The Basics:

The famous tomato red eyes from which this frog gets its name make it one of the most attractive amphibian pets. The colorful eyes also serve an important survival purpose in nature. When this frog sleeps during the day, its eyes are covered by a membrane. If a predator awakens the frog, it will open its eyes wide. The bright red color startles the attacker, buying the agile Red-Eyed Treefrog time to hop away. The long limbs and suction pad toes make the Red-Eyed Treefrog more suited for climbing than swimming. It spends most of its time in trees and is less comfortable on the ground. A communal animal, it does better when kept in groups rather than alone. Females are about 33% larger than males.

Enclosure:
Tall Tanks Suit Them Best:

Red-Eyed Treefrogs love to climb, so they need a vertically oriented tank with plenty of climbing branches and sturdy broad leafed nontoxic plants such as philodendron, pothos and anthurium. Plants acquired from nurseries must be cleaned and re-soiled to remove toxic fertilizers. Take potted plants out of the enclosure whenever it is cleaned; their leaves should be washed with water. Also remove waste from the top soil of potted plants. A pair of Red-Eyed Treefrogs should have at least a 20-gallon aquarium tank, with 10 gallons of size being added for each additional frog. The tank should be securely covered with a top that's half screen (for ventilation) and half glass to retain humidity. Climbing branches should be arranged diagonally in the tank to make it easy for the frogs to climb.

Substrate:
They Need Material That Supports High Humidity Levels:

The Red-Eyed Treefrog's enclosure should be lined with about 4 inches of a substrate that can support high humidity levels such as sphagnum moss or orchid bark. Damp towels are also an acceptable substrate. Avoid aromatic wood substrates since they can cause serious and even fatal health risks. Substrates must be inspected daily, so soiled material can be removed.

Temperature:
Room Temperature Typically Works for Them:

The Red-Eyed Treefrog needs a daytime temperature of about 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and low 70s at night. This can often be achieved by regulating the temperature in the room housing the enclosure, but care must be taken to avoid overheating in the summer. If an external heat source is needed to provide heat, it shouldn't be larger than a 20-watt incandescent bulb. Even in this case, the temperature must be monitored carefully to be sure the temperature doesn't rise too much. Aside from overheating the frog, an external heat source can result in dangerously low humidity levels. Never guess the temperature. Position two thermometers in the enclosure at branch level where the frog spends most of its time, one thermometer should be placed near the heat source, and the other in a cooler section of the tank. An enclosure should never be positioned in direct sunlight.

Lighting:
They Should Have UVB Exposure:

Although they sleep during the day, Red-Eyed Treefrogs are exposed to ultraviolet rays in their natural habitats. Red-Eyed Tree Frogs should be exposed to supplemental low-output UVB light. This can be accomplished by using a fluorescent lamp designed for frog terrariums. The fluorescent bulb should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top.

Diet:
Insects Are Their Staple:

In nature Red-Eyed Treefrogs are opportunistic nocturnal
hunters that will feed on a variety of insects and invertebrates, and will even eat other, smaller frogs. Captive specimens do well on a steady diet of gut loaded insects dusted with a supplement, primarily crickets. Adults should be fed 2-3 crickets every other day. Growing juveniles should be given as many crickets as they can consume on a daily basis. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplement. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Consult product label and outside literature for specific instructions on supplementing. Avoid over-supplementing.

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Dust food with a calcium/vitamin supplement once a week for adults, twice a week for juveniles. Be careful not to “over supplement” a frog’s food, since too much calcium can cause gout and calcification. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.

Water & Humidity:

Like all frogs, Red-Eyed Treefrogs require a relatively high level of humidity, around 50-60 percent, throughout most of the year, and up to 70-80% in the summer. Adequate ventilation must be maintained in the tank to avoid promoting
bacterial growth, despite high humidity levels. The enclosure can be humidified with twice daily misting. Clean, fresh water free of chlorine and heavy metals should be used in misting and in a large shallow water bowl placed in the frog’s enclosure. The water level in the bowl should be relatively shallow, and a climbing branch should be placed in the bowl to make it easy for the frog to climb out of the water. Although they’re very agile and adept at climbing, Red-Eyed Treefrogs are not good swimmers. Since maintaining proper humidity levels is so important to the health of this frog, it is essential to use a hygrometer to measure them in its enclosure.