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Mali
Uromastyx
(Uromastyx maliensis)
Habitat:
Desert Diet: Herbivorous
Adult Size: 10-16 inches
Lifespan: 20-30 years or
more Native To:
African Desert Regions |
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Did
You Know:
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The Mali Uromastyx, along
with other uromastyx
lizards, are often called
"spiny
tail lizards" because of
their thick armored tails.
When threatened, the Mali
Uromastyx will move head
first into a hole or crevice
and block the entrance with
its spiny tail. It will
swing its tail as a
defensive weapon to hold off
aggressors.
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Desert dwelling uromastyx
lizards have salt glands
around their nostrils. It's
not
uncommon to see salt built
up at their noses.
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Unlike many desert animals,
which withdraw in the face
of the scorching midday
sun, the Mali Uromastyx is
active at this time.
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Things You Should Know About The
Mali Uromastyx |
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The Basics: |
This is a very active,
long-lived and even
tempered lizard that has
won a large following
among reptile keepers in
recent years. The Mali
Uromastyx has a sweet,
rather comical
appearance with a face
that resembles a
turtle's more than a
lizard's, and a distinct
potbelly. Its most
distinctive feature is
its short, thick, spiked
tail. Unlike many
lizards, it is not
arboreal so it spends
most of its time on the
ground, where it will
often dig
enthusiastically.
However, it will climb
on a rock to bask. It
also appreciates hiding
places. Males are larger
and more colorful than
females. Other species
of uromastyx,
including the Ornate
Uromastyx (Uromastyx
ornata), share much in
common with the Mali
Uromastyx and have
similar care
requirements. |
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Enclosure:
The More
Space The Better: |
The Mali Uromastyx is a
very active lizard and
is
an aggressive digger.
Its enclosure should be
wider than it is tall,
and should offer the
lizard ample room to
move around. Avoid
decorations that are too
elaborate or fragile,
since the Mali Uromastyx
is liable to destroy
them. Plants, both live
and artificial, should
also be avoided, since
they are likely to be
eaten. A Mali
Uromastyx's enclosure
should
include flat, thin rocks
for hiding and basking.
Rocks should always be
secured in place, since
this active lizard can
dislodge them, causing
injury to itself. A
screened top is
advisable for this
enclosure, since it can
aid in keeping humidity
levels low. The
enclosure should be at
least 4' x 2' x 2' or a
60-gallon aquarium for a
single specimen. If a
male and multiple
females are housed in
the same enclosure, more
space will be required.
In general terms, this
lizard needs as much
space as can practically
be provided. |
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Substrate:
Digging
Material: |
The Mali Uromastyx is an
avid burrower, so the
substrate in
its enclosure should
provide opportunities
for safe digging.
Commercially available
sanitized play sand,
river sand and calci
sand are all good
substrates for an adult
member
of this species.
However, swallowed sand
can become impacted in a
young Mali Uromastyx, so
a paper substrate should
be used for the
enclosures of babies and
juveniles. Rocks or
other large furnishings
should be placed
directly on and affixed
to the surface of the
enclosure rather than on
the substrate. This will
protect against the Mali
Uromastyx tipping over
the rock or object and
hurting itself when
digging. |
Lighting:
Full Spectrum:
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Exposure to UVB rays is
critical in allowing the
Mali
Uromastyx to synthesize
vitamin D3 and absorb
calcium. If the lizard
isn't exposed to an
adequate level of UVB
lighting, it will
develop a metabolic bone
disorder. There are a
variety of fluorescent
tubes available at PSP
that emit UVB light.
Fluorescent tubes that
produce UVB rays should
be replaced every six
months. Glass blocks out
UVB light, so
overhead light sources
should be kept behind a
wire mesh cover, not a
glass or acrylic tank
top. This light source
should be within 12-20
inches of the animal.
The Mali Uromastyx
should be exposed to 12
hours of light each day.
Leaving lights on longer
will disorient and
stress this lizard. |
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Temperature:
Keep It
Hot: |
A desert animal, the
Mali Uromastyx needs a
very hot basking spot in
its enclosure. The
temperature in the
basking area should be
around 120 degrees
Fahrenheit. Daytime
ambient temperature
throughout the enclosure
should range from the
mid 80s to low 90s. Heat
can be maintained
through a combination of
lamps. Nighttime
temperatures, which
should be low 70's, can be
maintained by under-tank
heaters or ceramic heat
emitters, which do not
produce light. Follow
directions carefully
with ceramic heat
emitters, use fixtures
with porcelain or
ceramic sockets and to
protect against fires,
do not place them by dry
wood or flammable
fabrics. Thermometers
should be positioned in
the warmer and cooler
areas of the enclosure
as well as in the
basking spot. A hiding
place should be kept in
both the warm and cool
areas of the enclosure |
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Humidity:
Keep It Low: |
The Mali Uromastyx
requires very low
humidity levels in its
enclosure, which is not
surprising given that
this is a desert lizard.
The reptile keeper
should never spray a
Mali Uromastyx or its
enclosure. A shallow
bowl of water can be
placed in an enclosure
for brief periods but if
it left in too long, it
can raise humidity
levels. Young lizards,
breeding females and
sick or injured animals
may benefit from
having a shallow bowl,
but a healthy specimen
will get all the water
it needs from its food.
An overly humid
enclosure can cause
respiratory problems. |
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A
NOTE ABOUT WATER: |
All water given to this
pet for drinking, as
well as water used for
misting,
soaking or
bathing must be free of
chlorine and heavy
metals. We
recommend that you
use bottled drinking
water or bottled natural
spring water and never
untreated tap water.
If tap water
is used, you should treat
it with a dechlorinating
treatment or allow
it to stand for at
least 24 hours
before being introduced
to the pet's
enclosure to allow the
chlorine to escape. Do
not use distilled water,
which can cause severe
medical problems, since
it lacks minerals that
are essential to
important body
functions. |
Diet:
Pass The
Vegetables, Please:
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Primarily a herbivore,
the Mali Uromastyx will
eat
crickets on occasion,
but these should be fed
very sparingly (less
than once every two
weeks for adults, once a
week for young lizards.)
Too much protein in the
diet can lead to
medical problems for the
Mali Uromastyx,
including gout and
kidney failure. The bulk
of the diet should
consist of greens like
turnip greens, dandelion
greens, endive, and
romaine lettuce, as well
as vegetables like
carrots and alfalfa. A
dish of beans and
legumes, such as
lentils, peas, sesame
seeds and millet, should
also be offered. Feed the Mali
Uromastyx daily,
allowing it
to eat until full (it
should have a rounded
appearance.) Remove
uneaten food within four
hours to prevent
spoilage.
Important -- It is
necessary to provide
calcium and vitamin
supplements as part of
the diet. Please read
the supplement section
below: |
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Supplements: |
A vitamin supplement can
be added to the food
twice a month. Growing
babies and juveniles
should be given a
calcium supplement twice
a week.
The best specific
schedule may vary
depending on the
supplement products used
and other factors.
Please consult product
package directions,
outside literature and a
veterinarian to
determine the optimal
supplementing program. |
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How to Handle A Mali
Uromastyx
Although even tempered, some
Mali Uromastyx lizards are shy,
and should be
approached gently allowing them
to become comfortable with their
human keeper. After
time, many will become
comfortable with being held.
Care should be taken to watch
for
the spiny tail, which the lizard
uses as a defensive weapon. This
lizard, like all others,
should be held away from your
face. Always wash your hands
before and after handling a
reptile.
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Look Out For This:
The Mali Uromastyx comes from
one of the hottest, driest and
most
barren regions in the world.
Great care must be taken to
ensure that the
temperature in this lizard's
enclosure always remains high,
and that
humidity levels are always low.
They are also very active
lizards.
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Recommended
Mali Uromastyx Supplies:
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A top-loading, screened
enclosure that is wider
than it is high
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UVB and UVA emitting light
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Flat rocks with broad
surface area that aren't
too bulky
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Heating element to
maintain enclosure
temperatures
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Three thermometers, so
temperature can be
monitored at both ends
of the enclosure, and in
basking area
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Appropriate substrate
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Multiple hiding areas
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Hygrometer to measure
humidity levels
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Thermostat and rheostat
to regulate heat

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