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The Basics: |
This strikingly colored
orange spotted skink is
the most popular of the
Schneider’s Skinks. It
is a relatively mellow,
non-aggressive skink
that becomes acclimated
to people, but handling
should be kept to a
minimum. |
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Enclosure:
Give Them
Space |
This is a relatively
active reptile that
needs space to engage in
its natural behavior. At
least a 50-gallon
aquarium with a secure
well-ventilated top is
recommended. (A pair can
be housed comfortably in
these quarters.)
Although this skink is
primarily terrestrial,
it will climb on low
rocks. Make sure rocks
are supported in place
to avoid crushing a
skink that digs beneath
them. Hiding places are
also recommended. The
enclosure should be
relatively humid.
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Substrate:
They Like
To Burrow
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Dampened tropical play
sand 3-4 inches deep so
the skink can bury
itself makes a good
substrate. Moss or mulch
can also be used. One
section of the substrate
should have small orchid
bark or cypress mulch to
hold moisture when
dampened. Always avoid
aromatic woods like
cedar. |
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Lighting:
UVB |
The Berber Skink needs
exposure to 12-14 hours
of UVB lighting per day.
Important - see
the Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Temperature:
A Range of Temperatures |
Provide the Berber Skink
with an ambient
temperature range of
73°-88° F during the
day, in addition to a
daytime basking area of
95° F (35 C) to 100٥. At
night the temperature
range can drop from the
mid 60°s to about 73°.
Position thermometers in
the basking area cool
spot and warm spot to
monitor temperatures.
Important - see the
Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and
Heating: |
All reptiles, including
this pet, must have
distinct day and night
periods in their
enclosure to maintain
their biological
rhythms. (See the
lighting entry above for
the specific length of
this animal’s day/night
cycle.) The day
period must be light;
and night must be dark.
A timer should be used
to set day/night
periods. If a heat
source is required to
maintain correct
nighttime temperatures,
use heat mats or strips
mounted below or on the
side of the tank,
infrared heat lamps,
ceramic heat emitters,
or a combination of
these products. This
will allow the enclosure
to be heated while
remaining dark. Follow
directions carefully
with all products. If
ceramic heat emitters
are used, always choose
fixtures with porcelain
or ceramic sockets, and
to protect against fires
do not place them by dry
wood or flammable
fabrics. Ceramic heat
emitters must be kept
out of the reach of
children and all pets,
including dogs and cats.
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Humidity: |
The skink’s enclosure should be
relatively arid, but a section of the
substrate should be dampened for
humidity. Provide a clean shallow bowl
of chlorine-free water for drinking and
soaking. |
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A NOTE ABOUT WATER: |
All water given to this
pet for drinking, as
well as water used for
misting, soaking or
bathing must be 100%
free of chlorine and
heavy metals. (Not all
home water filtration
systems remove 100% of
the chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. If
tap water is used, you
should treat it with a
dechlorinating treatment.
Do not use distilled
water, which can cause
severe medical problems,
since it lacks minerals
that are essential to
important body
functions. |
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Diet: |
They are omnivores,
eating plant matter and
insects, more insects
than plant matter.
Crickets, mealworms,
super worms, waxworms
work as the meat portion
of their diet. Larger
specimens can have pinkie
mice. Plant matter
should be offered daily
to every other day, feed
them kale, collard
greens, legumes,
carrots, squash, mashed
fruits. The skink should
be fed insects 2-3 times
a week. |
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Supplements:
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Dust insects with
calcium supplement and
vitamin supplements. As
a rule, a growing
juvenile's food should
be dusted more often
than an adult's. Follow
product label directions
when applying
supplements, and avoid
over-supplementing food.
The following is a
possible supplementing
schedule for this
reptile.
Our veterinarian
recommends dusting
insects with a plain
calcium supplement every
time they are offered to
the pet. (Avoid using a
calcium supplement with
added phosphorous,
unless specifically
directed by your
veterinarian, since this
can promote kidney
disease.) Our
veterinarian also
recommends dusting
insects with a D3
supplement once a week
and a vitamin supplement
two times a month. This
is only one
recommendation, consult
your veterinarian for
specific directions on
supplementing your pet’s
food, since there are
many variables that go
into determining the
best supplementing
regimen for a given
animal. |