Chinchilla
(Chinchilla laniger)

Diet: High Fiber, Low Energy
Adult Size: 12 inches, 1.5 pounds
Lifespan: Up to 20 years or more, but teens are more typical
Native To: Andes Mountains of South American
Characteristics: High strung, inquisitive, active, and shy                      
 

Did You Know:

  • Chinchillas were almost hunted into extinction by people who prized their luxurious
    coat, which is estimated to be 30 times softer than human hair. The hair on a
    Chinchilla’s coat is said to be finer that the filaments of a spider’s web. An
    individual Chinchilla hair is believed to be invisible to the naked eye. While
    humans have one hair per follicle, a Chinchilla has up to 60. There are about 20,000
    hairs per centimeter on their dense coats.

  • Like all rodents, Chinchillas’ teeth are always growing. If not trimmed through
    gnawing, these teeth would grow about 10 inches a year.

  • Chinchillas have relatively long pregnancies, averaging 111 days. They are almost
    “ready to go” at birth with teeth, open eyes and a full coat.
Look Out For This:
Unlike people, Chinchillas cannot sweat. This, coupled with
their thick coats, makes them prone to heatstroke. Room
temperatures in the mid 80s can be fatal to pet Chinchillas, so
they should be kept in air-conditioned rooms in the summer
months. Signs of overheating are bright red ears and general
lethargy. If a Chinchilla seems hot, you can put a covered pan or
tray of ice in its cage. When you do this, the Chinchilla will
gladly lie by the ice. (Be sure the pan or tray is covered so the
Chinchilla does not fall into the open water.)

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole sources of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.

 Things You Should Know About Chinchillas

The Basics:

A shy animal, the Chinchilla may take a while to be at ease around its human keepers. However, once trust has been established, it is a relatively easy animal to train, and can even be taught to use a litter box. Chinchillas will be most active at night or around dawn and dusk. They are quick, nimble animals that like to move around and jump, which makes them enjoyable to watch. Their most notable trait is their soft lush coat, which can be a variety of colors, but is most often a silvery gray. Females are slightly larger than males. Since Chinchillas reproduce easily, males and females should not be housed together. Chinchillas of the same sex can be housed together, if provided with enough space, but males may not get along. Very neat and fastidious animals, Chinchillas must be provided with dust baths.

Enclosure: The Bigger The Better:

The active and nimble Chinchilla should be provided with
as much enclosure space as possible. Aside from being excellent climbers, Chinchillas are also great jumpers, able to leap to heights of five feet, so their enclosures should offer plenty of vertical space and have a secure well-ventilated top.
A Chinchilla enclosure should measure at least 3’ x 3’ x 3’. Use wire cages, since a Chinchilla will chew through wood or plastic. Make sure the space between the wires is
small enough to prevent a Chinchilla from slipping through. (Please note: a Chinchilla’s fur coat makes the animal look much thicker than it is in reality.) Bar space should be no more than ˝ inches by 1 inch. This is especially important with young Chinchillas, which can be accomplished escape artists. Place a solid bottom on the floor to protect the Chinchilla’s feet. Having multiple level platforms with ramps in an enclosure is a good idea, since it provides climbing opportunities for the Chinchilla.
The enclosure should be placed in a quiet dry area of the home, away from drafts or direct heat sources. Never place a Chinchilla's enclosure in direct sunlight or in a damp area of
the home like a basement.

Hiding Places : They Need A Place To Hide:

Being nocturnal animals, Chinchillas must have ready access to snug and secure hiding places to sleep in during the day, and to find reassurance whenever they become frightened. Since Chinchillas are determined chewers, these hideouts should be inspected often for damage caused by gnawing.

Chewing: The Right Diet Is Essential

A Chinchilla’s teeth are always growing, so they must be kept from getting too long by frequent chewing on the right kinds of food. Providing Chinchillas with an ample amount of wooden small animal or bird toys is also essential. Pumice stones can also be added to the enclosure. Aside from needing to keep their teeth in shape, Chinchillas love to chew for the sheer enjoyment of it, so any chew blocks or toys provided will be very much appreciated. Chew toys should be inspected on a daily basis, and replaced if they’re soiled or excessively worn.

Exercise: They Thrive On Activity:

Chinchillas are energetic, athletic animals that thrive on
activity, so it's essential to include toys in their enclosure. Many Chinchillas enjoy exercise wheels. Always use solid wheels. Wire wheels with open spaces are likely to cause serious injuries. Stay away from soft plastic and rubber toys, since they can be too easily chewed into small pieces and ingested. Fruitwoods, like cherry, should also be avoided.
Lighting: Chinchillas have no special lighting requirements, other than a 12-hour on/12-hour off day/night cycle.

Temperature & Humidity: Hot and Humid Conditions Are Harmful:

The mountainous region where the Chinchilla originated is cool and dry. These conditions should be replicated in its
captive environment. A Chinchilla will not do well when the temperature reaches the upper 70 degrees Fahrenheit, or the humidity passes 40 percent. Ideal conditions for a Chinchilla
are temperatures in the 50 to 72 degree range, with low humidity. During hot summer days, a Chinchilla's enclosure should be kept in an air-conditioned room. Do not locate a Chinchilla's enclosure in the basement, since the conditions are likely to be too humid. As noted earlier, Chinchillas cannot sweat, so temperatures in the mid 80s can be fatal to
them. Signs of overheating are bright red ears and general lethargy. If a Chinchilla seems hot, you can put a covered pan or tray of ice in its cage. When you do this, the Chinchilla
will gladly lie by the ice. (Be sure the pan or tray is covered so the Chinchilla does not fall into the open water.) A Chinchilla that is suffering from heatstroke should be submerged in lukewarm water (keeping its head above the surface), then wrapped in a cool, damp towel and taken to a veterinarian immediately.

Bedding: No Cedar Bedding:

Place about 1.5-inches of bedding in the Chinchilla’s
enclosure. The substrate used should be a dustless and absorbent material -- aspen or paper pellets are recommended. Pine and cedar should be avoided since they can cause respiratory problems. Corn Cob should be avoided; enthusiastic eaters and chewers, Chinchillas will feed on this type of substrate, risking serious medical problems.
Food & Diet: They Have Very Specific Dietary Needs: Chinchillas will overeat if given the opportunity, and many will favor harmful fatty foods if given the opportunity, so it is the
responsibility of the keeper to see that they receive a healthy diet. There are three staples of a Chinchilla's diet: pellets, timothy hay and water. The pellets should be specially
formulated for Chinchillas and offered in daily portions of one to two tablespoons for adults. (Pellets developed for rabbits or other small animals should not be used for Chinchillas.) Feed pellets from a bowl, or a metal cup bin that attaches to the side of the cage. The attached cup is preferred because it will keep food cleaner. A metal cup should be used rather than plastic, which can easily be destroyed by a Chinchilla's chewing. If a food bowl is used, select a metal or crockery style product, rather than plastic. Timothy hay can be free-fed from a hayrack on the side of the cage. Since pellets alone will not provide the Chinchilla with adequate fiber, hay is an essential part of the Chinchilla's diet. Roughage from hay is essential to protect a Chinchilla from Tooth Root Elongation, a
potentially fatal condition. Small amounts of treats can be offered to Chinchillas once or twice a week. These include
a peanut, or a piece of a carrot. Surviving on dry grasses and bark in the barren Andes Mountains, Chinchillas have developed unique digestive systems with long digestive tracts
and large stomachs that require high fiber and relatively low energy diets. For this reason, fatty and sugary foods can be very harmful to a Chinchilla.
Water: Use Bottles Instead Of Bowls: Clean, fresh chlorine-free water should always be available to a Chinchilla. New Chinchillas should be given water from a bowl, but most will eventually learn to drink from a bottle. Offering Chinchillas water from a bottle is preferable, because it’s more sanitary. A bottle with a metal spout should be used, because the Chinchilla's constant chewing will quickly reduce a plastic bottle to rubble. The water bottle should be introduced to the enclosure while the animal is still drinking from a bowl. Gradually, most Chinchillas will learn to accept the bottle. The keeper should make sure that the Chinchilla is accepting water from the bottle before removing the bowl.
A Note About Water: All water given to this pet must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
Grooming: They Need A Dust Bath 2-3 Times A Week: Grooming is an important part of the Chinchilla's normal routine. They remove excess oil and debris from their coats by taking "dust baths," in which they roll around in ash. The keeper must provide the pet Chinchilla with a dust bath two or three times a week. Do this by placing one inch of commercially prepared "Chinchilla dust" in a litter pan, set
up in a bathtub or some other easy-to-clean area of the home. Place the Chinchilla near the pan, and allow him to roll around in it for 15-20 minutes. Always discard the dust and clean the pan after the bath. Pans of dust should never be left in the Chinchilla's enclosure. Some Chinchillas will also like to have their coats groomed by their keepers with a soft brush.

Bright Idea:
ALWAYS INSPECT HAY BEFORE OFFERING IT TO A
CHINCHILLA. Make sure the hay a Chinchilla is given is fresh and free of
dust as well as insecticides. Chinchilla pellets should also be bought in
smaller quantities, since they are more nutritious when fresh.

How to Handle A Chinchilla:
Before even opening the cage, make sure the room the Chinchilla is in is safe and doesn’t
provide an easy chance to escape. Curious cats and dogs should be elsewhere in the house,
electrical cords must be picked up off the floor, and if possible the doors to the room
should be closed. Do not handle a Chinchilla over a hard surface, and if possible hold the
animal close to the ground.
Gentle animals that rarely bite, Chinchillas are relatively easy to handle. Approach a
Chinchilla calmly and speak to it gently. Approach the animal from the sides, cupping it in
your hands, making sure to support its hindquarters. Then move the Chinchilla close to
your body to provide it with an added sense of security. Never grab a Chinchilla by the tail
or scruff of the neck, and never frighten the animal by approaching it from above. Avoid
grabbing Chinchillas too tightly, since they have delicate rib cages, and do not grasp them
by the coat. Grabbing the Chinchilla by the coat will result in a “fur slip”; this may result in
a large amount of fur loss. The fur will grow back, but if this happens in the store, few will
want to purchase a Chinchilla without a full coat.
Chinchillas will throw off hair as a defense mechanism when they feel attacked. This is
adaptive behavior used in nature when a predator is about to bite, but it will result in
undesirable shedding in a pet Chinchilla that is handled too roughly. When the keeper
remains relaxed and conveys a sense of being in control, the Chinchilla will feel more at
ease being held. Always wash your hands after playing with or handling a Chinchilla.
 

 

Cleaning The Enclosure:
A Chinchilla's enclosure should be inspected daily. All uneaten food and hay should be
removed, as should wet or soiled toys and substrate, plus any debris or fecal matter. A
water bottle that has food particles or other matter floating in it should be taken out, and
washed and rinsed thoroughly with warm soapy water. Food bowls that have been
defecated or urinated in should be replaced, then washed and rinsed thoroughly. Damaged
toys or exercise wheels should be removed and replaced.
Wet substrate must be removed immediately, since it is a breeding ground for a variety of
diseases. Under normal circumstances, all of the substrate in the enclosure should be
replaced twice a week. The same rule of thumb applies to litter, if the Chinchilla has been
trained to use a litter pan.
Every week the enclosure and all of its toys and accessories (including its dust bath pan)
should be cleaned using a scrubber brush with warm soapy water, and rinsed thoroughly.
The enclosure and its accessories should be allowed to dry completely before being
reintroduced to the Chinchilla. A temporary enclosure should be used for the Chinchilla
during the cleaning period.
Metal enclosures should be disinfected every 2-3 months with a product designed for small
animals, or a bleach solution, following the guidelines found earlier in this manual.
Chinchillas should be placed in a secure “holding” cage or tank while their cage is cleaned.
Always wear rubber gloves when cleaning a Chinchilla’s cage, and wash your hands
afterward.

 

Chinchilla Around The House:
Being active animals, Chinchillas will appreciate and benefit from playtime outside their
enclosure. However, they must be confined to a "safe" room and supervised closely during
these outings. A Chinchilla given the freedom to roam freely will wreak destruction upon a
house because of its incessant chewing. The free roaming Chinchilla will also be a danger
to itself, because it can chew painted or varnished woods, electrical cords or other harmful
material, in addition to ingesting household poisons or getting itself stuck in small crevices.
A Chinchilla-safe room is one in which electrical cords are inaccessible, where cleaning
agents and other household poisons are put away, where any small openings are securely
covered, where doors and windows are closed, and most of all, where the pet can be closely
watched by its human companion.

Bright Idea:
HANDLE AND PET A YOUNG CHINCHILLA FREQUENTLY. A
Chinchilla will develop its basic sense of trust early in life, so it's very
important that young animals grow accustomed to interacting with people.
New Chinchillas should be petted and talked to in a soft sweet voice several
times a day. However, be careful to approach a Chinchilla gently and
gradually, never forcing yourself on the animal.
 

Common Chinchilla Ailments
 Overall, Chinchillas are hardy animals, with an exceptionally long lifespan for a small
rodent. Gastrointestinal disorders are the most common problem veterinarians encounter
with Chinchillas. These issues are most often brought on when people over-indulge their
pets by offering them too many sweet and fatty treats. A responsible keeper must
understand that Chinchillas have a very specialized digestive system, because of the
demands placed on them in their barren mountainous natural environment. It is critically
important that their diet be high in fiber and low in fat and sugar. Here are some common
Chinchilla ailments:
 

  • Gastrointestinal Disorders -- Anorexia, painful stomachaches, diarrhea, bloat, fatty
    liver, fecal impaction, telescoping of the intestines and similar ailments all can arise
    when the Chinchilla is given an imbalanced diet, or subjected to a sudden change in
    diet. Overcrowding and stress also can cause gastrointestinal problems. Severe
    symptoms will require veterinary intervention.
  • Heatstroke -- Hailing as they do from a mountainous region, Chinchillas have
    developed to thrive in moderate temperatures. Sustained exposure to temperatures
    over 80 degrees Fahrenheit can cause heatstroke. Signs of heatstroke include
    panting, sluggishness and an inability to remain standing. Chinchillas that exhibit
    these symptoms should be given a cool water bath, and a veterinarian should be
    consulted promptly.
  • Teeth Overgrowth (Slobbers, or Tooth Root Elongation) -- When a Chinchilla's
    teeth are not worn down properly, they become overgrown and develop sharp
    edges. It is important for Chinchillas to have a thorough oral exam yearly by a
    qualified veterinarian. Teeth problems are best dealt with early before they cause
    serious medical problems. If you wait until the following signs are seen: weight
    loss, a seeming lack of interest in food, and drooling progressing to elongated tooth
    roots, the Chinchilla may be too debilitated to survive treatment. Veterinary
    treatment involves tooth trimming and the administration of antibiotics for
    abscesses. Providing a Chinchilla with free choice hay and limiting pellets helps
    protect against this disease. The roughage in the hay will make it more likely that
    the animal's teeth wear down normally.
  • Bone Fractures -- Chinchillas have a relatively delicate skeletal system, and they
    must be handled with care to avoid bone fractures. Treatment must be provided by a
    qualified veterinarian.
  • Enteritis -- This is a relatively common intestinal infection among Chinchillas.
    Symptoms include loss of appetite, lethargy, discomfort and, in some cases,
    paralysis. Many afflicted Chinchillas will also exhibit diarrhea. A veterinarian
    should be contacted at once, since early treatment is essential to countering this
    disease. Typically, a veterinarian will put the Chinchilla on antibiotic therapy.
  • Pneumonia -- Damp and overcrowded conditions are a breeding ground for this
    disease. Veterinarians diagnose it with radiographs and treat it with antibiotics.


Recommended Chinchilla Supplies:

  • A secure enclosure with multi-level platforms and climbing ramps

  • Hiding areas

  • Chew blocks and wood

  • Toys such as hard plastic balls or tennis balls

  • An exercise wheel

  • A water bottle with a metal spout

  • A food bowl or bin that attaches to the side of the cage

  • A hayrack that attaches to the side of the cage

  • Chinchilla pellets

  • Timothy Hay

  • Litter and small litter pan

  • Chinchilla dust and a dust bath pan

  • A soft brush

  • A suitable substrate

  • Disinfectant

  • A secure transport cage