Asian Box Turtle
(Also called Malayan Box Turtle)

(Cuora amboinenis)

Habitat
: Semi Aquatic     Diet: Omnivorous     Adult Size: 6-8 inches    
Lifespan
: 30 years or more     Native To: Southeast Asia 

Did You Know:

  • When threatened, the Asian Box Turtle can become completely enclosed within its shell, not allowing even a small opening for a would-be predator to reach in and cause harm. It is able to do this, because its plastron (lower shell) is hinged in the middle. By raising the front and rear sections to meet its carapace (upper shell), the turtle is able to shield itself from harm.

  • Unlike other boxed turtles, which stay primarily on land, the Asian Box Turtle is semi aquatic.

  • The Asian Box Turtle doesn’t reach sexual maturity until the age of four or five. Prior to that time, it’s very difficult to distinguish between males and females.
     

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

Things You Should Know About Asian Box Turtle

The Basics:

Also called the “Malayan Box Turtle” and the “Amboina Box Turtle,” this hardy pet has a dark olive or black head with distinctive yellow facial stripes and a high-domed shell. Like most turtles, it is relatively long-lived, provided it is given proper care. Although some specimens may grow to ten inches or more, most are two or three inches smaller. Compared to many other boxed turtles, the Asian Box Turtles are mellow animals that rarely snap. Some turtle keepers say that this species will follow a person around for food. In nature, Asian Box Turtles can be found in the dense vegetation at the edge of equatorial wetlands, and in the water.

A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for swimming or misting must be free of chlorine and heavy metals. We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions

Enclosure:

Asian Box Turtles need to spend a lot of time in water, so they must have a semi aquatic tank. At least half of their tank space must be covered by water. The water must be deep enough for the turtle to submerge itself, but not too deep, since Asian Box Turtles are not accomplished swimmers. A depth of 6-7 inches for adults and 2 inches for juveniles will allow the turtle to stop and stand, while putting its head above water. Rocks should be used to create “resting islands” in the aquatic area. The dry area of the tank should have a sloped surface making it easy for the turtle to exit the water. An alternative is to have rocks arranged in steps leading out of the water to the dry area. Basking rocks should be placed in the dry area of the enclosure, since these turtles love to soak up heat and light rays when out of the water. A shelter or hide box should also be provided. The enclosure must be spacious to accommodate this active turtle, a minimum 40-gallon tank is recommended for one adult and 60-gallons for two. Tanks should be horizontally oriented, longer than they are high.

Substrate:

A mixture of slightly damp sterilized sand and soil, about three inches deep serves as a good foundation for the dry area of the enclosure. Finely shredded bark mulch (avoid cedar and pine) can be used with the soil/sand covering. Care must be taken to keep substrate dry to protect against infections. Inspect the substrate daily, and change it regularly to prevent the build up of bacteria.

Temperature:

Compared to other box turtles, the Asian Box Turtle requires a warm enclosure. Water temperatures in their enclosures must be in the 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit range. Colder temperatures will discourage the turtles from entering the water, causing stress and promoting medical problems. Ambient temperature in the dry area should be around 78 degrees. It’s essential to provide a basking spot with a temperature of 88-90 degrees. Temperature levels can be maintained through the use of under tank mats, controlled by a thermostat or rheostat and an overhead basking lamp. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using heat producing products. Since maintaining the proper temperature is so critical to the health of Asian Box Turtles, it should never be guessed. Digital thermometers should be placed in the water, about two inches over the surface of the dry area substrate and in the basking area. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Lighting:

Vitamin D3 is essential to the Asian Box Turtle’s ability to absorb the calcium it needs to maintain its skeletal system, including its shell. In nature the turtle obtains vitamin D3 through its exposure to sunlight. This must be replicated in the enclosure through the use of UV lights designed specifically for terrariums. Fluorescent reptile UVB emitting bulbs should be placed over the enclosure and left on 12 hours a day. More light exposure can cause stress in the turtle. This bulb should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top.  Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:

Asian Box Turtles are rarely picky eaters. In fact, they will eat just about any food that comes their way. To ensure their health, they should be offered wholesome choices. A good varied diet includes commercial turtle food, shredded carrots, kale, romaine lettuce, green beans, corn, orange squash, collard greens, dandelions, straw-berries, black berries and plums as well as some live feeder fish, king mealworms, gut loaded crickets, superworms, finely chopped cooked chicken. Meat shouldn’t make up more than about 10 percent of a full-grown Asian Box Turtle’s diet—young animals can eat more animal matter. Spinach, parsley and rhubarb should be avoided since they can lower calcium levels in the body. Since they are prone to weight gain, Asian Box Turtles should be on a careful feeding schedule. Juveniles should be fed 6-12 insects (depending on size) and a small plate of vegetables/greens once a day or every other day. Adults should be fed a small bowl of vegetables/greens with a 10% portion of insects/protien 2-3 times a week. Cuttlebone can be provided on a regular basis to protect against calcium deficiencies. If a turtle cannot close its shell it is obese, and it is time for more vegetables and less fruit. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

A Note About Gut Loading Feeding crickets a nutritious diet will pass on vital nutrients to your reptile. When reptiles eat these insects they are able to absorb the nutrients. This is why it is important to gut load crickets at least 48 hours before offering them to a reptile. Commercial cricket foods provide a convenient way to gut load crickets. (Always follow manufacturer’s directions.) Crickets should also be provided with water, preferably in the form of oranges or a commercial water gel product designed specifically to hydrate feeder insects. Putting a shallow dish of water in the cricket holding tank will result in insects drowning and promote the spread of bacteria.

You can also create your own gut-loading formula. Our vet recommends a mix of ground up dog food, cereal and fresh greens with oranges or a commercial gel for water.
Supplements:

This pet eats plant and animal matter. The insects offered to it should be dusted with a plain calcium supplement. Either the insects or plant matter offered to it should also be dusted with vitamin supplements. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Follow product label directions when applying supplements, and avoid over-supplementing food.

Our veterinarian recommends dusting insects with a plain calcium supplement every time they are offered to the pet. (Avoid using a calcium supplement with added phosphorous, unless specifically directed by your veterinarian, since this can promote kidney disease.) Our veterinarian also recommends dusting either insects or plant matter with a D3 supplement once a week and a vitamin supplement two times a month. This is only one recommendation, consult your veterinarian for specific directions on supplementing your pet’s food, since there are many variables that go into determining the best supplementing regimen for a given animal.

Water & Humidity:

Since they come from a tropical environment, it isn’t surprising that Asian Box Turtles require an enclosure with a high humidity level, at least 70 percent, and up to 90 percent. This can be maintained by securing a non-screen lid over half the tank, and through daily misting of the dry area with water that is free of chlorine and other heavy metals.. However, care should be taken to keep half the tank top screened, rather than closed, to allow adequate ventilation. Water in the tank should be filtered by an aquarium filter (canisters work well), and changed daily to keep it clean and fresh. Asian Box Turtles spend much of their time in the water. Although they will take food in the dry area of an enclosure or the water, many prefer the latter. Uneaten food should be removed from the water after the turtle has finished its meal to discourage the growth of bacteria.


How to Handle an Asian Box Turtle:
Pick up a turtle with both hands wrapped around its shell. Your hands should be supporting the animal, since turtles feel more secure when they feel something solid beneath their feet. Always wash your hands, and rinse them after handling any turtle. Do not handle a turtle if you have open wounds or sores on your hands.

Bright Idea:
It’s easier to keep a turtle’s water clean in a larger tank than a smaller one.
 

Caution:
Box turtles can sometimes be prone to vitamin A deficiencies. This results in “puffy eye syndrome,” which can be treated by warming the turtle and giving it Vitamin A supplements. If enough dark greens & orange vegetables are fed they will supply adequate Vitamin A.

Look Out For This:
These turtles require a semi-aquatic tank. They will consume a large volume of water for their size. They use the water to “flush” their systems, having it pass through their bodies quickly. It is necessary to change their water daily, or use an effective filtration system to keep them from taking in dirty water. The water in their enclosure must also be kept relatively warm.


Recommended Asian Box Turtle Supplies:

  • A large enclosure capable of containing a water covered area

  • Climbing rocks

  • Foliage in the form of life or artificial plants

  • Hiding places in the form of curved corkboard

  • Rocks to create "islands" in the wet area

  • A large but shallow water dish with climbing stones for exiting

  • A suitable substrate to cover the gravel

  • A UVB Reptile fluorescent light source

  • Three thermometers

  • A thermostat or rheostat

  • A hygrometer

  • A misting bottle

Bright Idea:
Wait until Turtles have been up for a few hours in the morning before feeding them. This will give them a few hours to warm up and aid in the digestion process.