Enclosure:
They Need Space:

A 10-gallon glass tank provides ample room for a single gecko. Up to three female leopard geckos can live in a 20-gallon aquarium. Leopard Geckos will breed easily in captivity. Avoid housing males together since they can fight.

Furnishings:

Provide at least three hiding spots, such as caves or hollow logs. Place one hiding spot on the hot side of the enclosure, another on the cool side, and keep a third moist with moss (use chlorine-free water) to help with shedding. Other decorations, such as plants, rocks or branches, can also be used in larger tanks for shade or climbing.

Lighting:

Leopard Geckos require no special lighting other than a 12-hour day/night cycle. Albino Leopard Geckos, however, may be sensitive to bright light. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Temperature and Humidity:
 

Leopard Geckos need a temperature gradient, going from a cool of 75° to a warm of 85° Fahrenheit. This can be achieved using an under-tank heating mat, a ceramic heating element, or a combination of the two. Temperatures should be 10 degrees lower at night. Humidity should be 65-70%. Maintain humidity by misting with chlorine-free water. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:

Leopard Geckos eat insects, mainly crickets and mealworms. Feed juveniles every day and adults every other day. Insects should be no longer than 50-90% of the width of the gecko’s head. All insects should be gut loaded before being offered to the gecko. Uneaten crickets should be removed from the tank after 15-30 minutes. (Some cricket food should be left in dish in the tank to occupy uneaten insects that aren’t picked up, so they do not turn on the gecko. Use common sense to determine food portions. An underweight gecko will have a thin tail. An overweight one will have a ball of fat under the “armpits” of each leg. It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

Dust food with calcium supplement and vitamin supplement. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Some breeders recommend putting supplement in the dish with mealworms so the gecko eats the supplement when taking food. Avoid over-supplementing food. Our veterinarian recommends dusting insects with a plain calcium supplement every feeding. Do not use a calcium supplement with added phosphorus unless specifically directed by your veterinarian since phosphorus can promote kidney disease. Also dust insects with a vitamin D3 supplement once a week and a multi vitamin supplement twice a month.  Consult with your veterinarian for specific instructions on supplementing your pet’s food.