Milk Snake
(Lampropeltis triangulum)
Adult Size: 1.5-6 feet    Lifespan: 15 years

Did You Know:

  • The Milk Snake is very closely related to the kingsnake, with many of the same care requirements. Like the kingsnake it will prey on other snakes, including rattlesnakes.

  • There are many subspecies of Milk Snake found in North and South America, ranging in size from 18 inches to 6-feet. The tropical subspecies tend to be larger than their northern counterparts.

  • The Milk Snake has been valued by farmers for controlling rodents in barns. It gets its name from the mistaken belief that it can get milk from a cow.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

What You Should Know About Milk Snakes

They Are Relatively Long-Lived:

Some species will live into their 20s, but 15 years or so is
more common.

Enclosure:
Their Enclosure Must Be Escape Proof:

Most Milk Snake subspecies need a 30 gallon tank, but larger ones will require more room. The popular Honduran Milk Snake, for example, will need an enclosure 30-inches in length or more. An enclosure should be wide enough to equal one-third the length of snake, and long enough to equal at least two-thirds of its body length. Milk Snakes are not particularly active in their enclosures, but they like to squeeze into small crevices, a trait that makes them accomplished escape artists. Every Milk Snake enclosure should have a very secure tight-fitting cover that provides adequate ventilation.

Hiding Areas Must Be Included In Their Enclosures:

Milk Snakes need a quiet retreat that they can withdraw to. Their enclosures must include safe and secure hiding places. It is recommended that two hide boxes or logs be place in their housing, one in a warm spot, and the other in a cool down area.
Substrate:
They Enjoy Burrowing Into Substrate: 		Chips, cypress mulch and other substrates that allow burrowing are appreciated by Milk Snakes. Cedar should never be used as a substrate. Paper and indoor/outdoor carpeting are also acceptable substrates. All substrates should be checked and cleaned at least once a day.

Lighting:
They Should Have Full Spectrum Lighting:

Milk Snakes should be exposed to supplemental UVB light 10-12 hours a day, using a fluorescent bulb designed for snake enclosures. Constant overhead light will induce stress in a Milk Snake. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Temperature:
Temperature Should Be Moderate In Their Enclosures:

The temperature in a Milk Snake's enclosure should range from the mid 70s at one end to 85-87 degrees at the other end. At night, temperatures can be lowered by about 5 degrees. Temperatures can be maintained by putting a heat pad under one-third of the tank. Heat rocks should not be
used, since they can burn the snake's skin. A rheostat or thermostat can be used to control heat mats. The temperature in a snake's enclosure should never be "estimated," it should be read by a thermometer placed one inch over the substrate. A Milk Snake's enclosure should have two thermometers, one in the warmer area and one in the cooler area. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions
Water Supply Should Be Steady, But Humidity Low:  The Milk Snake's enclosure should be kept relatively dry, but the snake must always have access to a large, deep bowl of clean fresh chlorine-free water. Milk Snakes like to submerge themselves in water. They often defecate in water, so their bowls should be checked and cleaned often.

Diet:
They Do Well Eating Pre-Killed Feeder Rodents:

A Milk Snake's diet may vary slightly depending on species, but as a rule hatchlings will eat 1-3 pre-killed pinkie feeder mice a week, depending on the subspecies. Never give a live feeder animal to a hatchling; in fact pre-killed feeder animals are recommended for Milk Snakes of all ages. Young snakes that have not yet reached adulthood (generally under three years) should be fed a minimum of one feeder mouse a week. Feed mature Milk Snakes adult mice or just weaned feeder rats. A Milk Snake should be fed once a week, but larger species will do best being fed twice as often. Ultimately, the snake's owner will have to determine the feeding schedule needed to maintain the optimum weight. A Milk Snake at this weight level will be well rounded with no backbone or ribs showing.
A Note About Feeding Unless a paper or carpet substrate is used, snakes should be fed over a piece of cardboard, paper or other smooth surface to prevent them from ingesting the substrate along with their food. It's a good idea for snake owners to offer meals to their pets only in special feeding boxes and not their regular enclosures. Many snakes will become aggressive when they
anticipate a meal, and to reduce the risk of pets snapping when the enclosure is open, many owners use a feeding box. This box can be a rubber container or a tank with a safer substrate like paper or indoor/outdoor carpeting.


How to Handle A Milk Snake:
 Milk Snakes can become agitated when picked up, especially when they are young. As the snake matures, it will likely calm down, but some remain jumpy their entire lives. Never hold a Milk Snake close to your face or have the animal's mouth pointed in the direction of your face. No snake should be allowed to wrap itself around your neck. Milk Snakes should be held with two hands their bodies given firm, yet gentle, support and their heads allowed as much freedom of movement as possible. Sudden movements on the part of the handler should be avoided. Milk Snakes can musk when picked up. Avoid handling a Milk Snake at the onset of the shedding period or within two days after it has eaten. Hands should always be washed before picking up a Milk Snake, so it doesn't mistake its keeper for a prey animal.

Bright Idea:
Position thermometers about one inch over the tank's substrate to get a more accurate reading of tank temperature at "ground level" as it's experienced by the snake.


Look Out For This:
Milk Snakes will eat other snakes, so they should be housed by themselves.

Bright Idea:
 Increase the humidity level in a snake’s enclosure during the shedding period. You can tell when a snake is ready to shed its skin because its eyes will have a milky look, and its scales will become duller. A few days after you observe this, shedding will occur. When shedding begins, humidity
levels should be increased. Complications during shedding and incomplete sheds are typically caused by insufficient humidity. You can raise humidity by misting the cage or adding a humidity box. A humidity box is a snake safe container lined with moist moss or paper towels that has an access hole cut into it to allow a snake to enter. (Use chlorine-free water to moisten material in humidity box.) Milk Snakes should not be handled when they are shedding.
 

Recommended Milk Snake Supplies:

  • Glass or plastic enclosure with a secure lid

  • Heat Mat

  • A rheostat or thermostat to control heat mats

  • Thermometers

  • Substrate

  • Logs or other items for hiding areas

  • Spill-resistant water bowl

  • Hygrometer to measure humidity levels

  • Feeder rodents (frozen)

  • UVB light source