The Basics:

The Emerald Swift is a beautiful, but delicate lizard that is very difficult to keep. It has an extremely high mortality rate in captivity, often dying within one year. This lizard should never be purchased by anyone but the most experienced reptile keeper. Even then, the decision to own an Emerald Swift should be given careful consideration because of its special needs. A small stocky lizard, the Emerald Swift rarely grows much beyond seven inches. Females are smaller and much less colorful than males. All specimens in the pet trade are wild caught animals from the cloud forests of southern
Mexico and Central America. Diurnal lizards, Emerald Swifts are most active during the day. They are territorial, so males must not be housed together.

Enclosure:
The More Space The Better :

Emerald swifts are active lizards that require a large enclosure relative to their small body size. A 30-gallon glass tank, or preferably larger, should be used for a single male and one or two females. The tank should have a secure screen lid for proper air exchange. Climbing and basking branches and perches that are at least twice the diameter of the lizard's body should be provided. The enclosure should also include secure hiding places. Emerald swifts seem to do best when they have a variety of climbing, basking and hiding spots. It's a good idea to arrange climbing and basking branches vertically and horizontally. Pothos or a similar live plant makes a welcome addition to the enclosure, because it provides security and helps maintain humidity.

Substrate:
Select A Humidity Retainer:

The enclosure used in an Emerald Swift's enclosure should play an important role in maintaining the high humidity levels required by this lizard. Humidity retaining substrates like safe potting soil, mulch made from nonaromatic wood (no pine or cedar), and leaf litter work well. Since Emerald Swifts like to
burrow, a substrate that they can dig into may make them feel more secure. Any substrate in an Emerald Swift's enclosure must be cleaned daily.

Temperature:
Not Too Hot:

By lizard standards, Emerald Swifts seem to do best in relatively cool enclosures. The ambient temperatures should be in the mid-to-upper 70s to low 80s during the day, and drop to the upper 60s at night. A relatively warm basking area (in the mid-90s) should also be provided. This will allow the Emerald Swift to regulate body temperature by moving around the enclosure. A combination of lamps and heat emitters
can be used to maintain the desired thermal gradient, while a lamp can heat the basking spot. Ceramic heat emitters can be used to achieve nighttime temperatures without
disturbing the on/off light cycle. Thermometers should be positioned in the warmer and cooler areas of the enclosure as well as in the basking spot.

Humidity:
Relatively High Levels Required:

An Emerald Swift requires relatively high humidity levels in its enclosure to simulate its natural cloud forest environment. Between 50-70% humidity should be maintained. This can be accomplished by misting the enclosure once a day, and using live plants. It is important to keep nighttime humidity levels high. A hygrometer should be used to measure humidity levels. Care should be taken not to create an enclosure environment that is too humid, since this will promote fungal infections and jeopardize the health of the lizard.

Diet:
Insects Are The Main Course:

Insects should make up the bulk of an Emerald Swift's
diet. However, some will also accept and appreciate an occasional sweet fruit. Commercially available crickets, mealworms, butter worms, as well as the occasional waxworm, are all appropriate fare for this lizard. Insects should be gut loaded and dusted with a supplement before being offered to the Emerald Swift. Adults should be fed every other day and juveniles should be fed daily. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. A calcium, vitamin D3 powder should be used to dust
insects once or twice a week, or more often for juveniles and ovulating females. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.