Kingsnake
(Lampropeltis spp)
Adult Size: 3-7 feet    Lifespan: 15-18 years

Did You Know:

  • In nature the Kingsnake will prey on other snakes, including rattlesnakes. Kingsnakes do not seem to be bothered by the venom that comes with their adversary's bite. A kingsnake will often swallow a rattlesnake whole, while it is still alive.
  • When threatened or alarmed, a Kingsnake will often rattle its tail.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

What You Should Know About Kingsnakes

They're Moderately Sized:

Hatchlings range from 8 to 13 inches long, and grow to 3-7
feet as adults depending on the individual species.

They Can Live Up To 20 Years Or More:

However a lifespan of 15-18 years is more common.
In either case, this is a hardy species, and anyone who purchases one should be prepared to make a long term commitment.

Enclosure:
Their enclosure should be secure:

Depending on the species of kingsnake, most adults can be housed in a 40-gallon aquarium or similar enclosure with a screen lid or other cover that allows adequate ventilation. It's important that any enclosure have a tight
fitting cover, since kingsnakes are the Harry Houdini of the snake world. Larger kingsnake species will need a bigger enclosure. An enclosure should provide the kingsnake with room to stretch.
Hide Boxes Should Be Included In Their Enclosure: Despite the fact that they will quickly make a meal out of a fellow snake; kingsnakes are mild mannered animals that typically would rather flee than fight. As such, they appreciate having a sanctuary where they can get away from it all. Their enclosures should have two hide boxes to meet this need for
privacy. One hide box should be placed in the warmer area of the enclosure and the other in the cooler area. Hide boxes should not be too large, since kingsnakes tend to feel more
secure in a tighter space.

Substrate:
Cedar And Pine Shavings Should Not Be Used With Them:

The aromatic oils in cedar and pine can cause severe, even life threatening respiratory problems, so these materials should never be used. Reptile bark and Astroturf™ are often used as substrates. Kingsnakes also seem to enjoy burrowing in cypress mulch bedding. Paper towels and butcher paper make good substrate material for new snakes, since they can be replaced when soiled, and they make it easy to see parasites and mites.

Temperature:
They Are Sensitive To Temperatures That Are Too High:

Most kingsnake species do not do well when exposed to temperatures over 90 degrees for prolonged periods.
Kingsnakes should be provided with a thermal gradient ranging from the mid 70s at one end of the enclosure to 85-87 degrees at the other end. At night, temperatures can be
lowered by about 5 degrees. Temperatures can be maintained by putting a heat pad under one-third of the tank. Heat rocks should not be used, since they can burn the snake's skin.
A rheostat or thermostat can be used to control heat mats. The temperature in a snake's enclosure should never be "estimated," it should be read by a thermometer placed one
inch over the substrate. A kingsnake's enclosure should have two thermometers, one in the warmer area and one in the cooler area. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.
They Don't Require A High Level Of Humidity: Most kingsnakes require a relatively low humidity level of between 40% and 60%. This can generally be achieved by placing a bowl of chlorine-free water in the snake’s enclosure. During shedding periods, when more humidity is required, it can be increased by misting the enclosure or using a humidity box. Use a hygrometer to measure humidity levels.

Lighting:
They Should Have A Full Spectrum Of Light:

Kingsnakes should be exposed to supplemental UVB light 10-12 hours a day. However, constant light will cause stress. Use fluorescent bulb designed for snakes. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
The Amount Of Food They Need Varies By Species:		 Kingsnake hatchlings should be fed pre-killed pinkie feeder mice, never live feeder animals. Feeding should take place in a separate container. Feed hatchlings 2-6 pinkie mice a week depending on the species and the growth rate desired. Young snakes that have not yet reached adulthood (generally under three years) should be fed a minimum of one feeder mouse a week. Adult Kingsnakes should be fed adult mice or just weaned feeder rats. As a rule of thumb, a Kingsnake should be fed once a week. Larger species (those over 4') should be fed 3-4 mice per meal, other species should receive 2-3 mice per meal. Ultimately, the snake's owner will have to determine the feeding schedule needed to maintain the optimum weight. A Kingsnake at this weight level will be well rounded with no backbone or ribs showing. Kingsnakes should not be handled for at least 1-2 days after feeding. Always use a tongs or longhandled forceps to place a feeder animal in a Kingsnake's enclosure. Never offer feeder animals with your bare hand. Snakes identify prey by scent, and they are liable to attack
your hand, if it has the smell of a feeder animal on it.
A Note About Feeding Unless a paper or carpet substrate is used, snakes should be fed over a piece of cardboard, paper or other smooth surface to prevent them from ingesting the substrate along with their food. It's a good idea for snake owners to offer meals to their pets only in special feeding boxes and not their regular enclosures. Many snakes will become aggressive when they
anticipate a meal, and to reduce the risk of pets snapping when the enclosure is open, many owners use a feeding box. This box can be a rubber container or a tank with a safer substrate like paper or indoor/outdoor carpeting.
A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
They Need A Steady Supply Of Water: Kingsnakes must always have access to clean, fresh chlorine-free water. Their enclosures should have a water bowl that is deep enough for the snake to submerge its body and wide enough not to be overturned easily. Kingsnakes often defecate in their water, so their bowls should be checked and cleaned often.

How to Handle A Kingsnake:
Young kingsnakes can become nervous when picked up until they grow accustomed to being handled. A kingsnake that is apprehensive about being handled is likely to spray anyone who picks it up with a musky substance. However, if a handler is gentle and persistent, a kingsnake will begin to relax and accept handling. Kingsnakes should be held with two hands, their bodies given firm, yet gentle, support and their heads allowed as much freedom of movement as possible. Sudden movements on the part of the handler should be avoided. Avoid handling a kingsnake at the onset of the shedding period or within two days after it has eaten. Hands should always be washed before picking up a
kingsnake, so it doesn't mistake its keeper for a prey animal.

Bright Idea:
Snake owners should be aware of seasonal eating patterns when feeding their pet. Many snakes will eat the most in the spring and summer, and the least in the winter.


Look Out For This:
Since they do prey on other snakes in nature, kingsnake should always be housed by themselves. They are one of the snake world's great escape artists, so extra care should be taken to secure the top of their enclosures.

Bright Idea:
 Increase the humidity level in a snake’s enclosure during the shedding period. You can tell when a snake is ready to shed its skin because its eyes will have a milky look, and its scales will become duller. A few days after you observe this, shedding will occur. When shedding begins, humidity
levels should be increased. Complications during shedding and incomplete sheds are typically caused by insufficient humidity. You can raise humidity by misting the cage or adding a humidity box. A humidity box is a snake safe container lined with moist moss or paper towels that has an access hole cut into it to allow a snake to enter. (Use chlorine-free water to moisten material in humidity box.) Kingsnakes should not be handled when they are shedding.
 


Recommended Kingsnake Supplies:

  • Glass or plastic enclosure with secure lid

  • Heat mat

  • A rheostat or thermostat to control heat mats

  • Thermometers

  • Substrate

  • Logs or other items for hiding areas

  • Spill-resistant water bowl

  • Hygrometer to measure humidity levels

  • Feeder rodents (frozen)

  • UVB light source