The Basics:

The famous tomato red eyes from which this frog gets its name make it one of the most attractive amphibian pets. The colorful eyes also serve an important survival purpose in nature. When this frog sleeps during the day, its eyes are covered by a membrane. If a predator awakens the frog, it will open its eyes wide. The bright red color startles the attacker, buying the agile Red-Eyed Treefrog time to hop away. The long limbs and suction pad toes make the Red-Eyed Treefrog more suited for climbing than swimming. It spends most of its time in trees and is less comfortable on the ground. A communal animal, it does better when kept in groups rather than alone. Females are about 33% larger than males.

Enclosure:
Tall Tanks Suit Them Best:

Red-Eyed Treefrogs love to climb, so they need a vertically oriented tank with plenty of climbing branches and sturdy broad leafed nontoxic plants such as philodendron, pothos and anthurium. Plants acquired from nurseries must be cleaned and re-soiled to remove toxic fertilizers. Take potted plants out of the enclosure whenever it is cleaned; their leaves should be washed with chlorine-free water. Also remove waste from the top soil of potted plants. A pair of Red-Eyed Treefrogs should have at least a 20-gallon aquarium tank, with 10 gallons of size being added for each additional frog. The tank should be securely covered with a top that's half screen (for ventilation) and half glass to retain humidity. Climbing branches should be arranged diagonally in the tank to make it easy for the frogs to climb.

Substrate:
They Need Material That Supports High Humidity Levels:

The Red-Eyed Treefrog's enclosure should be lined with about 4 inches of a substrate that can support high humidity levels such as sphagnum moss or orchid bark. Damp towels (use chlorine-free water to dampen) are also an acceptable substrate. Avoid aromatic wood substrates since they can cause serious and even fatal health risks. Substrates must be inspected daily, so soiled material can be removed.

Temperature:
Room Temperature Typically Works for Them:

The Red-Eyed Treefrog needs a daytime temperature of about 75-85º Fahrenheit during the day, and low 70s at night. This can often be achieved by regulating the temperature in the room housing the enclosure, but care must be taken to avoid overheating in the summer. If an external heat source is needed to provide heat, it shouldn't be larger than a 20-watt incandescent bulb. Even in this case, the temperature must be monitored carefully to be sure it doesn't rise too much. Aside from overheating the frog, an external heat source can result in dangerously low humidity levels. Never guess the temperature. Position two thermometers in the enclosure at branch level where the frog spends most of its time, one thermometer should be placed near the heat source, and the other in a cooler section of the tank. An enclosure should never be positioned in direct sunlight. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Lighting:
They Should Have UVB Exposure:

Although they sleep during the day, Red-Eyed Treefrogs are exposed to ultraviolet rays in their natural habitats. Red-Eyed Tree Frogs should be exposed to supplemental low-output UVB light. This can be accomplished by using a fluorescent lamp designed for frog terrariums. The fluorescent bulb should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

This pet must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used, always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
Insects Are Their Staple:

In nature Red-Eyed Treefrogs are opportunistic nocturnal
hunters that will feed on a variety of insects and invertebrates, and will even eat other, smaller frogs. Captive specimens do well on a steady diet of gut loaded insects dusted with a supplement, primarily crickets. Adults should be fed 3-6 crickets every 2-3 days. Growing juveniles should be given as many crickets as they can consume on a daily basis. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplements. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Follow product label directions when applying supplements, and avoid over-supplementing food.  Too much calcium can contribute to calcification and indirectly to gout. The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this pet. Our veterinarian recommends dusting insects with a plain calcium supplement every other feeding to every feeding. (Avoid using a calcium supplement with added phosphorous, unless specifically directed by your veterinarian, since this can promote kidney disease.) Our veterinarian also recommends dusting insects with a D3 supplement once a week and a vitamin supplement two times a month. This is only one recommendation, consult your veterinarian for specific directions on supplementing your pet’s food, since there are many variables that go into determining the best supplementing regimen for a given animal.  

Water & Humidity: