The Basics:

A friendly, alert and hardy animal, the Barking Treefrog has become a popular pet with amphibian keepers of all ages and experience levels. This is a nocturnal frog, which is most active after sundown. Large and pudgy by treefrog standards, it has granular skin that is typically bright green in color with dark spots. Within minutes, it can change its coloration to brown, gray or dark green. Round pads on the Barking Treefrog’s toes allow it to climb up trees, walls and vertical glass surfaces with relative ease. This is a sociable, calm frog; so more than one specimen can be housed together. Males usually have “baggier” throats than females, and their throats also often show a splash of yellow coloration. Most specimens available to the retail pet trade are wild-caught males.

Enclosure:
They Need A Place To Hide:

Being nocturnal animals, Barking Treefrogs must have ready access to a secluded hideaway in their enclosure, where they can go to sleep during the day, and find reassurance whenever they become frightened. Hiding places are usually created by putting dense foliage (real or artificial) in the enclosure. Since Barking Treefrogs also like to climb, their enclosures should have plenty of solid branches and perches. Climbing branches and perches should be at least twice the diameter of the Barking Treefrog’s girth. The enclosure itself should be at least a 20-gallon aquarium tank for up to three adults. Since Barking Treefrogs are climbers, the enclosure must be vertically oriented (taller than it is wide). A Barking Treefrog’s enclosure should always be at least 20 inches in height. A screen top should be placed over the tank to provide ventilation. This top must be very secure to prevent escapes. Placing aquarium backgrounds or other opaque material on three sides of the enclosure will make the frog feel more secure and reduce stress.

Substrate:
They Do Best With Material That Retains Humidity:

Since Barking Treefrogs need a humid environment, they do best with a substrate that retains moisture, such as organic mulch, reptile barks, coconut fiber and peat. Avoid aromatic wood substrate, since this can cause serious and even fatal health risks. Substrate must be inspected daily, so soiled material can be removed. Reptile carpet substrate should not be used with Barking Treefrogs, since its rough surface can irritate a frog’s skin.

Temperature:
A Moderate Climate is Best For Them:

A Barking Treefrog’s enclosure should be in the mid to upper 70s in the day, then drop to the mid-60s at night. This can best be provided by regulating the temperature of the enclosure’s room, rather than the enclosure itself. However, a thermal gradient ranging from the low to upper 70s can be provided by positioning a low wattage bulb over a section of the tank during the winter months. Care must be taken when using external lamps not to overheat the enclosure. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Lighting:
Exposure To UVB Rays Contributes To Their Health:

A 12-hour on/off light cycle is essential to the health of Barking Treefrogs. Too much light exposure will be detrimental to the well-being of these nocturnal animals. Although they are nocturnal, Barking Treefrogs still benefit from limited exposure to UVB rays on a daily basis. Barking Treefrogs should be exposed to supplemental UVB light using a fluorescent bulb designed for a frog terrarium. The fluorescent bulb should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

This pet must have distinct day and night periods in its enclosure to maintain its biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats. 

Diet:
They Are Hearty Insect Eaters:

Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplements. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Follow product label directions when applying supplements, and avoid over-supplementing food.  Too much calcium can contribute to calcification and indirectly to gout. The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this pet. Our veterinarian recommends dusting insects with a plain calcium supplement every other feeding to every feeding. (Avoid using a calcium supplement with added phosphorous, unless specifically directed by your veterinarian, since this can promote kidney disease.) Our veterinarian also recommends dusting insects with a D3 supplement once a week and a vitamin supplement two times a month. This is only one recommendation, consult your veterinarian for specific directions on supplementing your pet’s food, since there are many variables that go into determining the best supplementing regimen for a given animal.

Water and Humidity:

Barking Treefrogs require high levels of humidity, generally in the 50-75 percent range. This can be maintained by misting the frog daily with chlorine-free water and keeping a large bowl of clean, fresh filtered water free of chlorine and heavy metals in the enclosure. Part of the enclosure should be kept dry to provide a drying area for the frog. The water in this bowl should be very shallow (about 1- 1.5 inches). Maintaining water levels well below the rim of the bowl will minimize spillage to keep the enclosure drier and more sanitary.