Red-Eared Slider
(Trachemys scripta elegans) or (Chrysemys scripta elegans)
Habitat
: Semi Aquatic    Diet: Omnivorous    Adult Size: 8 - 10 inches    Lifespan: 20 - 40 years
Native To: North America

Did You Know:

  • These turtles get their name from the red/brownish stripes typically found behind their eyes and their uncanny ability to slide off a basking rock or log very quickly as soon as a threat approaches.

  • Although they have good vision, Red-Eared Sliders have very poor hearing, but they make up for this by being very sensitive to vibrations. This aids them in detecting predators, and in communicating with each other.

  • Red-Eared Slider eggs incubated at cooler temperatures almost always become males, while those incubated at warmer temperatures become females.

What You Should Know About Red-Eared Slider Turtles

The Basics:

An attractive and hardy animal, the Red-Eared Slider has traditionally ranked among the most popular amphibian pets. Unfortunately, inexperienced keepers sometimes make the mistake of thinking that this is a "simple" pet to care for, which results in a needlessly short lifespan for the turtle. Although not overly demanding, the Red-Eared Slider does require a commitment on the part of its owner. If cared for
properly, this turtle can live for over 25 years. There are reports of some specimens living past 40. Relatively large turtles, they typically are 8-10 inches long, but some can reach 12 inches. Males are smaller than females, and have longer thicker tails. Most Red-Eared Sliders have the trademark reddish/brown stripe of their eyes, but some do not exhibit these markings. When young, they have a green shell, but it darkens with age. Diurnal animals, Red-Eared Sliders are active during the day. In nature, they sleep in the water at
night either at the bottom or floating at the surface.

Enclosure:
They Need A  Lot of Swimming Space
:

The web-footed Red-Eared Slider is an excellent swimmer. So, it needs a lot of space to paddle through the water. It also needs to have constant access to a dry basking area. A single Red-Eared Slider should have at least a 100-gallon aquarium, and a pair a 125-gallon tank. Between one half and two thirds of the tank should be filled with water. This water should range in depth from 2-3 inches at its shallowest point to 1.5 to 2 times the turtle's body length at its deepest. So a
5-inch young turtle should have water that's 7.5-10 inches deep at its deepest point, and a 10-inch adult should have a maximum water depth of 15-20 inches. There must be
enough space between the water surface and the top of the tank to prevent the turtle from escaping. The enclosure must also have a secure tight-fitting screened lid. Although
they're great swimmers, Red-Eared Sliders will never win a gold medal for climbing, so a sloped surface must be included in the enclosure to help the move from water to dry land.
Any combination of smooth aquarium rock, Plexiglas ramps, anchored cork and logs can be used to create this slope. It's also a good idea to have anchored cork or log platforms in
the middle of the wet area that turtles can use as resting spots. Rough rocks must not be used, since they can scratch shells, opening the way for bacterial infections. The dry land
section of the enclosure should have smooth rocks, and commercially available driftwood for basking spots. Non-toxic live or artificial plants should be provided to enhance the
turtle's sense of security.

Substrate:
Slate and Smooth Rocks Work Well
:

Red-Eared Sliders have relatively simple substrate needs. Slate, smooth rocks or gravel that is too large to fit in the turtle's mouth make good substrate choices. Substrates must be inspected daily, so soiled material can be removed.

Temperature:
They Must Be Able To Bask:

When not in the water, Red Eared Sliders spend a
great deal of time basking. So, their enclosure must offer a spacious, dry basking spot with a temperature of 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit. This can be created through the use of a
supplemental external basking lamp positioned over the tank's tightly fitting screen top. Follow manufacturer's directions carefully when using the lamp and use a timer to avoid
overheating the enclosure. Ambient air temperatures in the enclosure should range between 75 and 80 degrees and water temperature should be between 72 and 76. Nighttime temperatures should be in the low 70;s. Temperatures can be maintained through the use of under tank heat pads and water heaters (again, follow manufacturer's directions). Heat sources should be controlled by a thermostat or rheostat. Never guess the temperature. Install thermometers in the water, near the drying area surface and in the basking area.

Lighting:
UVB Exposure Is Essential
:

Red-Eared Sliders must be exposed to UVB light 12
hours a day. This should be provided by a reptile fluorescent lamp designed specifically for terrarium use that emits UVB rays. The fluorescent bulb should be replaced every six
months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. Exposure to UVB is necessary, if the
turtle is to receive the amount of vitamin D needed for the metabolism of calcium, which is essential to the development of a healthy skeletal system, including the shell.

Diet:
Young Turtles And Adults Have Different Food Requirements
:

Animal matter should make up 10% of the diet of an adult Red-Eared Sliders, but it should account for up to
40% of very young turtle's food intake. Adults should be fed three times a week, while youngsters (under six months) should be given food daily. Avoid giving adults too much
protein. Good foods include leafy lettuces, mustard greens, dandelion, carrots, zucchini, turnip greens, and aquatic vegetation such as water hyacinth and water lettuce. Aquatic
insects and feeder fish, such as guppies, aquatic snails and silkworms can also be offered, as can commercially prepared turtle food. Like people, Red-Eared Sliders do best when
they eat a variety of nutritious foods. Offer only as much as the turtle can consume in one feeding session. Remove any uneaten food from the enclosure. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

Supplements: Dust food with calcium supplement and vitamin supplement. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Consult product labels and outside literature for specific instructions on supplementing. Cuttlebone can also be left in tank for calcium. Avoid over-supplementing food.

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Dust food with a calcium/vitamin supplement twice a week. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.

A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be free of chlorine and heavy metals. We recommend that you use bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment or allow it to stand for  at least 24 hours before being introduced to the pet's enclosure to allow the chlorine to escape. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.

Water & Humidity:

The Red-Eared Slider will drink water while it swims. This makes it essential to maintain clean water in its enclosure. Water must be cleaned daily to remove waste and uneaten food. About 25-percent of the water in the enclosure should be siphoned out and replaced every week. Depending on the size and "neatness" of the turtle, the water should be drained completely and replaced every month or two. When
replacing water, make sure it is close to the same temperature as the water currently in the tank. Clean filtered water, free of chlorine and heavy metals should always be used in a Red-Eared Slider's enclosure.A canister filter should be installed in the tank to keep the water clean. Water changes must still be made, even if a canister is used.


The shell of a turtle is made of ribs that are joined and covered with a thin layer of skin. Each rib consists of jigsaw-like sections, which grow at the edges. Thanks to these structures called "scutes," the shell is able to increase in size as the turtle grows. This keeps the animal from outgrowing its protective covering.

Bright Idea:
When selecting a semi-aquatic tank, always follow the "bigger is better" rule. Not only is it less work to keep the water clean in a larger tank, it's also easier to maintain a thermal gradient.


How to Handle a Red-Eared Slider:
Pick up a turtle with both hands wrapped around its shell. Be sure to keep your hands away from the turtle's face, since it may try to bite you. Support the turtle from below with your hands. Turtles feel more secure when they feel something solid beneath their feet. Always wash your hands, and rinse them after handling any turtle. Do not handle a turtle if you have open wounds or sores on your hands.


Look Out For This:

In the past, wild-caught Red-Eared Slider hatchlings have spread salmonella when introduced through the pet trade. It is illegal in the US to sell a Red-Eared Slider that is smaller than 4 inches long. New turtle keepers should also know that a young, 4-inch Red-Eared Slider can grow to three times
that length and will need a relatively spacious enclosure as an adult.


Recommended Red-Eared Slider Supplies:

  • A large watertight enclosure capable of containing a swim area

  • Smooth rocks, cork, and other material to create a ram out of the water area to the dry section of the enclosure

  • Rocks and logs for basking

  • Slate, rock or large gravel substrate

  • Foliage in the form of live plants or artificial plants

  • A UVB fluorescent light source

  • Under tank heat pad

  • Basking light

  • Under water heater

  • Three thermometers

  • A thermostat or rheostat

  • A hygrometer

Legal Terms    ©2009 Pet Supplies "Plus"/U.S.A., Inc. All Rights Reserved