Pet Supplies Plus

Milk Snake
(Lampropeltis triangulum)
Adult Size: 1.5-6 feet Lifespan: 15 years

Did You Know:

The milk snake is very closely related to the kingsnake, with many of the same care requirements. Like the kingsnake it will prey on other snakes, including rattlesnakes.
There are many subspecies of milk snake found in North and South America, ranging in size from 18 inches to 6-feet. The tropical subspecies tend to be larger than their northern counterparts.
The milk snake has been valued by farmers for controlling rodents in barns. It gets its name from the mistaken belief that it can get milk from a cow.

What You Should Know About Milk Snakes

They Are Relatively Long-Lived:	Some species will live into their 20s, but 15 years or so is more common.
Enclosure: Their Enclosure Must Be Escape Proof:	Most milk snake subspecies need a 30 gallon tank, but larger ones will require more room. The popular Honduran milk snake, for example, will need an enclosure 30-inches in length or more. An enclosure should be wide enough to equal one-third the length of snake, and long enough to equal at least two-thirds of its body length. Milk snakes are not particularly active in their enclosures, but they like to squeeze into small crevices, a trait that makes them accomplished escape artists. Every milk snake enclosure should have a very secure tight-fitting cover that provides adequate ventilation.
Hiding Areas Must Be Included In Their Enclosures:	Milk snakes need a quiet retreat that they can withdraw to. Their enclosures must include safe and secure hiding places. It is recommended that two hide boxes or logs be place in their housing, one in a warm spot, and the other in a cool down area.
Substrate: They Enjoy Burrowing Into Substrate:	Chips, cypress mulch and other substrates that allow burrowing are appreciated by milk snakes. Cedar should never be used as a substrate. Paper and indoor/outdoor carpeting are also acceptable substrates. All substrates should be checked and cleaned at least once a day.
Lighting: They Should Have Full Spectrum Lighting:	Milk Snakes should be exposed to supplemental UVB light 10-12 hours a day, using a fluorescent bulb designed for snake enclosures. Constant overhead light will induce stress in a milk snake.
Temperature: Temperature Should Be Moderate In Their Enclosures:	The temperature in a milk snake's enclosure should range from the mid 70s at one end to 85-87 degrees at the other end. At night, temperatures can be lowered by about 5 degrees. Temperatures can be maintained by putting a heat pad under one-third of the tank. Heat rocks should not be used, since they can burn the snake's skin. A rheostat or thermostat can be used to control heat mats. The temperature in a snake's enclosure should never be "estimated," it should be read by a thermometer placed one inch over the substrate. A milk snake's enclosure should have two thermometers, one in the warmer area and one in the cooler area.
A NOTE ABOUT WATER:	All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be free of chlorine and heavy metals. We recommend that you use bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment or allow it to stand for at least 24 hours before being introduced to the pet's enclosure to allow the chlorine to escape. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
Water Supply Should Be Steady, But Humidity Low:	The milk snake's enclosure should be kept relatively dry, but the snake must always have access to a large, deep bowl of clean fresh water. Milk snakes like to submerge themselves in water. They often defecate in water, so their bowls should be checked and cleaned often.
Diet: They Do Well Eating Pre-Killed Feeder Rodents:	A milk snake's diet may vary slightly depending on species, but as a rule hatchlings will eat 2-6 pre-killed pinkie feeder mice a week, depending on the subspecies. (Never give a live feeder animal to a hatchling.) Young snakes that have not yet reached adulthood (generally under three years) should be fed a minimum of one feeder mouse a week. Feed mature milk snakes adult mice or just weaned feeder rats. A milk snake should be fed once a week, but larger species will do best being fed twice as often. Ultimately, the snake's owner will have to determine the feeding schedule needed to maintain the optimum weight. A milk snake at this weight level will be well rounded with no backbone or ribs showing.

How to Handle A Milk Snake:
Milk snakes can become agitated when picked up, especially when they are young. As the snake matures, it will likely calm down, but some remain jumpy their entire lives. Never hold a milk snake close to your face or have the animals mouth pointed in the direction of your face. No snake should be allowed to wrap itself around your neck. Milk snakes should be held with two hands their bodies given firm, yet gentle, support and their heads allowed as much freedom of movement as possible. Sudden movements on the part of the handler should be avoided. Avoid handling a milk snake at the onset of
the shedding period or with two days after it has eaten. Hands should always be washed before picking up a milk snake, so it doesn't mistake its keeper for a prey animal.

Bright Idea:
Position thermometers about one inch over the tank's substrate to get a more accurate reading of tank temperature at "ground level" as it's experienced by the snake.

Look Out For This:
Milk snakes will eat other snakes, so they should be housed by themselves.

Recommended Milk Snake Supplies:

Glass or plastic enclosure with a secure lid

Heat Mat

A rheostat or thermostat to control heat mats

Thermometers

Substrate

Logs or other items for hiding areas

Spill-resistant water bowl

Hygrometer to measure humidity levels

Feeder rodents (frozen)

UVB light source