay
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Metal Tipped Water
Bottle
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Food Bowl
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Comb and Pin Brush
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