The Basics:

The Western Green Lizard is found in southern Europe, from Portugal to the Italian Alps, while the Eastern Green Lizard lives in Germany, the Balkans and the southern Ukraine. Although the two species share much in common, particularly in regards to their care, the Western Green Lizard is less outgoing than its eastern cousin. Males of both species are somewhat larger and more brightly colored than females.
About two-thirds of their body length is tail. Like many lizards, they will lose their tails to avoid capture. Males of the species are territorial and should not be housed in the same
enclosure. Even females can become aggressive with other lizards, so it is best to house this pet alone. A diurnal animal, it is most active during the day. It also enjoys climbing
on rocks and branches. In nature, both species tend to live in forests and scrub land with dense vegetation.

Enclosure:
Vertical Space:

Active animals, green lizards of both species need at least a
20-gallon aquarium with a well ventilated top. The enclosure should have a screened top and climbing branches as well as rocks and plants. Climbing rocks should be held securely in place to avoid injuring the lizard. Rocks should be placed on the base of the enclosure before substrate is added to prevent the lizards from digging under them. Acceptable plants include ivy, heathers, thyme and sedum. Cork bark or imitation rock caves should also be provided for hiding areas. As a desirable alternative to an aquarium tank, the green lizard's keeper can house the pet in a custom enclosure with wire mesh covering part of one side to promote airflow. (Basking lamps should be positioned above the area that has this mesh side.) A green lizard's enclosure should open from the front.

Substrate:
Burrowing Material:

Green lizards are burrowing animals, so the substrate used
in at least part of their enclosure should provide them with an opportunity to dig. A 2-3 inch layer of sanitized soil, sand, mulch or reptile bark makes a good substrate. Aromatic
wood shavings such as cedar should always be avoided, since their fumes promote respiratory problems in lizards.

Temperature:
Relatively Wide Thermal Gradient:

The green lizard's enclosure should offer a thermal gradient that will allow it to regulate its body temperature by moving from spot to spot. During the day, this gradient should range from the mid 70s to the mid 80s, with a basking area of around 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit. At night, the enclosure temperature can be reduced to the mid 60s. Heat lamps can be used to maintain the desired thermal gradient, while a lamp can heat the basking spot. Under tank heaters can also be used. Nighttime temperatures can be maintained by using under tank heaters or ceramic heat emitters, which do not produce light. Follow directions carefully with ceramic heat
emitters, use fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires, do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Thermometers should be positioned in the
warmer and cooler areas of the enclosure as well as in the basking spot. Enclosure temperatures should be monitored at branch level as well as ground level.

Humidity:
Drier Than Enclosures Than Other Lizards:

Unlike many lizards, which require high humidity levels, green lizards do best when the humidity is kept around 35 to 50 percent. A green lizard's enclosure should also be well ventilated, since airflow is essential to this lizard's health. Clean fresh chlorine-free water in a shallow bowl for drinking should always be available. Plants should be misted once or twice a day, since a green lizard may prefer to drink by taking water droplets, rather than going to a bowl.

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Insects should be  dusted with calcium and vitamin supplements every third or fourth feeding. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.