Pine Snake
(Pituophis melanoleucus)
Adult Size: 6 feet    Lifespan: 15-20 years

Did You Know:

  • The Pine Snake is closely related to the gopher snake and bull snake, and has many of the same care requirements. Like its close cousins, the Pine Snake will vibrate its tail, issue a loud hiss that sounds like a rattlesnake's, and flatten its head to scare off would-be predators when threatened.

  • Pine Snakes can catch more than one rodent at a time. They do this by immobilizing a prey animal by pressing it against a wall or burrow with the coils of their tails.

  • The Pine Snake will dig its own burrow for egg laying.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

What You Should Know About Pine Snakes

They Grow To An Impressive Size:

If anything, Pine Snakes are a little larger than gophers.
An adult can reach 9+ feet depending on the species. The most typical size is roughly 6-feet.

They Are Fairly Long-lived:

With proper care a Pine Snake can live into its twenties,
depending on the species, but a lifespan reaching the teens is probably more common.

Enclosure:
Their Housing Requirements Are Basic:

Pine Snakes should be kept in an enclosure that's at least the size of a 30-gallon aquarium tank, but larger quarters are
preferable, and for some species necessary. Like most snakes, pines are escape artists, so their enclosures should have a secure lid that provides adequate ventilation. Relatively
shy and secretive, Pine Snakes need a place to "get away from it all," so a hide box or two must be included in their enclosure. Being housed in an "open" enclosure with no place to hide will cause undue stress for a Pine Snake, and could lead to illness. Ideally, Pine Snakes should have two hide boxes, one in the basking area and one in the cooling area.
Sturdy climbing branches also make a welcome addition to the Pine Snake’s enclosure
Substrate:
They Like Substrate They Can Burrow Into: 		Pine Snakes are one of the great burrowers of the snake world, so they will like a substrate that they can work their way into. Good examples of this are commercial potting soil (soil taken from the backyard will house bacteria that can harm a snake), and cypress mulch. However, it is not
essential to provide a burrowing substrate, if the snake's enclosure has a hide box. Other suitable substrates include butcher's paper, indoor/outdoor carpeting. As a precaution
against a Pine Snake ingesting chips or shavings, they should not be fed directly on a substrate, with the exception of paper or carpeting. Instead, it’s a good idea to feed this snake in a separate container with no substrate. Although they have many endearing qualities, pines can create a mess, so remove wet or soiled substrate regularly.

Temperature:
Moderate Temperatures Suit Them:

Ambient temperatures of 75-80 Fahrenheit are ideal for Pine Snakes. A heat pad should be place under one-third of their tank to provide a thermal gradient with a warmer and cooler area. A rheostat or thermostat can be used to control heat mats. At night, the enclosure temperature can be dropped to the low 70s. This snake should be provided with a basking area of 90º Fahrenheit. Never allow the temperature in the enclosure to go above 95º Fahrenheit. Avoid heat rocks, since they can burn a Pine Snake's skin. If potting soil is used as a substrate, you might need a reflecting light bulb or external heat emitter to maintain temperature, since the under tank heat pad might not provide sufficient heat for a warming area. Thermometers should be placed 1" over the substrate in the basking area and cooling area to monitor temperatures. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.
A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions

They Need Constant Access To Water:

Pine Snakes do not need a very humid enclosure, but
a large water bowl filled with chlorine-free water that allows the snake to submerge itself should be available at all times. Pines will soak and defecate in their water, so bowls should be checked regularly to ensure that they remain clean. Pines also like to be misted occasionally during pre-shed and shedding periods
Lighting:
They Should Have Full Spectrum Lighting:  		Pine Snakes should be exposed to supplemental UVB light 10-12 hours a day, using a fluorescent bulb designed for snake enclosures. Constant overhead light will induce stress in a Pine Snake. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
They Eat Rodents:

Pre-killed feeder mice and rats should make up the Pine Snake's diet. If live feeder animals are given, the handler should observe the feeding session. A snake that does not eat a live animal promptly can be injured, or in the case of rats, even killed by the intended prey. Feeding schedules vary by sub-species, but in general Pine Snakes should be fed once every 7-10 days. Meal size should be based on the size of the snake. Hatchlings should be started off on pinkie mice.


How to Handle A Pine Snake:
 Before you approach a Pine Snake, wash your hands thoroughly to remove the scent of any other animal. The sense of smell is a snake's primary guide in hunting, and if a hand smells like a prey animal, the Pine Snake may regard it as a potential meal. Lift a Pine Snake gently with steady relaxed motions, placing one hand under the snake about one-third the way down its body, and the other hand under at about the two-thirds mark. Support the snake with your arms and body when carrying it. Pine Snakes tend to be active when picked up. They will not wrap around your arm, the way many snakes do. Instead, they seem to want to move in one direction. Allow the snake as much freedom of movement in your arms as possible, giving free rein to the head, and gently guide it in the direction you want it to go. Do not grab or pinch the snake when carrying it. Never hold a Pine Snake close to your face or allow it to wrap itself around your neck. Pine Snakes can musk when handled. A snake that has just eaten, is getting ready to shed or is actually shedding should not be handled. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling a snake.

Bright Idea:
Always use a tongs or long-handled forceps to place a feeder animal in a snake's enclosure. Never offer feeder animals with your bare hand. Snakes identify prey by scent, and they are liable to attack your hand, if it has the smell of a feeder animal on it.


Look Out For This:
Like, the gopher snake, the pine defends it self from predators by imitating the rattler. As pets, Pine Snakes will emulate this behavior, putting on loud displays of hissing and rattling when a handler attempts to reach them. However, most pines calm down and grow accustomed to being handled. Pine Snakes also tend to move a lot when carried.

Bright Idea:
 Increase the humidity level in a snake’s enclosure during the shedding period. You can tell when a snake is ready to shed its skin because its eyes will have a milky look, and its scales will become duller. A few days after you observe this, shedding will occur. When shedding begins, humidity
levels should be increased. Complications during shedding and incomplete sheds are typically caused by insufficient humidity. You can raise humidity by misting the cage or adding a humidity box. A humidity box is a snake safe container lined with moist moss or paper towels that have an access hole cut into it to allow a snake to enter. (Use chlorine-free water to moisten material in humidity box.) Pine Snakes should not be handled when they are shedding.


Recommended Pine Snake Supplies:

  • Glass or plastic enclosure at least 20  gallon with secure lid

  • Heat Mat

  • A rheostat or thermostat to control heat mats

  • Thermometers

  • Substrate

  • Logs or other items for hiding areas

  • Spill-resistant water bowl

  • Hygrometer to measure humidity levels

  • Feeder rodents (frozen)

  • UVB light source