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Rose Hair
Tarantula
(Grammostola rosea)
Habitat:
Terrestrial scrubland
Diet: Carnivorous
Adult Size: 3-5 inches
Lifespan: 5 years for males,
three times longer for females
Native To: South America |
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Did
You Know:
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If a Rose Hair Tarantula
loses a leg, it will grow a
new one over a period of
time
as it molts.
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A female will produce up to
500 or more in a single
large egg sac.
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When angry or threatened,
Rose Hair Tarantulas will
flick their abdominal hairs.
These hairs can cause
painful irritations to an
intruder’s skin and eyes.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole source of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian trained in caring
for reptiles and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care.
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What You Should Know About
Rose Hair Tarantulas |
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The Basics: |
Also known as the
Chilean Rose Tarantula,
since this is where most
specimens have been
found, this attractive
animal is one of the
most popular terrarium
pets. It is relatively
large, with a leg span
reaching up to five
inches and colorful; its
dark
body covered with fine
pink or reddish-orange
hairs. A hardy animal,
it does well in
captivity, provided it
receives proper care.
Although they’re
considered docile by
Tarantula standards,
they should be handled
carefully and only when
necessary, since they
can bite and flick their
hairs. Like all
Tarantulas, they are
aggressive toward one
another, and so should
never be housed
together. Most specimens
sold through the retail
pet trade are captive
bred. A nocturnal
hunter, the Rose Hair
Tarantula can be found
in scrublands in its
natural environment. |
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Enclosure:
They Do Fine
In Relatively Small
Spaces
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Rose Hair Tarantulas are
relatively docile and
inactive, so they will
do quite well in a
10-gallon tank. It is
important to house
only one specimen in
each tank, since they
are aggressive toward
one another. These
spiders do not need a
lot of height in their
enclosures, so their
tanks should be
horizontally oriented. A
hollow log or cork bark
should be placed in the
enclosure to provide a
hiding area. Artificial
vines or plants can be
provided for climbing,
and an added sense of
security. |
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Substrate:
Burrowing
Opportunities Are
Important To Them: |
Roughly two inches
of substrate should
cover the floor of
the Rose Hair
Tarantula’s
enclosure to provide
an opportunity for
them to retreat to a
shallow burrow.
Sterilized potting
soil, sphagnum moss,
orchid bark, coconut
fiber and commercial
reptile bark make
good substrate
choices. The
substrate should be
kept slightly moist
(use chlorine-free
water to moisten) to
assist in
maintaining humidity
levels, but water
should not be
allowed to collect
on its surface,
since this can harm
the Tarantula’s
legs. Pine, cedar
and other aromatic
woods should never
be used as
substrates. Inspect
the substrate daily,
and change it
regularly to prevent
the build up of
bacteria.
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Temperature:
They Like
It Warm But Not To Hot: |
A consistent temperature
between 75 and 83
degrees Fahrenheit works
well for Rose Hair
Tarantulas, but they can
tolerate lower
temperatures. In many
cases, this can be
maintained by
controlling ambient room
temperature. If
necessary an under tank
heat pad, positioned
below one end of the
tank can be used.
However, care must be
taken not to overheat or
“dry out” the enclosure.
The under tank pad
should be controlled by
a thermostat or
rheostat. Always follow
manufacturer’s
instructions carefully
when using
heat-producing products.
Since maintaining the
proper temperature is so
critical to the health
of the Rose Hair
Tarantula,
it should never be
guessed. A thermometer
should be placed about
two inches over the
surface in the middle of
the tank. Important -
see the Note About
Day/Night Light Cycles
and Heating below. |
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Lighting:
They Should Not Be
Overexposed To Light: |
Rose Hair Tarantulas
need a regular
photoperiod of about 8
hours of light daily. It
is important to avoid
exposing them to
more prolonged periods
of light, or light that
is too bright (their
enclosures should never
be put in direct
sunlight.) Artificial
light should be
controlled through a
timer. For nighttime
viewing use a low
wattage red lamp.
Important - see the
Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating: |
This pet must have distinct day and
night periods in their enclosure to
maintain their biological rhythms. (See
the lighting entry above for the
specific length of this animal’s
day/night cycle.)
The day period must be light; and night
must be dark. A timer
should be used to set day/night periods.
If a heat source is required to maintain
correct nighttime temperatures, use heat
mats or strips mounted below or on the
side of the tank, infrared heat lamps,
ceramic heat emitters, or a combination
of these products. This will allow the
enclosure to be heated while remaining
dark. Follow directions carefully with
all products. If ceramic heat emitters
are used, always choose fixtures with
porcelain or ceramic sockets and to
protect against fires do not place them
by dry wood or flammable fabrics.
Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out
of the reach of children and all pets,
including dogs and cats. |
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Diet:
They Eat
Crickets: |
The mainstay of a Rose
Hair Tarantula’s diet
should be gut loaded
crickets. Young
spiderlings should be
given pinhead crickets.
Grasshoppers and locusts
are also good choices.
Live insects should be
offered to the Tarantula
two times a week. Adults
and juveniles should be
offered 3-6
appropriately sized
crickets per meal. |
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A
Note About Gut Loading |
Feeding crickets a
nutritious diet will
pass on vital nutrients
to your reptile. When
reptiles eat these
insects they are able to
absorb the nutrients.
This is why it is
important to gut load
crickets at least 48
hours before offering
them to a reptile.
Commercial cricket foods
provide a convenient way
to gut load crickets.
(Always follow
manufacturer’s
directions.) Crickets
should also be provided
with water, preferably
in the form of oranges
or a commercial water
gel product designed
specifically to hydrate
feeder insects. Putting
a shallow dish of water
in the cricket holding
tank will result in
insects drowning and
promote the spread of
bacteria.
You can also create your
own gut-loading formula.
Our vet recommends a mix
of ground up dog food,
cereal and fresh greens
with oranges or a
commercial gel for
water. |
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Water
& Humidity: |
A water bowl filled with
cotton or filter wadding
equal to the size of the
Tarantula’s body must be
provided for drinking.
(Always use
chlorine-free water.)
The Tarantula will drink
by climbing onto the
filter and sipping water
through the base of its
fangs, which serve as
its mouth. It is
essential that humidity
levels be maintained at
60-75%. When the
humidity level falls
into the low 50s, it
poses a serious health
risk to the Rose Hair
Tarantula. Humidity
levels can be maintained
through misting and the
use of a water bowl.
Always be careful not to
over humidify an
enclosure. Water will
not build up on the side
of the enclosure or the
surface of the
substrate, when humidity
levels are maintained
properly. Use a
hygrometer to measure
humidity levels. |
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How to Handle A Rose Haired
Tarantula:
Although peaceable next to
many other Tarantulas, this
spider can inflict painful,
slightly
venomous bites, in addition to
releasing stinging abdomen
hairs. For this reason, it is
best
to treat the Rose Hair Tarantula
as a pet to observe, rather than
handle. When it is
necessary to handle this spider
always wear gloves and
protective eyewear, the latter
to
guard against flipped hairs
irritating your eyes. When
lifting, cup the Rose Hair
Tarantula
gently in your hands with its
legs folded under its body.
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Look Out For This:
Be careful not to drop a Rose
Hair Tarantula. A fall of even a
few
inches can crack its protective
exterior skeleton (exoskeleton).
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Recommended
Rose Hair Tarantula Supplies:
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A 10-gallon enclosure
with a secure top
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Hiding places in the
form of a log or cork
bark
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Artificial plants and
vines
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A suitable substrate
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A light source
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A red light for night
viewing
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A light timer
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A under tank heat pad
(if necessary)
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A thermometer
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A thermostat or rheostat
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A hygrometer
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A
spray mister
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