Chinese Water Dragon
(Physignathus cocincinus)
Habitat: Humid Tropical and Subtropical Forests     Diet: Omnivorous    
Adult Size: Females around 2 feet long, Males up to 3 feet     Lifespan: 10-20 years    
Native To: Southeast Asia

Did You Know:

  • Also known as the Green Water Dragon, this semi-aquatic lizard likes to bask on
    a tree branch over a river, so that when approached he can jump into the water
    and swim away from predators.

  • These strong swimmers can remain underwater for up to half an hour. They can
    also run on their hind legs.

  • Water Dragons have a light sensitive “third eye” on the top of their heads, visible
    as a shiny spot about the size of a pinhead. Known as the parietal eye, it controls
    hormone production and helps the animal regulate the amount of time it basks in
    the sun.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

Things You Should Know About The Chinese Water Dragon

The Basics:

Chinese Water Dragons measure 4-5” at birth, growing to 2-3’ by the time they reach maturity at two years of age. Their skin color varies from a very dark to a lighter green, with green or turquoise stripes. The belly is white or yellow, and the throat yellow or orange. A less common Australian species of Water Dragon is occasionally seen as a pet. Brown in color, the Australian Water Dragon (Physignathus lesueurii) has
similar care needs to its Chinese counterpart.

Enclosure:
The Bigger, The Better:

While hatchlings can live temporarily in a 20 gallon
tank, adults need an enclosure with solid, opaque sides measuring at least 6’ long x 3’ wide x 5-6’ high. When housed in an enclosure that’s too small or made of glass, Chinese
Water Dragons will eventually rub the flesh off their snouts trying to get out. One glass or screen mesh side in the enclosure is acceptable, but the rest of the sides should be made from, or covered with, something non-reflective that they can’t see through.

A Place To Swim:

At least a third of the floor area should be devoted to a pool of chlorine-free water,, with the water temperature maintained around 77ºF. Often the heating method used to warm the enclosure is enough to keep the water at the correct temperature, but if necessary an aquarium heater can be used, or a heat mat can be placed under the pool. (Check the manufacturer’s instructions before using any heating appliance with a plastic pool.) The pool should be large enough for the animal to submerge at least the lower half of its body.
Substrate:
Keep It Easy To Clean: 		These creatures can be rather messy - though some
owners prefer the naturalistic look of sterilized potting soil, most appreciate the easy cleanup offered by Astroturf. Two pieces cut to the correct size can be switched out for
cleaning. It is also possible to use paper towels or butcher’s paper, replacing as necessary. If using potting soil, a brand without vermiculite or perlite must be used.

Lighting:
They Need To Soak Up The Ultraviolet Rays:

Chinese Water Dragons need direct exposure to UVB rays in order to synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. If not exposed to an adequate level of UVB lighting, they can develop Metabolic Bone Disease. UV lamps specifically designed for reptiles should be used, and fluorescent tubes should be replaced every six months. Since glass blocks UVB rays, if the enclosure does not have a screen mesh top, overhead light sources should be mounted inside the enclosure within 12 inches of the animal, behind a sturdy wire cover. To give the Water Dragon a natural day/night cycle, lights should be left on for 10-12 hours during the day and turned off at night. Lighting should never be left on overnight – constant light will cause the animal severe stress. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Temperature:
They Like It Hot:

Ambient temperature in the enclosure should be kept in the
80s during the day, with a basking spot of 90-95ºF. At night, the temperature can be allowed to drop to the mid to upper 70s. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
Mostly Meat: 		In addition to crickets, earthworms and mealworms, adult Chinese Water Dragons enjoy eating feeder mice and goldfish. Though mainly carnivorous, they can also eat some vegetables, such as shredded romaine lettuce and collard greens, or pieces of carrot, green beans and sweet potato. Adults should be fed every 2-3 days and babies should be fed daily. Offer adults 12-24 crickets per meal and babies 6-12 crickets.. All insects should be dusted with a reptile vitamin and calcium powder, and “gut loaded,” which entails feeding the insects 48 hours before the Water Dragon eats them. Never feed the animal wild-caught insects, as they can transmit disease. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:
A Note About Gut Loading Feeding crickets a nutritious diet will pass on vital nutrients to your reptile. When reptiles eat these insects they are able to absorb the nutrients. This is why it is important to gut load crickets at least 48 hours before offering them to a reptile. Commercial cricket foods provide a convenient way to gut load crickets. (Always follow manufacturer’s directions.) Crickets should also be provided with water, preferably in the form of oranges or a commercial water gel product designed specifically to hydrate feeder insects. Putting a shallow dish of water in the cricket holding tank will result in insects drowning and promote the spread of bacteria.

You can also create your own gut-loading formula. Our vet recommends a mix of ground up dog food, cereal and fresh greens with oranges or a commercial gel for water.
Supplements: Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplements. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Follow product label directions when applying supplements, and avoid over-supplementing food. The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Our veterinarian recommends dusting insects with a plain calcium supplement every time they are offered to the pet. (Avoid using a calcium supplement with added phosphorous, unless specifically directed by your veterinarian, since this can promote kidney disease.) Our veterinarian also recommends dusting insects with a D3 supplement once a week and a vitamin supplement two times a month. This is only one recommendation, consult your veterinarian for specific directions on supplementing your pet’s food, since there are many variables that go into determining the best supplementing regimen for a given animal.
A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions

Water:

Though they already have a large “swimming pool” in their enclosure, most Water Dragons will rarely drink from standing water, preferring to lap droplets of water from leaves. When misting the enclosure, be sure to direct the spray onto some large, flat leaves within reach of the animal and always use clean, fresh chlorine-free water. Humidity should be kept at a constant 60-80% by misting the enclosure. If the enclosure is too dry, the animal may have trouble shedding its skin. However, always make sure the basking area is dry.

How to Handle A Chinese Water Dragon:
Approach the Chinese Water Dragon calmly, and moving from the lizard's side, grab firmly around the neck with one hand, and around the waist with the other hand. Pull the lizard toward you, and tuck its rear legs and tail under your elbow to restrain its movement. Avoid holding the lizard close to your face, and point its mouth away from you. Never handle a Water Dragon by the tail, it could break off. Always wash your hands before and after handling a Chinese Water Dragon.
 


Look Out For This:
The Chinese Water Dragon is suitable only for experienced reptile keepers. Water dragons do not recognize glass as solid, so they will repeatedly bang and rub their snouts on any glass sides of their
enclosure in an attempt to get through, or try to attack the animal they see in the reflection. If a glass enclosure is used, its sides should be covered with a material that is non-transparent and non-reflective.


Recommended Chinese Water Dragon Supplies:

  • A large enclosure, non-transparent on three sides

  • A tub or large dish to serve as a pool

  • UVB emitting light source

  • Heat lamps, plus pool heating if necessary

  • Three thermometers, so temperature can be monitored at both ends of the enclosure and in the basking area

  • A water thermometer for the pool

  • Hygrometer to measure humidity

  • Substrate

  • Plants and sturdy branches, real or artificial

  • Plant mister