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Dwarf
Hamsters
Campbell's Hamster (Phodopus
campbelli)
Roborowski's Hamster (Phodopus
roborowskii)
Winter White/Russion/Siberian
Hamster (Phodopus sungorus)
Chinese Dwarf Hamster (Cricetulus
griseus)
Diet: Herbivorous
Adult Size: 2-4"
Lifespan: 1-3 years
Native To: Desert Regions
of Asia
Characteristics:
Nocturnal, timid, can live in
pairs
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Did
You Know:
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Their larger cousin, the
Syrian Hamster, is a
solitary animal, but Dwarf
Hamsters
live happily in pairs,
enjoying the companionship
of others of their species.
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Like deer and many other
animals, hamsters have
harderian glands behind
their
eyes. Aside from lubricating
the eyes, these glands aid
in the detection of light
and
the maintenance of body
temperature.
-
Hamsters make a variety of
sounds to communicate with
one another. Many of
these sounds are ultrasonic,
so are not audible to the
human ear.
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Look Out For This:
All hamsters are naturally
desert and grassy plains
animals, so they do
not tolerate moisture well.
Campbell’s Hamster, for example,
excretes
concentrated urine to conserve
moisture. With this in mind,
it’s
important to keep a hamster’s
cage relatively dry. Spilled
water or
drinking bottle droplets should
be removed promptly. Always keep
a
hamster’s cage in a dry area of
the home, rather than a humid
spot
such as a basement.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole sources of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care. |
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Things You Should Know About
Dwarf Hamsters |
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The Basics: |
There are several
species of Dwarf
Hamster. Experts
disagree on many of the
species’ names, for
example some call
Campbell’s Hamster the
Djungarian Hamster,
while
others use that same
name for the Winter
White Hamster. To
complicate matters
farther, there are now
several hybrids of the
main dwarf hamster
species. However,
knowing the
exact scientific name of
a dwarf hamster isn’t
necessarily vital, since
care for all the dwarf
hamster breeds is very
similar. Dwarf hamsters
originate in various
regions of Russia,
Siberia, Mongolia and
China. Unlike Syrian
Hamsters, dwarf hamsters
live together in large
groups, digging vast
underground burrow
networks. It is
therefore possible – and
desirable – to keep more
than one dwarf hamster
in a cage.
Dwarf hamsters are
happiest when they have
a companion. Campbell’s,
Roborovski’s and Winter
White Hamsters are all
members of the
short-tailed dwarf
hamster family, but the
Chinese Hamster belongs
to the unrelated
rat-like hamster family.
The Chinese Hamster is
the only hamster that is
not legal in all 50
states, since they may
be regarded as “pests”
that pose a threat to
agricultural crops.
Campbell’s Hamsters are
unique in that the males
of the species help
raise the young. |
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Enclosure:
A House For a Mouse: |
Since they’re smaller
than the Syrian Hamster,
dwarf
hamsters can be kept in
enclosures designed for
mice. A secure wire cage
or a 10-20 gallon
aquarium with a
wire-mesh top is fine
for a pair of dwarf
hamsters. Plastic
tubular hamster habitats
are too big for dwarf
hamsters, since they
cannot maneuver
themselves through the
tunnels. However, dwarf
hamsters do well in the
newer and smaller
mouse-friendly tubular
enclosures. Plastic
tubular habitats mimic
the complex underground
tunnel networks
typically
constructed in the wild,
offering the animals a
more naturalistic
environment. Position
the enclosure well away
from drafts, heaters and
direct sunlight, and
check it thoroughly for
all possible means of
escape. |
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Bedding
: They Like To Burrow: |
Like the larger Syrian
Hamsters, dwarf hamsters
do well with
bedding that’s deep
enough to allow them to
satisfy their natural
burrowing instinct.
Providing an inch or two
of substrate throughout
most of the enclosure,
with a five or six
inch high bank at one
end helps to create an
interesting environment
for these pets. The
bedding should be
absorbent and dust free
- recommended materials
include wood shavings,
or a rodent substrate
made from reclaimed wood
pulp or pelleted paper.
Never use cedar or pine
based products, since
they can cause severe
respiratory problems.
Some dwarf hamsters can
be trained to use a
litter box - if it
becomes apparent that
more droppings are being
found in one part of the
cage than anywhere else,
a commercially available
‘hamster potty’ should
be placed there, filled
with hay or pelleted
newspaper cat litter.
Clay and clumping cat
litters must never be
used, since they can
cause digestive or
respiratory problems.
For a reluctant potty
trainer, placing a few
of the animal’s own
droppings inside the
litter box should help
it understand the box’s
purpose. Clean out the
litter box daily, and
disinfect it weekly. If
you use corn cob bedding
change it often to
protect against the
build up of bacteria and
mold. Also do not use
corn cob bedding with a
pet that may ingest
bedding. |
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Nesting Material:
Hamster
Hideaway: |
Naturally shy animals,
dwarf hamsters need a
comfortable place to
hide away during the
day. This is best
provided by placing a
nesting box with nesting
material in the cage.
Shredded white paper,
such as tissue or paper
towels provide a good
nesting material. The
nesting box should be
large enough for the
hamster to turn around
in, but not much bigger. |
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Exercise:
They Need To Exercise:
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Hamsters are naturally
active creatures, but
when confined in
a small cage they may be
unable to get enough
exercise. This can lead
to a condition where the
hamster becomes hunched
over, unable to raise
its head. The
traditional hamster
wheel is an ideal outlet
for a hamster’s energy -
a research study
found that hamsters
typically run five miles
a night on their
exercise wheels. Special
smaller sized wheels are
available for dwarf
hamsters - solid wheels
without open rungs are
kindest to the feet. A
hamster living in a
tubular plastic habitat
will get some exercise
from running, jumping
and climbing inside its
home, but it will also
need to run on a wheel.
Hamsters can quickly
chew their way through
plastic toys or
accessories. Check
regularly for splinters
or sharp edges caused by
chewing. If a hamster
habitually chews on a
plastic
accessory, remove it
from the enclosure since
it could become a
choking hazard. Some
dwarf hamsters will
enjoy exploring the
house in a plastic
exercise ball, but great
care should be taken to
avoid injuring the pet.
An exercise ball should
never be used in a room
with another pet, such
as a cat or dog. Nor
should exercise balls be
used in an area
where they could
possibly roll down
steps, since rolling
down even a single step
can prove fatal to a
hamster. A pet’s time in
an exercise ball should
be restricted to no more
than 10
minutes to avoid
dehydration, exhaustion
or injury. |
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Chewing:
The Right Foods Are
Essential: |
Since dwarf hamster’s
teeth are always
growing, they must be
kept from getting too
long by frequent chewing
on the right kinds of
food. Providing chew
toys is also very
important. If a dwarf
hamster has nothing to
chew, it will eventually
be unable to close its
mouth, and will starve.
Wooden chew toys are
designed especially for
rodents in a variety of
shapes, sizes and aromas
– some are even made in
fun food shapes. They
must be a staple feature
of every Dwarf Hamster’s
cage. Chew toys should
be inspected on a daily
basis, and replaced if
they’re soiled or
excessively worn. |
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Lighting: |
Hamsters have no special
lighting requirements,
other than a 12-hour
on/12-hour off day/night
cycle. |
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Temperature & Humidity:
No Special Needs: |
Hamsters are comfortable
in temperatures between
60-90ºF. This means
they’re usually very
content at an average
room temperature,
needing no special
heating or lighting
other than a 12 hour
day/night cycle. The
average humidity level
that should be obtained
in an enclosure should
be 30-50%. |
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Food & Diet:
The Same
Portion As Their Big
Cousin: |
Although they’re smaller
than Syrian Hamsters,
Dwarf Hamsters should
eat about the same
amount, because they
have a higher
metabolism. On average,
a Dwarf Hamster needs
about a tablespoon of
premixed hamster food a
day, plus a small amount
of fresh, washed and
pesticide-free and
vegetables, such as
broccoli and zucchini.
(Seeds should not make
up the entire diet.)
Uneaten vegetables
should be removed before
they spoil. Some
hamsters will also enjoy
timothy hay or alfalfa.
Never keep premixed
foods for longer than
three months. Premixed
foods can be given on a
free feed basis, since
most hamsters are not
prone to excessive
weight gain. If a
hamster does gain
weight, portions should
be controlled. Hamsters
will naturally hoard
some of their food in
their cages. For the
animal’s sense of
well-being, it should be
allowed to keep its
hoarded food for a few
days. Every week,
however, the hoarded
food should be removed
for sanitary reasons. |
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Water:
Keep It
Fresh, But Stay Dry: |
Hamsters need a constant
supply of clean fresh
chlorine-free water. Use a
cage-mounted small
animal drinking bottle
rather than a dish,
choosing one with a
chew-proof metal tip.
Change the water daily,
and check for leakage -
the water should only
come out when the animal
sips at the tube. It’s
essential to keep the
hamster’s cage dry to
reduce the risk of Wet
Tail and other diseases.
Check also that the
animal hasn’t caused a
blockage by kicking
substrate up the spout. |
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A
Note About Water:
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All water given to this
pet must be 100% free of
chlorine and heavy
metals. (Not all home
water filtration systems
remove 100% of the
chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. Do
not use distilled water,
which can cause severe
medical problems, since
it lacks minerals that
are essential to
important body
functions. |
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Grooming:
They're
Clean Critters: |
Hamsters groom
themselves regularly so
they usually need
no grooming by their
owner. Some hamsters
like to take an
occasional ‘dust bath’
in a shallow dish
containing a layer of
chinchilla dust an inch
deep, but this is by no
means
essential. Discard the
dust and wash the dish
after each use. |
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How to Handle A Dwarf Hamster:
Being smaller, Dwarf
Hamsters are more delicate, more
skittish and faster to escape
than
their Syrian cousins. They must
be handled very gently, under
the supervision of an adult.
Most hamsters tend to be nervous
when first picked up, and may
bite or urinate. Even tame
hamsters sometimes nip if
wakened from a sound sleep.
However, when handled regularly
from an early age, many hamsters
become quite tame – offering a
sunflower seed at each
handling often helps the animal
to bond with his owner.
Before even opening the
enclosure, check that the room
is safe for the hamster if it
should
escape. Curious cats and dogs
should be elsewhere in the
house, electrical cords must be
picked up off the floor, and if
possible the doors to the room
should be closed. Never
handle a hamster over a hard
surface – keep him close to the
ground over a soft pillow, or
hold him above the enclosure.
A hamster will be less startled
if approached from the sides
with both hands rather than
from above. Scoop the animal up
with cupped hands, bringing one
hand underneath so he
is sitting on the palm. Bring
the other hand up over his back.
Do not squeeze, even if the
animal tries to squirm out - a
hamster can often be hurt more
by an instinctive sharp
squeeze than by a fall.
Always wash hands well before
picking up a hamster - the smell
of food on a hand
sometimes tempts the animal to
take a nibble.
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Dwarf Hamsters Around The House:
Hamsters are always on the
lookout for a quick escape, and
can scamper away under the
furniture in the blink of an
eye. As already mentioned, the
area must be hamster-proofed
before the enclosure is even
opened, with cats and dogs
elsewhere in the house,
electrical
cords off the floor, and doors
closed. Make sure to block off
any nooks and crannies the
animal could wriggle into, and
keep cleaning fluids and other
hazardous materials out of
harm’s way. Above all, watch the
animal closely at all times.
Plastic hamster balls offer a
safer, more controllable way for
the animal to explore his
surroundings, but these too must
still be observed constantly. If
a hamster should escape, close
all doors, lay out a few
sunflower seeds as bait, and
wait until the animal pops out
to grab them.
Cleaning The Enclosure:
A hamster’s cage should be
inspected daily. All uneaten
food, droppings and soiled
bedding should be removed. The
entire cage and all of its
accessories should be cleaned,
and most of its bedding replaced
every week. The cage can be
wiped down, or if necessary
washed using hot, soapy water.
Rinse thoroughly and dry with
paper towels before adding
new bedding.
Mixing some clean old bedding in
with the replacement will give
the hamster an added
sense of security. Hamsters
empty stored food from their
cheek pouches and hide it away
for later, so the enclosure
should be checked thoroughly for
these little hidden larders, so
they can be removed during the
weekly cleaning.
Periodically disinfect the cage
with a product designed for
small animals, or a bleach
solution, following the
guidelines found earlier in this
manual. Hamsters should be
placed
in a secure “holding” cage or
tank while their cage is
cleaned. Always wear rubber
gloves
when cleaning a hamster’s cage,
and wash your hands afterward.
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Common Dwarf Hamster Ailments
Hamsters are very prone to
stress-induced health problems,
usually caused by waking the
animal from a deep sleep too
frequently. Symptoms of ill
health may include weight loss,
matted fur, dull or runny eyes,
shaking, runny nose or diarrhea.
Contact a veterinarian
promptly if a hamster seems ill.
This is especially true for
hamsters that have diarrhea;
they
should be isolated immediately,
and their enclosures should be
disinfected with a small
animal safe product or bleach
solution.
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Wet Tail - This highly
contagious disease can kill
within 24 hours of the onset
of its symptoms, which
include diarrhea or wetness
around the anus,
listlessness
and lack of appetite.
Isolate the affected hamster
immediately, and seek
veterinary advice.
Thoroughly disinfect the
cage and all its contents
immediately, and every two
days thereafter. Sadly, once
the symptoms are
noticed it may be too late
to save the animal. An
outbreak of Wet Tail is
usually
a sign of unsanitary living
conditions, and is highly
preventable by good
hygiene.
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Tumors - Older hamsters
sometimes develop odd lumps
and bumps which are
often benign, but can be
cancerous. Seek veterinary
attention to determine an
appropriate course of
treatment for your hamster.
One place that hamsters get
tumors is in the cheek
pouches, so be sure to check
that your hamster is
emptying his check pouches
and that there are no lumps
or bumps left.
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Respiratory Problems and
Allergies – Breathing
problems are usually caused
by the type of bedding or
disinfectant in use, or by a
leaking water bottle
causing mildew to form.
Cedar and pine based bedding
are notorious for
causing respiratory
problems. Unusually for most
animal species, hamsters can
also contract cold and flu
viruses from humans, so
persons with cold symptoms
should avoid handling these
animals.
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Runny Eyes - This condition
is usually caused either by
an eye infection or by
food becoming stuck inside
one or both of the cheek
pouches. A veterinarian
can diagnose the exact
cause, and if necessary
flush the cheek pouches out
with
warm water.
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Strokes – Older hamsters can
be prone to strokes, some
surviving multiple
strokes with few ill effects
so long as they are still
able to eat and drink. If an
animal is found to be
paralyzed on one side, keep
him warm and comfortable,
and keep environmental
stress to a minimum.
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Diabetes – Though it can
affect any species,
Campbell’s Hamsters are
particularly prone to this
serious disease. Usually
appearing at around 7-8
months of age, the first
symptoms include excessive
drinking and urination. As
the disease progresses, the
animal may be seen to
tremble, or even lapse into
a
coma. Seek immediate
veterinary advice. If a
hamster is diagnosed as
diabetic,
hamster treats containing
molasses or corn syrup
should not be given.
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Recommended
Dwarf Hamster Supplies:
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