The Basics:

Also known as the Chilean Rose Tarantula, since this is where most specimens have been found, this attractive animal is one of the most popular terrarium pets. It is relatively large, with a leg span reaching up to five inches and colorful; its dark
body covered with fine pink or reddish-orange hairs. A hardy animal, it does well in captivity, provided it receives proper care. Although they’re considered docile by Tarantula standards, they should be handled carefully and only when necessary, since they can bite and flick their hairs. Like all Tarantulas, they are aggressive toward one another, and so should never be housed together. Most specimens sold through the retail pet trade are captive bred. A nocturnal hunter, the Rose Hair Tarantula can be found in scrublands in its natural environment.

Enclosure:
They Do Fine In Relatively Small Spaces :

Rose Hair Tarantulas are relatively docile and inactive, so they will do quite well in a 10-gallon tank. It is important to house
only one specimen in each tank, since they are aggressive toward one another. These spiders do not need a lot of height in their enclosures, so their tanks should be horizontally oriented. A hollow log or cork bark should be placed in the enclosure to provide a hiding area. Artificial vines or plants can be provided for climbing, and an added sense of security.

Substrate:
Burrowing Opportunities Are Important To Them:

Roughly two inches of substrate should cover the floor of the Rose Hair Tarantula’s enclosure to provide an opportunity for them to retreat to a shallow burrow. Sterilized potting soil, sphagnum moss, orchid bark and commercial reptile bark make good substrate choices. The substrate should be kept slightly moist to assist in maintaining humidity levels, but water should not be allowed to collect on its surface, since this can harm the Tarantula’s legs. Pine, cedar and other aromatic woods should never be used as substrates. Inspect the substrate daily, and change it regularly to prevent the build up of bacteria.

Temperature:
They Like It Warm But Not To Hot:

A consistent temperature between 75 and 83 degrees Fahrenheit works well for Rose Hair Tarantulas, but they can tolerate lower temperatures. In many cases, this can be maintained by controlling ambient room temperature. If necessary an under tank heat pad, positioned below one end of the tank can be used. However, care must be taken not to overheat or “dry out” the enclosure. The under tank pad should be controlled by a thermostat or rheostat. Always follow
manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using heat-producing products. Since maintaining the proper temperature is so critical to the health of the Rose Hair Tarantula,
it should never be guessed. A thermometer should be placed about two inches over the surface in the middle of the tank.

Lighting:
They Should Not Be Overexposed To Light:

Rose Hair Tarantulas need a regular photoperiod of about 8 hours of light daily. It is important to avoid exposing them to
more prolonged periods of light, or light that is too bright (their enclosures should never be put in direct sunlight.) Artificial light should be controlled through a timer. For nighttime viewing use a low wattage red lamp.

Diet:
They Eat Crickets:

The mainstay of a Rose Hair Tarantula’s diet should be gutloaded crickets. Young spiderlings should be given pinhead crickets. Grasshoppers and locusts are also good choices. Live insects should be offered to the Tarantula two times a week.

Water & Humidity:

A water bowl filled with cotton or filter wadding equal to the size of the tarantula’s body must be provided for drinking. The tarantula will drink by climbing on to the filter and sipping water through the base of its fangs, which serve as its mouth.
It is essential that humidity levels be maintained at 60-80 percent. When the humidity level falls into the low 50s, it poses a serious heath risk to the Rose Hair Tarantula.
Humidity levels can be maintained through misting and the use of a water bowl. Always be careful not to over humidify an enclosure. Water will not build up on the side of the
enclosure or the surface of the substrate, when humidity levels are maintained properly. Use a hygrometer to measure humidity levels.