The Basics:

Veiled Chameleons measure 2-3” at birth, females growing to 10-14” and males around 17-24” by the time they reach maturity at four to five months of age. At birth, the Veiled Chameleon is pastel green, but as it matures it develops bands of bright gold, green and blue mixed with yellow, orange and black. Males are more colorful than
females. They are solitary lizards that can easily become stressed if housed with other animals. Never keep two males together, but a male Veiled Chameleon can co-exist with
one or two females, provided the enclosure offers enough space. In nature, the Veiled Chameleon can be found widely different environments, from tropical and subtropical plateaus to semi-desert valleys.

Enclosure:
Cross Ventilation Is Key:

The enclosure needs to be tall enough for climbing and
spacious enough to provide a thermal gradient. For an adult chameleon, the minimum size should be 4’ long x 3’ wide x 4’ high. Enclosures made entirely of glass, such as
aquarium tanks, should be avoided even if they have a screen top. A Veiled Chameleon needs the cross-ventilation provided by a wire mesh enclosure. Arboreal or tree-dwelling
creatures, Veiled Chameleons must be provided with plenty of climbing branches. Since their feet are shaped to cling to branches and they dislike walking on flat surfaces, they
need plenty of dense plants in the enclosure. Provide enough branches to offer sleeping spots, basking spots and perches. To offer adequate support, all climbing branches should
be at least as wide as the lizard's body. Smaller branches can be lashed together with cable ties, cutting off the excess so that the animals are not injured by sharp edges. If real
plants are used, they must be non-toxic and care should be taken to remove all traces of
fertilizers and chemicals.

Substrate:
Use Only Paper:

Newspaper or butcher’s paper can be cut to size and replaced
when soiled. Never use sand or gravel – when catching insects, the chameleon’s sticky tongue may accidentally pick up loose substrate, leading to intestinal blockages

Temperature:
They Like It Hot:

The enclosure should have an ambient temperature of 80-
85ºF during the day, with a basking spot of 90-100ºF. Nighttime temperatures should be in the low 70's. Without this source of heat, they will develop respiratory or digestive problems. Heat can be supplied by a combination of
heat lamps and incandescent bulbs. Being tree-dwellers, Veiled Chameleons do not benefit at all from underfloor heating. Temperatures should be monitored by three
thermometers: one in the warmer zone, one in the cooler zone and one in the basking area.

Diet:
A Variety Of Foods:

Crickets are the staple of the Veiled Chameleon's staple diet, but this lizard should be fed a variety of insects. As an adult, it should also be given vegetable matter such as romaine and mustard greens. Insects offered should include
mealworms, night crawlers, cockroaches and waxworms. Mealworms and waxworms should be given only as special treats, because of their high fat content. Never feed the
animal wild-caught insects, since they can contain pesticides and harbor harmful bacteria. All insects should be  “gut loaded,” which entails feeding the insects 48 hours before the chameleon eats them and dusted with supplements. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Dust insects with a calcium supplement every feeding for juveniles, ever other feeding for adults. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.