Garter Snake
 (Thamnophis sp.)
Adult Size: 3 feet    Lifespan: 3-10 years, depending on species


IMPORTANT: THERE ARE A VARIETY OF DIFFERENT SPECIES OF GARTER SNAKES, AND THEIR CARE REQUIREMENTS ARE DIFFERENT. ANYONE OWNING A GARTER SHOULD KNOW ITS SPECIES AND BECOME FAMILIAR WITH ITS SPECIFIC CARE NEEDS.

Did You Know:

  • The garter snake is extremely sociable. Different garters will communicate with one another during mating and at other times through a complex series of skin pheromones.
  • Some garter snake species will travel distances of over two miles to communal hibernation sites in the fall. Hibernating garters will curl up into a tight coil together to preserve body heat.
  • In nature, garter snakes are one of the few animals that can feed on toads and other amphibians, having a rare ability to ignore the noxious chemicals these animals secrete to ward off predators.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

What You Should Know About Garter Snakes

They Don't Grow That Large:

At birth, a garter snake will be between 5.5 and 8 inches long.
A full-size adult may grow to 3.5 to 4, feet, but a length of 3 feet or less is more common. Garters typically achieve half their adult size in the first year, and their full-size 12-18
months later. Their relatively small size makes them convenient for pet owners who do not have a lot of space.

They Are Relatively Short-lived:

Most garter snakes don't make it much past two years in
their natural environments because of predation. However, with proper care a captive garter snake can live ten years or longer, but many have shorter life spans.
A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.

Enclosure:
They Need A Pool In Their Housing:

In nature garter snakes spend a great deal of time by riverbeds and other areas near water. For this reason, their enclosures should have a pool of chlorine-free water where they can swim. A garter snake can be housed in a vivarium with a built-in swim area. An alternative is to put a bowl of chlorine-free water in the substrate of a garter snake's aquarium tank. In either case, the swim area must be large enough for the snake to be able to immerse itself completely in the water. The water level should be low enough so nothing spills out on to the substrate when the snake enters the pool. Most species of garter snakes can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium with a secure lid. Hide boxes and a climbing branch should also be included in the enclosure. Strong and determined garter snakes are masters at escaping through even the smallest crevice, so their housing should be escape proof
Lighting:
They Should Have Full Spectrum Lighting: 		Garter Snakes should be exposed to supplemental UVB light 10-12 hours a day, using a fluorescent bulb designed for snake enclosures.

Substrate:
They Do Well With A Variety Of Substrates:

Garter snakes will do well with paper substrates (butcher paper, unprinted newsprint, or paper towels) as well as with a mix of sterilized sand and potting soil, or dry mulch. Wood shavings are not highly recommend, since they can be ingested, cedar should never be used, since its oils are toxic to snakes. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Temperature:
They Need A Temperature Gradient:

Like all snakes, Garters are "cold blooded" animals that cannot regulate their own body temperature, so they must be
provided with an external heat source. Different Garter species have somewhat varying temperature requirements -- consult literature and a veterinary specialist for specifics. Depending on the species, Garter Snakes should be provided with a thermal gradient ranging from 75º to 82º Fahrenheit with a basking area at 85º. Place a heat pad under one-third of the enclosure; other heat sources like lamps can also be used to provide the thermal gradient. Allow the temperature in the enclosure to fall to about 68º at night. Northern species should have a winter “cooling” period. Northern species are also used to a wider range of temperatures. The temperature in a snake's enclosure should never be "estimated," it should be read by a thermometer placed one inch over the substrate. A Garter Snake's enclosure should have two thermometers, one in the warmer area and one in the cooler area. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Their Enclosure Should Be Dry:  Although they like to be around water, garter snakes need a
relatively dry enclosure (except for their swimming pool) to avoid skin diseases and other illnesses. It is important to remove damp substrate promptly from their enclosures, and to
ensure that adequate ventilation is maintained.

Diet:
They Eat A Varied Diet:

Unlike most pet snakes, which eat feeder rodents almost
exclusively, garter snakes take in a variety of foods. In fact, most subspecies will not accept feeder mice, and many will refuse to eat even pinkies. The dietary habits of garters
will vary by subspecies, but most will accept and do well on earthworms, other insects, and fish (live or frozen, such as guppies, sand eels and Lance fish). Wax worms and white
worms can be used to supplement the diet of many subspecies. Fish is not nutritionally complete, and should not be the sole diet of a snake.  Worms should be placed in a shallow bowl or jar lid to prevent them from picking
up loose substrate, which can be ingested by the garter snake. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:
A Note About Feeding Unless a paper or carpet substrate is used, snakes should be fed over a piece of cardboard, paper or other smooth surface to prevent them from ingesting the substrate along with their food. It's a good idea for snake owners to offer meals to their pets only in special feeding boxes and not their regular enclosures. Many snakes will become aggressive when they
anticipate a meal, and to reduce the risk of pets snapping when the enclosure is open, many owners use a feeding box. This box can be a rubber container or a tank with a safer substrate like paper or indoor/outdoor carpeting.
Supplements: Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplements. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Follow product label directions when applying supplements, and avoid over-supplementing food. The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Our veterinarian recommends dusting insects with a plain calcium supplement every time they are offered to the pet. (Avoid using a calcium supplement with added phosphorous, unless specifically directed by your veterinarian, since this can promote kidney disease.) Our veterinarian also recommends dusting insects with a D3 supplement once a week and a vitamin supplement two times a month. This is only one recommendation, consult your veterinarian for specific directions on supplementing your pet’s food, since there are many variables that go into determining the best supplementing regimen for a given animal.

How to Handle A Garter Snake:
Wash your hands before lifting a snake to remove the scent of any other animal. Approach a garter snake calmly and slowly from the side. This will make the snake less nervous than if you approach it from above. Lift a garter snake gently with steady relaxed motions, placing one hand under the snake about one-third the way down its body, and the other hand under at about the two-thirds mark. Support the snake with your arms and body when carrying it.

Do not grab or pinch a garter snake when carrying it. A snake that has just eaten, is getting ready to shed or is actually shedding should not be handled. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling a snake. Since garter snakes are delicate, extra care should be taken not to jostle them. Garter snakes will bite when they feel threatened, and their bite can cause some swelling.


Look Out For This:
The garter snake can be a feisty animal that may very well resist handling initially. A threatened garter is likely to bite or smear an unpleasant and pungent odor. Garters are also more prone to skin
disorders if their enclosures are not kept in top condition.

Bright Idea:
 Increase the humidity level in a snake’s enclosure during the shedding period. You can tell when a snake is ready to shed its skin because its eyes will have a milky look, and its scales will become duller. A few days after you observe this, shedding will occur. When shedding begins, humidity
levels should be increased. Complications during shedding and incomplete sheds are typically caused by insufficient humidity. You can raise humidity by misting the cage or adding a humidity box. A humidity box is a snake safe container lined with moist moss or paper towels that has an access hole cut into it to allow a snake to enter. (Use chlorine-free water to moisten material in humidity box.) Garter Snakes should not be handled when they are shedding.


Recommended Garter Snake Supplies:

  • Glass or plastic enclosure of 10-20 gallons with secure lid, or a vivarium

  • Bowl to use as a pool in enclosure

  • Heat Mat

  • A rheostat or thermostat to control heat mats

  • Thermometers

  • Substrate

  • Hide box, logs, or other items for hiding areas

  • Hygrometer to measure humidity levels

  • Appropriate animals for garter diet

  • UVB light source