The Basics:

This species is also known as the Black Emperor Scorpion, because of its dark coloration, which is typically blue/black, but can also be brown/black. It has broad claws that are somewhat hairy and bumpy. The claws and stinger can be red colored. The Emperor Scorpion is covered by an external skeleton (exoskeleton). As it grows, an Emperor Scorpion will shed its external skeleton several times. Typically, it will become darker colored with each shed. This is a relatively docile nocturnal animal that is sensitive to light. In nature it spends most of its time under rocks or in burrows. A hardy
animal, it is relatively easy to care for as a pet. Care must be taken to ensure that every animal called an "Emperor Scorpion" is in fact an Emperor Scorpion. Other scorpions
such as the large, black Androctonuc bicolor, resemble the Emperor Scorpion, but they have a dangerously toxic sting that causes severe, possibly fatal reactions

Enclosure:
Width Is More Important Than Height :

A 20-gallon tank can house three Emperor Scorpions. The width of the tank is more important that the height, but the tank should be at least three times as tall as the scorpion. The tank cover must be secure and tight fitting, since scorpions will use their powerful claws to pull themselves up over the edge of an enclosure if they're given the opportunity. A screen top works well since it provides ventilation. Rocks, cork and logs can be provided for hiding places, but enough
open space should be left for burrowing. Since scorpions react poorly to bright light, the enclosure should not be kept in an area that gets a great deal of sunlight.

Substrate:
They Need To Burrow:

Having ample opportunity to burrow is critically
important to the well being of Emperor Scorpions. The bottom of their enclosures should be covered with 4-5 inches of commercial sterilized potting soil mixed with non-aromatic
bark. The substrate must be kept slightly damp to help maintain high humidity levels. Emperor Scorpions will burrow in this substrate. The substrate should be inspected daily,
so waste or debris can be removed. It must be changed once a month.

Temperature:
They Like It Hot:

An Emperor Scorpion's enclosure should be kept at a
temperature of 75-85º Fahrenheit during the day, and slightly cooler (upper 70ºs) at night. An under tank heater should be positioned under a section of the tank to provide
a thermal gradient of warmer and cooler areas. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using heat-producing products. Since maintaining the proper temperature is so critical to the health of an Emperor Scorpion, it should never be guessed. A thermometer should be placed about two inches over the surface of the substrate in the warm and cool area.

Lighting:
They Should Not Be Overexposed To Direct Light:

Emperor Scorpions should never be kept in lighted enclosures, since this will cause stress. A low wattage red night lamp can be used to observe these nocturnal animals in the evening. (Follow manufacturer's directions.) They do not need exposure to high UVB light.

Diet:
They Must Not Be Overfed:

An adult Emperor Scorpion can be fed 3-5 appropriately sized gut-loaded crickets twice a week. Juveniles should be offered 3-5 pinhead crickets daily. Any insects not taken within two hours should be removed from the enclosure. Caterpillars and other large insects can also be offered to adults, as can a feeder pinkie mouse (once every 2-3 months). Overfeeding poses a health risk to captive Emperor Scorpions, and must be avoided.

Water & Humidity:

High humidity levels are essential to the health of Emperor Scorpions, especially during molting. A humidity level that's too high or too low can cause molting problems, which are one of the most common causes of death among captive Emperor Scorpions. It is essential that humidity levels inside the Emperor Scorpion's enclosure be maintained at around 75-80 percent. (If there is condensation on the enclosure's sides, the humidity levels are too high. Providing a shallow dish of chlorine-free water, and misting the enclosure daily will help maintain humidity levels. Use a hygrometer to measure humidity levels. Always use water that is free of chlorine and heavy metals. We recommend bottled spring water or unflavored bottled drinking water.  Do not use untreated tap water. Distilled water must also never be used, since it lacks essential minerals and can harm an animal over time.