The Basics:

The White-Lipped Treefrog is named for the distinctive cream or white stripe that runs along its lower lip. Other than that, this frog is usually bright green, but it can change colors to reddish brown, olive, deeper greens and even pink. The underside of the frog is white and its skin is brown. Its skin also is covered by glandular secretions that keep it moist and deter predators. The hind feet of the White-Lipped Treefrog are webbed and its front feet are partially webbed. With proper care, this large nocturnal frog can live very long in captivity, which has helped make it popular as a pet. In nature, it is found in a wide range of environments. Females reach a greater size than males. These sociable frogs do well in groups.

Enclosure:
They Need Vertically Oriented Tank:

Active arboreal (tree climbing) amphibians, White-Lipped Treefrogs need an enclosure that offers ample opportunities to climb. Their enclosures should have more height than width, with 30-gallon aquarium tanks being the minimal acceptable size for two adults, and 40-gallons the minimal for four adults. A secure screen top should be a part of every enclosure to prevent escapes and provide ventilation. Since these are active frogs with large appetites, they will produce an above average amount of waste, so enclosures and furnishings that can be cleaned easily should be selected. Climbing branches and hiding areas are essential to the well-being of the White-Lipped Treefrog. Branches should be as wide as the diameter of the frog’s body. Cork and logs can also be used to create secluded areas, as can live or artificial plants. Monstera, philodendron and other nontoxic sturdy broad-leafed potted
plants are recommended, since they can support a large White-Lipped Treefrog. Plants acquired from nurseries must be cleaned and re-soiled to remove toxic fertilizers. Take
potted plants out of the enclosure whenever it is cleaned; their leaves should be washed with chlorine-free water, since they tend to collect waste. Also remove waste from the topsoil of potted plants. The top two inches of this soil should be replaced monthly. Be sure to guard against the frog rubbing against the bottom of the enclosure (see “Look Out For This”
below).

Substrate:
Since They Aren't Neat, Select An Easy To Clean Material:

White-Lipped Treefrogs can make a mess, so it’s a good idea to select a disposable substrate such as unprinted paper, or one that is easily cleaned. Natural bark, coconut fiber or moss substrates are also acceptable. Avoid aromatic wood substrates since they can cause serious and even fatal health risks. Substrates must be inspected daily, so soiled material
can be removed. Reptile carpet substrate should not be used with White-Lipped Treefrogs, since its rough surface can irritate a frog’s skin.

Temperature:
They Must Be Kept Warm:

A White-Lipped Treefrog likes things a little warmer than many other treefrogs. Its enclosure should be 80-85º Fahrenheit during the day and in the 70s at night. However, care should be taken not to overheat the enclosure. Place heat source over one side of the enclosure rather than the middle, since this will allow the frog to move to regulate body temperature. Be sure that climbing branches at different heights cover the width of the tank, since this will also aid in providing the frog with a thermal gradient. Care must be taken when using external lamps not to overheat the enclosure. Never guess the temperature. Position two thermometers in the enclosure at branch level where the frog spends most of its time, one thermometer should be placed near the heat source, and the other in a cooler section of the tank. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Lighting:
UVB Exposure Is Essential To Their Health:

A 12-hour on/off light cycle is essential to the health of White-Lipped Treefrogs. Too much light exposure will be
detrimental to the well-being of these nocturnal animals. Although they are nocturnal, White-Lipped Treefrogs must be exposed to UVB rays on a daily basis. This exposure should
be provided through the use of a fluorescent lamp designed specifically for a terrarium that emits light in the 300-400nm range. The fluorescent bulb should be replaced every
six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. White-Lipped Treefrogs should never
be exposed to direct sunlight, since this will result in overheating and dehydration. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

This pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used, always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
A Variety of Insects Suits Them:

White-Lipped Treefrogs are voracious eaters who
will accept a wide variety of insects. Commercially available crickets, roaches, super mealworms, trevo-worms and flies are acceptable feeders. Insects should be gut loaded
(fed a nutrition rich diet and dusted with supplement) for 48 hours before being offered. A pinkie mouse can be offered to a White-Lipped Treefrog once a month, but not more often, because of its high fat content. Feed White-Lipped Treefrogs every other day, offering 18-24 crickets per meal. About 6 crickets every day to every other day for juveniles. Use common sense and body condition/weight of the individual frog to determine feeding schedule. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

Water & Humidity:

Like all frogs, White-Lipped Treefrogs require a relatively high level of humidity, around 50-percent. This can be maintained by misting the frog daily with chlorine free water and keeping a large bowl of clean, fresh filtered water free of chlorine
and heavy metals in the enclosure. Use a hygrometer to measure humidity levels inside the enclosure. Part of the enclosure should be kept dry to provide a drying area for the
frog. The water in this bowl should be shallow. Make sure that the water bowl affords the frog with an easy “escape route.” Maintaining water levels well below the rim of the
bowl will minimize spillage to keep the enclosure dryer and more sanitary. White-Lipped frogs will visit their water bowls several times a day to re-hydrate themselves.