Mali Uromastyx
(Uromastyx maliensis)

Habitat
: Desert    Diet: Herbivorous    Adult Size: 10-16 inches   
Lifespan
: 20-30 years or more    Native To: African Desert Regions 

Did You Know:

  • The Mali Uromastyx, along with other uromastyx lizards, are often called "spiny tail lizards" because of their thick armored tails. When threatened, the Mali Uromastyx will move head first into a hole or crevice and block the entrance with its spiny tail. It will swing its tail as a defensive weapon to hold off aggressors.

  • Desert dwelling uromastyx lizards have salt glands around their nostrils. It's not uncommon to see salt built up at their noses.

  • Unlike many desert animals, which withdraw in the face of the scorching midday sun, the Mali Uromastyx is active at this time.

Things You Should Know About The Mali Uromastyx

The Basics:

This is a very active, long-lived and even tempered lizard that has won a large following among reptile keepers in recent years. The Mali Uromastyx has a sweet, rather comical appearance with a face that resembles a turtle's more than a lizard's, and a distinct potbelly. Its most distinctive feature is its short, thick, spiked tail. Unlike many lizards, it is not arboreal so it spends most of its time on the ground, where it will often dig enthusiastically. However, it will climb on a rock to bask. It also appreciates hiding places. Males are larger and more colorful than females. Other species of uromastyx,
including the Ornate Uromastyx (Uromastyx ornata), share much in common with the Mali Uromastyx and have similar care requirements.

Enclosure:
The More Space The Better
:

The Mali Uromastyx is a very active lizard and is an aggressive digger. Its enclosure should be wider than it is tall, and should offer the lizard ample room to move around. Avoid decorations that are too elaborate or fragile, since the Mali Uromastyx is liable to destroy them. Plants, both live and artificial, should also be avoided, since they are likely to be eaten. A Mali Uromastyx's enclosure should include flat, thin rocks for hiding and basking. Rocks should always be secured in place, since this active lizard can dislodge them, causing injury to itself. A screened top is advisable for this enclosure, since it can aid in keeping humidity levels low. The enclosure should be at least 4' x 2' x 2' or a 60-gallon aquarium for a single specimen. If a male and multiple females are housed in the same enclosure, more space will be required. In general terms, this lizard needs as much space as can practically be provided.

Substrate:
Digging Material:

The Mali Uromastyx is an avid burrower, so the substrate in
its enclosure should provide opportunities for safe digging. Commercially available sanitized play sand, river sand and calci sand are all good substrates for an adult member
of this species. However, swallowed sand can become impacted in a young Mali Uromastyx, so a paper substrate should be used for the enclosures of babies and
juveniles. Rocks or other large furnishings should be placed directly on and affixed to the surface of the enclosure rather than on the substrate. This will protect against the Mali
Uromastyx tipping over the rock or object and hurting itself when digging.

Lighting:
Full Spectrum:
Exposure to UVB rays is critical in allowing the Mali
Uromastyx to synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. If the lizard isn't exposed to an adequate level of UVB lighting, it will develop a metabolic bone disorder. There are a
variety of fluorescent tubes available at PSP that emit UVB light. Fluorescent tubes that produce UVB rays should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so
overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. This light source should be within 12-20 inches of the animal. The Mali Uromastyx should be exposed to 12 hours of light each day. Leaving lights on longer will disorient and stress this lizard.

Temperature:
Keep It Hot:

A desert animal, the Mali Uromastyx needs a very hot basking spot in its enclosure. The temperature in the basking area should be around 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Daytime ambient temperature throughout the enclosure should range from the mid 80s to low 90s. Heat can be maintained through a combination of lamps. Nighttime temperatures, which should be low 70's, can be maintained by under-tank heaters or ceramic heat emitters, which do not produce light. Follow directions carefully with ceramic heat emitters, use fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires, do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Thermometers should be positioned in the warmer and cooler areas of the enclosure as well as in the basking spot. A hiding place should be kept in both the warm and cool areas of the enclosure

Humidity:
Keep It Low
:

The Mali Uromastyx requires very low humidity levels in its
enclosure, which is not surprising given that this is a desert lizard. The reptile keeper should never spray a Mali Uromastyx or its enclosure. A shallow bowl of water can be
placed in an enclosure for brief periods but if it left in too long, it can raise humidity levels. Young lizards, breeding females and sick or injured animals may benefit from having a shallow bowl, but a healthy specimen will get all the water it needs from its food. An overly humid enclosure can cause respiratory problems.

A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be free of chlorine and heavy metals. We recommend that you use bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should  treat it with a dechlorinating treatment or allow it to stand for  at least 24 hours before being introduced to the pet's enclosure to allow the chlorine to escape. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
Diet:
Pass The Vegetables, Please:
Primarily a herbivore, the Mali Uromastyx will eat
crickets on occasion, but these should be fed very sparingly (less than once every two weeks for adults, once a week for young lizards.) Too much protein in the diet can lead to
medical problems for the Mali Uromastyx, including gout and kidney failure. The bulk of the diet should consist of greens like turnip greens, dandelion greens, endive, and
romaine lettuce, as well as vegetables like carrots and alfalfa. A dish of beans and legumes, such as lentils, peas, sesame seeds and millet, should also be offered.  Feed the Mali Uromastyx daily, allowing it to eat until full (it should have a rounded appearance.) Remove uneaten food within four hours to prevent spoilage. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:
Supplements: A vitamin supplement can be added to the food twice a month. Growing babies and juveniles should be given a calcium supplement twice a week.

The best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.


How to Handle A Mali Uromastyx
Although even tempered, some Mali Uromastyx lizards are shy, and should be approached gently allowing them to become comfortable with their human keeper. After time, many will become comfortable with being held. Care should be taken to watch for the spiny tail, which the lizard uses as a defensive weapon. This lizard, like all others, should be held away from your face. Always wash your hands before and after handling a reptile.


Look Out For This:
The Mali Uromastyx comes from one of the hottest, driest and most barren regions in the world. Great care must be taken to ensure that the temperature in this lizard's enclosure always remains high, and that humidity levels are always low. They are also very active lizards.


Recommended Mali Uromastyx Supplies:

  • A top-loading, screened enclosure that is wider than it is high

  • UVB and UVA emitting light

  • Flat rocks with broad surface area that aren't too bulky

  • Heating element to maintain enclosure temperatures

  • Three thermometers, so temperature can be monitored at both ends of the enclosure, and in basking area

  • Appropriate substrate

  • Multiple hiding areas

  • Hygrometer to measure humidity levels

  • Thermostat and rheostat to regulate heat

 

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