|
They're Moderately Sized: |
Hatchlings range from 8
to 13 inches long, and
grow to 3-7
feet as adults depending
on the individual
species. |
|
They
Can Live Up To 20 Years
Or More: |
However a lifespan of
15-18 years is more
common.
In either case, this is
a hardy species, and
anyone who purchases one
should be prepared to
make a long term
commitment. |
|
Enclosure:
Their
enclosure should be
secure: |
Depending on the species
of kingsnake, most
adults can be housed in
a 40-gallon aquarium or
similar enclosure with a
screen lid or other
cover that allows
adequate ventilation.
It's important that any
enclosure have a tight
fitting cover, since
kingsnakes are the Harry
Houdini of the snake
world. Larger kingsnake
species will need a
bigger enclosure. An
enclosure should provide
the kingsnake with room
to stretch. |
|
Hide Boxes Should Be
Included In Their
Enclosure: |
Despite the fact that
they will quickly make a
meal out of a fellow
snake; kingsnakes are
mild mannered animals
that typically would
rather flee than fight.
As such, they appreciate
having a sanctuary where
they can get away from
it all. Their enclosures
should have two hide
boxes to meet this need
for
privacy. One hide box
should be placed in the
warmer area of the
enclosure and the other
in the cooler area. Hide
boxes should not be too
large, since kingsnakes
tend to feel more
secure in a tighter
space. |
|
Substrate:
Cedar And
Pine Shavings Should Not
Be Used With Them:
|
The aromatic oils in
cedar and pine can cause
severe, even life
threatening respiratory
problems. Reptile bark
and Astroturf™ are often
used as substrates.
Kingsnakes also seem to
enjoy burrowing in
cypress mulch bedding.
Paper towels and butcher
paper make good
substrate material for
new snakes, since they
can be replaced when
soiled, and they make it
easy to see parasites
and mites. |
|
Temperature:
They Are
Sensitive To
Temperatures That Are
Too High: |
Most kingsnake species
do not do well when
exposed to temperatures
over 90 degrees for
prolonged periods.
Kingsnakes should be
provided with a thermal
gradient ranged from the
mid 70s at one end of
the enclosure to 85-87
degrees at the other
end. At night,
temperatures can be
lowered by about 5
degrees. Temperatures
can be maintained by
putting a heat pad under
one-third of the tank.
Heat rocks should not be
used, since they can
burn the snake's skin.
A rheostat or thermostat
can be used to control
heat mats. The
temperature in a snake's
enclosure should never
be "estimated," it
should be read by a
thermometer placed one
inch over the substrate.
A kingsnake's enclosure
should have two
thermometers, one in the
warmer area and one in
the cooler area. |
|
They Don't Require A
High Level Of Humidity: |
Most kingsnakes require
a relatively low
humidity level of
between 40% and 60%.
This can generally be
achieved by placing a
water bowl in the
snake’s enclosure.
During shedding periods,
when more humidity is
required, it can be
increased by misting the
enclosure or using a
humidity box. Use a
hygrometer to measure
humidity levels. |
|
Lighting:
They Should
Have A Full Spectrum Of
Light: |
Kingsnakes should be
exposed to supplemental
UVB light 10-12 hours a
day. However, constant
light will cause stress.
Use fluorescent bulb
designed for snakes.
Constant
overhead
light will induce stress
in a kingsnake. |
Diet:
The Amount Of Food
They Need Varies By
Species: |
Kingsnake hatchlings
should be fed pre-killed
pinkie feeder mice,
never live feeder
animals. Feed hatchlings
2-6 pinkie mice a week
depending on the species
and the growth rate
desired. Young snakes
that have not yet
reached adulthood
(generally under three
years) should be fed a
minimum of one
feeder mouse a week.
Adult kingsnakes should
be fed adult mice or
just weaned feeder rats.
As a rule of thumb, a
kingsnake should be fed
once a week, but larger
species (those over 4')
will do best being fed
twice as often.
Ultimately, the snake's
owner will have to
determine the feeding
schedule needed to
maintain the optimum
weight. A kingsnake at
this weight level will
be well rounded with no
backbone or ribs
showing. Kingsnakes
should not be handled
for at least 1-2 days
after feeding. Always
use a tongs or
longhandled forceps to
place a feeder animal in
a king snake's
enclosure. Never offer
feeder animals with your
bare hand. Snakes
identify prey by scent,
and they are liable to
attack
your hand, if it has the
smell of a feeder animal
on it. |
|
A
NOTE ABOUT WATER: |
All water given to this
pet for drinking, as
well as water used for
misting,
soaking or
bathing must be free of
chlorine and heavy
metals. We
recommend that you
use bottled drinking
water or bottled natural
spring water and never
untreated tap water.
If tap water
is used, you should treat
it with a dechlorinating
treatment or allow
it to stand for at
least 24 hours
before being introduced
to the pet's
enclosure to allow the
chlorine to escape. Do
not use distilled water,
which can cause severe
medical problems, since
it lacks minerals that
are essential to
important body
functions. |
|
They Need A Steady
Supply Of Water: |
Kingsnakes must always
have access to clean,
fresh
water. Their enclosures
should have a water bowl
that is deep enough for
the snake to submerge
its body and wide enough
not to be overturned
easily. Kingsnakes often
defecate in their water,
so their bowls should be
checked and cleaned
often. |
