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Emerald Swift
(Sceloporus
malachiticus)
Habitat: Cloud
Forest
Diet:
Insectivorous
Adult Size: 6-8
inches
Lifespan: 2-5 years
or less in captivity
Native To: Southern
Mexican and Central American
Forests |
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Did
You Know:
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An excellent climber, the
Emerald Swift agilely scales
trees and rocks in its
native
habitat.
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Unlike many lizards, Emerald
Swifts are livebearers,
which means they give birth
to live offspring rather
than laying eggs.
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Male Emerald Swifts are
among the most colorful
lizards, with dark green
markings, a black throat,
blue belly patches and a
turquoise tail.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole source of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian trained in caring
for reptiles and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care.
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Things You Should Know About The
Emerald Swift |
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The Basics: |
The Emerald Swift is a
beautiful, but delicate
lizard that is very
difficult to keep. It
has an extremely high
mortality rate in
captivity, often dying
within one year. This
lizard should never be
purchased by anyone but
the most experienced
reptile keeper. Even
then, the decision to
own an Emerald Swift
should be given careful
consideration because of
its special needs. A
small stocky lizard, the
Emerald Swift rarely
grows much beyond seven
inches. Females are
smaller and much less
colorful than males. All
specimens in the pet
trade are wild caught
animals from the cloud
forests of southern
Mexico and Central
America. Diurnal
lizards, Emerald Swifts
are most active during
the day. They are
territorial, so males
must not be housed
together. |
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Enclosure:
The More
Space The Better
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Emerald swifts are
active lizards that
require a large
enclosure relative to
their small body size. A
30-gallon glass tank, or
preferably larger,
should be used for a
single male and one or
two females. The tank
should have a secure
screen lid for proper
air exchange. Climbing
and basking branches and
perches that are at
least twice the diameter
of the lizard's body
should be provided. The
enclosure
should also include
secure hiding places.
Emerald swifts seem to
do best when they have a
variety of climbing,
basking and hiding
spots. It's a good idea
to arrange climbing and
basking branches
vertically and
horizontally. Pothos or
a similar live plant
makes a welcome addition
to the enclosure,
because it provides
security and helps
maintain humidity. |
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Substrate:
Select A
Humidity Retainer:
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The enclosure used in an
Emerald Swift's
enclosure should play an
important role in
maintaining the high
humidity levels required
by this lizard. Humidity
retaining substrates
like safe potting soil,
mulch made from
nonaromatic wood (no
pine or cedar), and leaf
litter work well. Since
Emerald Swifts like to
burrow, a substrate that
they can dig into may
make them feel more
secure. Any substrate in
an Emerald Swift's
enclosure must be
cleaned daily. |
Lighting:
UVB Lighting
Is Absolutely Essential:
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Emerald Swifts should be
exposed to UVB and UVA
lighting for about 12
hours a day. This
exposure is critical in
allowing the animal to
synthesize vitamin D3
and absorb calcium. If a
lizard isn't exposed to
an adequate level of UVB
lighting, it will
develop a metabolic bone
disorder. Specialized
reptile lighting should
be used instead of plant
or aquarium lighting, to
provide these essential
ultra violet rays.
Fluorescent tubes
producing UVB rays
should be replaced every
six months. Glass blocks
out UVB light, so
overhead light sources
should be kept behind a
wire mesh cover, not a
glass or acrylic tank
top. This light source
should be within 12
inches of the Emerald
Swift. A timer can be
used to control lighting
cycles. Important -
see the Note About
Day/Night Light Cycles
and Heating below. |
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Temperature:
Not Too
Hot: |
By lizard standards,
Emerald Swifts seem to
do best in relatively
cool enclosures. The
ambient temperatures
should be in the
mid-to-upper 70ºs to low
80ºs (Fahrenheit). A
relatively warm basking
area (in the mid-90ºs)
should also be provided.
This will allow the
Emerald Swift to
regulate body
temperature by moving
around the enclosure.
Nighttime temperatures
should be lowered to
70-74º. A
combination of lamps and
heat emitters can be
used to maintain the
desired thermal
gradient, while a lamp
can heat the basking
spot. Ceramic heat
emitters can be used to
achieve nighttime
temperatures without
disturbing the on/off
light cycle.
Thermometers should be
positioned in the warmer
and cooler areas of the
enclosure as well as in
the basking spot.
Important - see the
Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating: |
All
reptiles, including this pet, must have
distinct day and night periods in their
enclosure to maintain their biological
rhythms. (See the lighting entry above
for the specific length of this animal’s
day/night cycle.) The day period
must be light; and night must be dark.
A timer should be used to set day/night
periods. If a heat source is required to
maintain correct nighttime temperatures,
use heat mats or strips mounted below or
on the side of the tank, infrared heat
lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a
combination of these products. This will
allow the enclosure to be heated while
remaining dark. Follow directions
carefully with all products. If ceramic
heat emitters are used always choose
fixtures with porcelain or ceramic
sockets and to protect against fires do
not place them by dry wood or flammable
fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be
kept out of the reach of children and
all pets, including dogs and cats.
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Humidity:
Relatively
High Levels Required:
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An Emerald Swift
requires relatively high
humidity levels in its
enclosure to simulate
its natural cloud forest
environment. Between
50-70% humidity should
be maintained. This can
be accomplished by
misting the enclosure
1-2 times a day with
chlorine-free water, and
using live plants. It is
important to keep
nighttime humidity
levels high. A
hygrometer should be
used to measure humidity
levels. Care should be
taken not to create an
enclosure environment
that is too humid, since
this will promote fungal
infections and
jeopardize the health of
the lizard. |
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A
NOTE ABOUT WATER: |
All water given to this
pet for drinking, as
well as water used for
misting, soaking or
bathing must be 100%
free of chlorine and
heavy metals. (Not all
home water filtration
systems remove 100% of
the chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. If
tap water is used, you
should treat it with a
dechlorinating treatment.
Do not use distilled
water, which can cause
severe medical problems,
since it lacks minerals
that are essential to
important body functions. |
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Diet:
Insects Are The Main
Course: |
Insects should make up
the bulk of an Emerald
Swift's
diet. However, some will
also accept and
appreciate an occasional
sweet fruit.
Commercially available
crickets, mealworms,
butter worms, as well as
the occasional waxworm,
are all appropriate fare
for this lizard. Insects
should be gut loaded and
dusted with a supplement
before being offered to
the Emerald Swift.
Adults should be fed
every other day and
juveniles should be fed
daily. Portion size
should be as much as
animal can consume in
15-20 minutes. (Adults
will get about 15-20
medium-sized crickets
per week.) Important --
It is necessary to
provide calcium and
vitamin supplements as
part of the diet. Please
read the supplement
section below: |
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A
Note About Gut Loading |
Feeding crickets a
nutritious diet will
pass on vital nutrients
to your reptile. When
reptiles eat these
insects they are able to
absorb the nutrients.
This is why it is
important to gut load
crickets at least 48
hours before offering
them to a reptile.
Commercial cricket foods
provide a convenient way
to gut load crickets.
(Always follow
manufacturer’s
directions.) Crickets
should also be provided
with water, preferably
in the form of oranges
or a commercial water
gel product designed
specifically to hydrate
feeder insects. Putting
a shallow dish of water
in the cricket holding
tank will result in
insects drowning and
promote the spread of
bacteria.
You can also create your
own gut-loading formula.
Our vet recommends a mix
of ground up dog food,
cereal and fresh greens
with oranges or a
commercial gel for
water. |
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Supplements: |
Dust insects with
calcium supplement and
vitamin supplements. As
a rule, a growing
juvenile's food should
be dusted more often
than an adult's. Follow
product label directions
when applying
supplements, and avoid
over-supplementing food.
The following is a
possible supplementing
schedule for this
reptile.
Our veterinarian
recommends dusting
insects with a plain
calcium supplement every
time they are offered to
the pet. (Avoid using a
calcium supplement with
added phosphorous,
unless specifically
directed by your
veterinarian, since this
can promote kidney
disease.) Our
veterinarian also
recommends dusting
insects with a D3
supplement once a week
and a vitamin supplement
two times a month. This
is only one
recommendation, consult
your veterinarian for
specific directions on
supplementing your pet’s
food, since there are
many variables that go
into determining the
best supplementing
regimen for a given
animal.
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How
To Handle an Emerald Swift:
Emerald Swifts are generally
not among the easiest lizards to
handle, since they are wild
caught
animals. Many experienced
reptile keepers handle these
lizards only when absolutely
necessary, such as when cleaning
their cage or taking them to the
vet. However, some keepers say
that with gentle and persistent
handling they can calm down
quite a bit. When handling,
approach the Emerald Swift from
the side, rather than from
directly overhead, and grasp the
lizard by placing your hand over
the body and restraining the
neck area with your thumb and
forefinger. Never pick it up by
the head or
tail. Always wash your hands
before and after handling an
Emerald Swift. Important – it is
not a good idea to try to “tame”
an Emerald Swift, since the
handling involved will be very
stressful to the animal.
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Look Out For This:
Emerald Swifts often carry
parasites when caught. Fecal
samples should
be tested by a veterinarian
experienced in reptile care
before this lizard
is ever sold.
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Recommended
Emerald Swift Supplies:
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A top-opening glass tank
or other enclosure that
offers height and a
secure top
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UVB and UVA emitting
light
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Heating element to
maintain enclosure
temperatures
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Three thermometers, so
temperature can be
monitored at both ends
of the enclosure and in
the basking area
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A humidity-retaining
substrate
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Shallow water dish
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Spray bottle
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Live plants and climbing
branches
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Hiding areas
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Hygrometer to measure
humidity levels
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Thermostat and rheostat
to regulate heat
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