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Collared
Lizard
(Crotaphytus collaris)
Habitat:
Desert, Grassland or Prairie
Diet: Largely Carnivorous
Adult Size: 8-14 inches
Lifespan: 5-10 years
Native To: North America
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Did
You Know:
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Unlike many lizards, the
Collared Lizard cannot grow
a new tail if its old one is
broken off.
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Collared Lizards are one of
the fastest lizards, able to
reach speeds of up to 16
miles per hour. They run on
their hind legs, holding
their bodies off the ground
at
a 45-degree angle with tail
and forelimbs raised, giving
them the appearance of
miniature T-Rexes.
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The Collared Lizard gets its
name because the two black
bands on its neck
resemble a collar.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole source of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian trained in caring
for reptiles and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care.
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Things You Should Know About The
Collared Lizard |
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The Basics: |
Lively, alert and wary,
the Collared Lizard will
often take a while to
warm up to its human
keeper. Although only
medium in size, Collared
Lizards have powerful
jaws, and their bite is
capable of breaking
human skin. So care
should be taken when
handling them. However,
they will grow to accept
human handling over
time, after
gentle, measured and
persistent overtures. In
nature, Collared Lizards
can be found in arid and
semi-arid environments
stretching from Missouri
to California and down
into
Mexico. Most often they
live in rocky areas.
They typically grow to
around a foot in length,
with males being larger
than females. Males are
also more vividly
colored than
females, having a green
or blue coloration with
bands and small white
spots, while the females
are paler and grayer. A
male's throat will also
be brightly colored,
often blue or
green and sometimes even
orange. The belly of a
Collared Lizard is much
lighter than the back. |
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Enclosure:
They Need
Space: |
Collareds are very
active lizards, so they
must be housed in
enclosures that offer
ample room. A single
Collared Lizard should
have an enclosure that's
at least the size of a
40-gallon aquarium, with
adequate ventilation.
However, a
larger enclosure is more
desirable. Male Collared
Lizards are very
territorial, and should
never be housed
together. In nature,
Collareds are very
active predators that
will readily
eat other lizards, so
smaller animals must not
be housed with them.
This includes members of
their own species, since
Collareds are
cannibalistic. |
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Climbing And Hiding
Places Required: |
Wild Collared Lizards
enjoy climbing and
basking
on rocks. This natural
environment must be
replicated in their
enclosure, with a larger
rock or rock pile in the
basking area of the
tank. If a pile is used,
care must be taken to
ensure that the rocks
are stable, so they will
not topple on to the
lizard. The top of the
rock pile should provide
a surface that's large
enough to allow the
lizard to bask
comfortably. Since
Collareds are often wary
animals, their
enclosures must include
hide boxes or other
places that provide them
with a secure retreat.
This area can be located
in the cooler section of
the enclosure. |
Substrate:
Sand Works
Best: |
A Sanitized commercially
available desert sand is
the
preferred substrate, but
Collared Lizards will
also do well with
alfalfa pellets, mulch,
and paper as well as
indoor/outdoor
carpeting. Care should
be taken to ensure that
the lizard
does not eat the
substrate in its
enclosure. If this does
happen, indoor/outdoor
carpeting, paper or an
edible substrate should
be used. |
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Lighting:
UVB Lighting
Is Absolutely Essential: |
Collared lizards need
exposure to UVB rays
to produce vitamin D3,
which is essential to
the animal's ability to
absorb calcium. Unlike
people, lizards like the
Collared cannot produce
their own Vitamin D3, so
they
must depend on UVB rays.
Without Vitamin D3, a
Collared Lizard will not
have a sufficient supply
of calcium even if it is
given a supplement, a
condition that will lead
to
the development of a
metabolic bone disease.
UVB rays should be
provided to the Collared
Lizard by a fluorescent
bulb that also provides
UVA rays and operates on
a 10-12 hour on/off cycle.
There are a variety of
full spectrum lights
available at PSP that
emit UVB light in
combination with UVA
light. Fluorescent lamps
producing UVB rays
should be replaced every
six months. Glass blocks
out UVB light, so
overhead light sources
should be kept behind a
wire mesh cover, not a
glass or acrylic tank
top. This light source
should be within 12
inches of the animal.
Important - see the
Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Temperature:
They Like
It Hot And Dry: |
Collared Lizards do best
in an enclosure that is
hot and
relatively dry. Daytime
temperatures must range
from the 75º to 90º (Fahrenheit)
with a basking area with
temperatures of 95º-105º Fahrenheit. (The
basking area should
include a basking rock
or rock pile, with a
heat lamp aimed at its
highest point.) At night
temperatures can be in
the 73º to 85º range. Do not use “hot
rocks,” which can harm
the lizard skin in the
basking area or anywhere
in the enclosure. Also
be sure that all rocks
in the basking area are
firmly secured in place,
since falling rocks can
crush this lizard. Heat
can be provided by a
combination of lamps.
Nocturnal heat sources
should be used to
maintain temperature
levels at night Three
thermometers should
monitor temperature, one
in the warmer zone, one
in the cooler zone and
one in the basking area.
Important - see the
Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating: |
All
reptiles, including this pet, must have
distinct day and night periods in their
enclosure to maintain their biological
rhythms. (See the lighting entry above
for the specific length of this animal’s
day/night cycle.) The day period
must be light; and night must be dark.
A timer should be used to set day/night
periods. If a heat source is required to
maintain correct nighttime temperatures,
use heat mats or strips mounted below or
on the side of the tank, infrared heat
lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a
combination of these products. This will
allow the enclosure to be heated while
remaining dark. Follow directions
carefully with all products. If ceramic
heat emitters are used always choose
fixtures with porcelain or ceramic
sockets and to protect against fires do
not place them by dry wood or flammable
fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be
kept out of the reach of children and
all pets, including dogs and cats.
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Diet:
Mostly Meat: |
Collared Lizards are
primarily carnivores,
but many will also eat
plant matter, including
collard greens, mustard
greens, kale and
zucchini. Meat should
constitute the majority
of the Collared Lizard's
diet. Collared Lizards
will eat commercially
raised crickets,
mealworms, earthworms,
kingworms and roaches.
(Wild caught insects
should never be fed,
since they can carry
disease.) All insects
should be gut loaded
(fed 48-hours before
being offered) and
dusted with a
supplement. Collared
Lizards will also take
pinkie feeder mice, but
these should be fed
sparingly because of
their high fat content.
Plant matter fed to the
lizard must be washed,
then cut or shred to
make it easier to
ingest. Uneaten food
should be removed within
three hours. Adults
should be fed 3-4 times
a week and juveniles
daily. Offer adults
12-24
appropriately-sized
crickets per feeding and
juveniles 6-12. Important
-- It is necessary to
provide calcium and
vitamin supplements as
part of the diet. Please
read the supplement
section below: |
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A
Note About Gut Loading |
Feeding crickets a
nutritious diet will
pass on vital nutrients
to your reptile. When
reptiles eat these
insects they are able to
absorb the nutrients.
This is why it is
important to gut load
crickets at least 48
hours before offering
them to a reptile.
Commercial cricket foods
provide a convenient way
to gut load crickets.
(Always follow
manufacturer’s
directions.) Crickets
should also be provided
with water, preferably
in the form of oranges
or a commercial water
gel product designed
specifically to hydrate
feeder insects. Putting
a shallow dish of water
in the cricket holding
tank will result in
insects drowning and
promote the spread of
bacteria.
You can also create your
own gut-loading formula.
Our vet recommends a mix
of ground up dog food,
cereal and fresh greens
with oranges or a
commercial gel for
water. |
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Supplements: |
Dust insects with
calcium supplement and
vitamin supplements. As
a rule, a growing
juvenile's food should
be dusted more often
than an adult's. Follow
product label directions
when applying
supplements, and avoid
over-supplementing food.
The following is a
possible supplementing
schedule for this
reptile.
Our veterinarian
recommends dusting
insects with a plain
calcium supplement every
time they are offered to
the pet. (Avoid using a
calcium supplement with
added phosphorous,
unless specifically
directed by your
veterinarian, since this
can promote kidney
disease.) Our
veterinarian also
recommends dusting
insects with a D3
supplement once a week
and a vitamin supplement
two times a month. This
is only one
recommendation, consult
your veterinarian for
specific directions on
supplementing your pet’s
food, since there are
many variables that go
into determining the
best supplementing
regimen for a given
animal.
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A
NOTE ABOUT WATER: |
All water given to this
pet for drinking, as
well as water used for
misting, soaking or
bathing must be 100%
free of chlorine and
heavy metals. (Not all
home water filtration
systems remove 100% of
the chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. If
tap water is used, you
should treat it with a
dechlorinating treatment.
Do not use distilled
water, which can cause
severe medical problems,
since it lacks minerals
that are essential to
important body functions |
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Water |
Clean fresh
chlorine-free water must
always be available to a
Collared. This lizard
does best with a shallow
water bowl that includes
small stones. If a
Collared Lizard refuses
to accept water from a
bowl, droplets should be
sprinkled on rocks.
Collared lizards do best
in enclosures that have
20-30 percent humidity
levels. |
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How to Handle A Collared
Lizard:
Naturally wary, Collared
Lizards will often resist being
handled initially. However, they
can be won over eventually with
patience and gentle persistence.
Offering a Collared
Lizard a mealworm or other
treat, first with forceps then
with the tips of your fingers
will
help them become acclimated to
you. However, handling should
not be forced on a
Collared that remains reluctant
to accept it.
When picking up a Collared
Lizard, approach it low and from
the side rather than from
overhead. In nature, predatory
birds approach lizards from
above, so a lizard will
understandably become defensive
if you stand over it and reach
down. Pick up the
Collared Lizard by sliding one
hand under it so you can
straddle across its back and
forelegs, while using the other
hand to hold its hips and tail.
Don't grasp the Collared Lizard
too hard, or make it feel
restrained. At the same time, be
alert to the fact that even a
seemingly calm Collared Lizard
can jump up and run away.
Never pick up a Collared, or any
other lizard, by its head or
tail. Collared Lizards can
inflict painful, skin-breaking
bites, so you may want to wear
protective gloves when
handling very nervous or
aggressive animals.
Always wash your hands
thoroughly before and after
handling a lizard.
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Bright Idea:
Under-tank pads should not
be used to heat the enclosure of
an
arboreal lizard, since this
animal spends much of its time
off
the ground. |
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Look Out For This:
Some Collared Lizards will not
take water from a bowl until
they
become acclimated to captivity.
However, these lizards will
readily
accept water droplets placed on
rocks, or water from an
eyedropper or
syringe. Collareds will more
likely recognize and take water
if it is
offered in a shallow bowl with
small rocks in it. (Always use
chlorine-free water.)
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Recommended
Collared Lizard Supplies:
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A top-opening glass or
custom enclosure with a
secure lid
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UVB emitting light
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Heat lamp for basking
area
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Three thermometers,
temperature can
monitored at both ends
of the enclosure and in
the basking area
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Substrate
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Shallow water dish
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Cork, bark or rocks for
climbing and hiding
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Silk plants and branches
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A moist hiding area
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