Collared Lizard
(Crotaphytus collaris)

Habitat
: Desert, Grassland or Prairie     Diet: Largely Carnivorous     Adult Size: 8-14 inches     Lifespan: 5-10 years     Native To: North America                       
 

Did You Know:

  • Unlike many lizards, the Collared Lizard cannot grow a new tail if its old one is broken off.

  • Collared Lizards are one of the fastest lizards, able to reach speeds of up to 16 miles per hour. They run on their hind legs, holding their bodies off the ground at a 45-degree angle with tail and forelimbs raised, giving them the appearance of miniature T-Rexes.

  • The Collared Lizard gets its name because the two black bands on its neck resemble a collar.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

Things You Should Know About The Collared Lizard

The Basics:

Lively, alert and wary, the Collared Lizard will often take a while to warm up to its human keeper. Although only medium in size, Collared Lizards have powerful jaws, and their bite is capable of breaking human skin. So care should be taken when handling them. However, they will grow to accept human handling over time, after gentle, measured and persistent overtures. In nature, Collared Lizards can be found in arid and semi-arid environments stretching from Missouri to California and down into Mexico. Most often they live in rocky areas. They typically grow to around a foot in length, with males being larger than females. Males are also more vividly colored than females, having a green or blue coloration with bands and small white spots, while the females are paler and grayer. A male's throat will also be brightly colored, often blue or
green and sometimes even orange. The belly of a Collared Lizard is much lighter than the back.

Enclosure:
They Need Space
:

Collareds are very active lizards, so they must be housed in
enclosures that offer ample room. A single Collared Lizard should have an enclosure that's at least the size of a 40-gallon aquarium, with adequate ventilation. However, a
larger enclosure is more desirable. Male Collared Lizards are very territorial, and should never be housed together. In nature, Collareds are very active predators that will readily
eat other lizards, so smaller animals must not be housed with them. This includes members of their own species, since Collareds are cannibalistic.

Climbing And Hiding Places Required:

Wild Collared Lizards enjoy climbing and basking on rocks. This natural environment must be replicated in their enclosure, with a larger rock or rock pile in the basking area of the tank. If a pile is used, care must be taken to ensure that the rocks are stable, so they will not topple on to the lizard. The top of the rock pile should provide a surface that's large enough to allow the lizard to bask comfortably. Since Collareds are often wary animals, their enclosures must include hide boxes or other places that provide them with a secure retreat. This area can be located in the cooler section of the enclosure.

Substrate:
Sand Works Best:
A Sanitized commercially available desert sand is the
preferred substrate, but Collared Lizards will also do well with alfalfa pellets, mulch, and paper as well as indoor/outdoor carpeting. Care should be taken to ensure that the lizard
does not eat the substrate in its enclosure. If this does happen, indoor/outdoor carpeting, paper or an edible substrate should be used.

Lighting:
UVB Lighting Is Absolutely Essential:

Collared lizards need exposure to UVB rays to produce vitamin D3, which is essential to the animal's ability to absorb calcium. Unlike people, lizards like the Collared cannot produce their own Vitamin D3, so they must depend on UVB rays. Without Vitamin D3, a Collared Lizard will not have a sufficient supply of calcium even if it is given a supplement, a condition that will lead to the development of a metabolic bone disease. UVB rays should be provided to the Collared Lizard by a fluorescent bulb that also provides UVA rays and operates on a 10-12 hour on/off cycle. There are a variety of full spectrum lights available at PSP that emit UVB light in combination with UVA light. Fluorescent lamps producing UVB rays should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. This light source should be within 12 inches of the animal. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Temperature:
They Like It Hot And Dry
:

Collared Lizards do best in an enclosure that is hot and
relatively dry. Daytime temperatures must range from the 75º to 90º (Fahrenheit) with a basking area with temperatures of 95º-105º Fahrenheit. (The basking area should include a basking rock or rock pile, with a heat lamp aimed at its highest point.) At night temperatures can be in the 73º to 85º range. Do not use “hot rocks,” which can harm the lizard skin in the basking area or anywhere in the enclosure. Also be sure that all rocks in the basking area are firmly secured in place, since falling rocks can crush this lizard. Heat can be provided by a combination of lamps. Nocturnal heat sources should be used to maintain temperature levels at night Three thermometers should monitor temperature, one in the warmer zone, one in the cooler zone and one in the basking area. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet: Mostly Meat:

Collared Lizards are primarily carnivores, but many will also eat plant matter, including collard greens, mustard greens, kale and zucchini. Meat should constitute the majority of the Collared Lizard's diet. Collared Lizards will eat commercially raised crickets, mealworms, earthworms, kingworms and roaches. (Wild caught insects should never be fed, since they can carry disease.) All insects should be gut loaded (fed 48-hours before being offered) and dusted with a supplement. Collared Lizards will also take pinkie feeder mice, but these should be fed sparingly because of their high fat content. Plant matter fed to the lizard must be washed, then cut or shred to make it easier to ingest. Uneaten food should be removed within three hours. Adults should be fed 3-4 times a week and juveniles daily. Offer adults 12-24 appropriately-sized crickets per feeding and juveniles 6-12. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

A Note About Gut Loading Feeding crickets a nutritious diet will pass on vital nutrients to your reptile. When reptiles eat these insects they are able to absorb the nutrients. This is why it is important to gut load crickets at least 48 hours before offering them to a reptile. Commercial cricket foods provide a convenient way to gut load crickets. (Always follow manufacturer’s directions.) Crickets should also be provided with water, preferably in the form of oranges or a commercial water gel product designed specifically to hydrate feeder insects. Putting a shallow dish of water in the cricket holding tank will result in insects drowning and promote the spread of bacteria.

You can also create your own gut-loading formula. Our vet recommends a mix of ground up dog food, cereal and fresh greens with oranges or a commercial gel for water.
Supplements: Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplements. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Follow product label directions when applying supplements, and avoid over-supplementing food. The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Our veterinarian recommends dusting insects with a plain calcium supplement every time they are offered to the pet. (Avoid using a calcium supplement with added phosphorous, unless specifically directed by your veterinarian, since this can promote kidney disease.) Our veterinarian also recommends dusting insects with a D3 supplement once a week and a vitamin supplement two times a month. This is only one recommendation, consult your veterinarian for specific directions on supplementing your pet’s food, since there are many variables that go into determining the best supplementing regimen for a given animal.
A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions
Water Clean fresh chlorine-free water must always be available to a Collared. This lizard does best with a shallow water bowl that includes small stones. If a Collared Lizard refuses to accept water from a bowl, droplets should be sprinkled on rocks. Collared lizards do best in enclosures that have 20-30 percent humidity levels.

How to Handle A Collared Lizard:
Naturally wary, Collared Lizards will often resist being handled initially. However, they can be won over eventually with patience and gentle persistence. Offering a Collared Lizard a mealworm or other treat, first with forceps then with the tips of your fingers will help them become acclimated to you. However, handling should not be forced on a Collared that remains reluctant to accept it.
When picking up a Collared Lizard, approach it low and from the side rather than from overhead. In nature, predatory birds approach lizards from above, so a lizard will understandably become defensive if you stand over it and reach down. Pick up the Collared Lizard by sliding one hand under it so you can straddle across its back and forelegs, while using the other hand to hold its hips and tail.
Don't grasp the Collared Lizard too hard, or make it feel restrained. At the same time, be alert to the fact that even a seemingly calm Collared Lizard can jump up and run away. Never pick up a Collared, or any other lizard, by its head or tail. Collared Lizards can inflict painful, skin-breaking bites, so you may want to wear protective gloves when handling very nervous or aggressive animals. Always wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling a lizard.
 
Bright Idea:
Under-tank pads should not be used to heat the enclosure of an arboreal lizard, since this animal spends much of its time off the ground.


Look Out For This:

Some Collared Lizards will not take water from a bowl until they become acclimated to captivity. However, these lizards will readily accept water droplets placed on rocks, or water from an eyedropper or syringe. Collareds will more likely recognize and take water if it is offered in a shallow bowl with small rocks in it. (Always use chlorine-free water.)


Recommended Collared Lizard Supplies:

  • A top-opening glass or custom enclosure with a secure lid

  • UVB emitting light

  • Heat lamp for basking area

  • Three thermometers, temperature can monitored at both ends of the enclosure and in the basking area

  • Substrate

  • Shallow water dish

  • Cork, bark or rocks for climbing and hiding

  • Silk plants and branches

  • A moist hiding area