The Basics:

Males should not be housed together. To sex a Japalura Tree Dragon look at the center of their backs. Males will have an unbroken line of black markings. In females, these markings will be a series of diamonds or squares with green between them. As adults, males will also have a small crest on the back of their heads.

Enclosure:

This is one of the more curious and active lizards, so it needs at least a 20-gallon aquarium. It does best as a solitary pet, since a pair of Japalura Tree Dragons can get into territorial disputes. The Japalura Tree Dragon’s enclosure should be vertically oriented to accommodate this lizard’s strong drive to climb. It should also have a screened to provide ventilation – and that top should be secure to prevent escapes.

Substrate:

Since these lizards require a high-level of humidity, their enclosures must have a reptile safe substrate that retains moisture. Peat moss and coconut fiber are good choices.

Temperature:

By lizard standards, they like a relatively cool environment. The ideal ambient temperature is the low to mid 70s° Fahrenheit with a basking area of 80°. At night the enclosure can be lowered to room temperature. Use digital thermometers placed at different heights to monitor temperature. The Japalura Tree Dragon enjoys basking, so a rock under a heat lamp is a good idea, but heat rocks must be avoided, since they can burn this lizard’s skin.

Lighting:

The Japalura Tree Dragon needs at least 10 hours of UVB light exposure in the winter and 12-14 hours in the summer. The length of the light cycles should be changed gradually in the enclosure as they would be in nature.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

 All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Humidity:

These lizards need very high humidity levels. Keep several large bowls or waterfalls/fountains in their enclosure and mist often. Humidity should be at least 75%. Use a hygrometer to measure humidity levels.

Supplements:

Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplements. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Follow product label directions when applying supplements, and avoid over-supplementing food. The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Our veterinarian recommends dusting insects with a plain calcium supplement every time they are offered to the pet. (Avoid using a calcium supplement with added phosphorous, unless specifically directed by your veterinarian, since this can promote kidney disease.) Our veterinarian also recommends dusting insects with a D3 supplement once a week and a vitamin supplement two times a month. This is only one recommendation, consult your veterinarian for specific directions on supplementing your pet’s food, since there are many variables that go into determining the best supplementing regimen for a given animal.