Collared Lizard
(Crotaphytus collaris)

Habitat
: Desert, Grassland or Prairie     Diet: Largely Carnivorous     Adult Size: 8-14 inches     Lifespan: 5-10 years     Native To: North America                       
 

Did You Know:

  • Unlike many lizards, the Collared Lizard cannot grow a new tail if its old one is broken off.

  • Collared Lizards are one of the fastest lizards, able to reach speeds of up to 16 miles per hour. They run on their hind legs, holding their bodies off the ground at a 45-degree angle with tail and forelimbs raised, giving them the appearance of miniature T-Rexes.

  • The Collared Lizard gets its name because the two black bands on its neck resemble a collar.

 

Things You Should Know About The Collared Lizard

The Basics:

Lively, alert and wary, the Collared Lizard will often take a while to warm up to its human keeper. Although only medium in size, Collared Lizards have powerful jaws, and their bite is capable of breaking human skin. So care should be taken when handling them. However, they will grow to accept human handling over time, after gentle, measured and persistent overtures. In nature, Collared Lizards can be found in arid and semi-arid environments stretching from Missouri to California and down into Mexico. Most often they live in rocky areas. They typically grow to around a foot in length, with males being larger than females. Males are also more vividly colored than females, having a green or blue coloration with bands and small white spots, while the females are paler and grayer. A male's throat will also be brightly colored, often blue or
green and sometimes even orange. The belly of a Collared Lizard is much lighter than the back.

Enclosure:
They Need Space
:

Collareds are very active lizards, so they must be housed in
enclosures that offer ample room. A single Collared Lizard should have an enclosure that's at least the size of a 40-gallon aquarium, with adequate ventilation. However, a
larger enclosure is more desirable. Male Collared Lizards are very territorial, and should never be housed together. In nature, Collareds are very active predators that will readily
eat other lizards, so smaller animals must not be housed with them. This includes members of their own species, since Collareds are cannibalistic.

Climbing And Hiding Places Required:

Wild Collared Lizards enjoy climbing and basking on rocks. This natural environment must be replicated in their enclosure, with a larger rock or rock pile in the basking area of the tank. If a pile is used, care must be taken to ensure that the rocks are stable, so they will not topple on to the lizard. The top of the rock pile should provide a surface that's large enough to allow the lizard to bask comfortably. Since Collareds are often wary animals, their enclosures must include hide boxes or other places that provide them with a secure retreat. This area can be located in the cooler section of the enclosure.

Substrate:
Sand Works Best:
A Sanitized commercially available desert sand is the
preferred substrate, but Collared Lizards will also do well with alfalfa pellets, mulch, and paper as well as indoor/outdoor carpeting. Care should be taken to ensure that the lizard
does not eat the substrate in its enclosure. If this does happen, indoor/outdoor carpeting, paper or an edible substrate should be used.

Lighting:
UVB Lighting Is Absolutely Essential:

Collared lizards need exposure to UVB rays to produce vitamin D3, which is essential to the animal's ability to absorb calcium. Unlike people, lizards like the Collared cannot produce their own Vitamin D3, so they must depend on UVB rays. Without Vitamin D3, a Collared Lizard will not have a sufficient supply of calcium even if it is given a supplement, a condition that will lead to the development of a metabolic bone disease. UVB rays should be provided to the Collared Lizard by a fluorescent bulb that also provides UVA rays and operates on a 10-12 hour on/off cycle. There are a variety of full spectrum lights available at PSP that emit UVB light in combination with UVA light. Fluorescent lamps producing UVB rays should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. This light source should be within 12 inches of the animal.

Temperature:
They Like It Hot And Dry
:

Collared lizards do best in an enclosure that is hot and
relatively dry. A heat lamp should be used to create a basking area with temperatures of 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit. This area should include a basking rock or rock pile, with
the heat lamp aimed at its highest point. A thermal gradient must be provided in the rest of the tank with temperatures ranging from the upper 70s to upper 80s during the day,
and about 5-10 degrees cooler at night. This will allow the animal to move around its enclosure to regulate body temperature. Heat can be provided by a combination of lamps.
Ceramic heat emitters that give off heat, but no light, can be used to maintain nighttime temperatures, if necessary. Three thermometers should monitor temperature, one in the
warmer zone, one in the cooler zone and one in the basking area.

Diet: Mostly Meat:

Collared lizards are primarily carnivores, but many will also eat plant matter, including collard greens, mustard greens, kale and zucchini. Meat should constitute the majority of the Collared Lizard's diet. Collared lizards will eat commercially raised crickets, mealworms, earthworms, kingworms and roaches. (Wild caught insects should never be fed, since they can carry disease.) All insects should be gut loaded (fed 48-hours before being offered) and dusted with a supplement.  Collared lizards will also take pinkie feeder mice, but these should be fed sparingly because of their high fat content. Plant matter fed to the lizard must be washed, then cut or shred to make it easier to ingest. Uneaten food should be removed within three hours. Adults should be fed 3-4 times a week and juveniles daily. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

Supplements: Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplement. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Consult product labels and outside literature for specific instructions on supplementing. Avoid over-supplementing.

The best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.

A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be free of chlorine and heavy metals. We recommend that you use bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should  treat it with a dechlorinating treatment or allow it to stand for  at least 24 hours before being introduced to the pet's enclosure to allow the chlorine to escape. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
Water Clean fresh water must always be available to a Collared. This lizard does best with a shallow water bowl that includes small stones. If a Collared Lizard refuses to accept water from a bowl, droplets should be sprinkled on rocks. Collared lizards do best in enclosures that have 20-30 percent humidity levels.

How to Handle A Collared Lizard:
Naturally wary, Collared Lizards will often resist being handled initially. However, they can be won over eventually with patience and gentle persistence. Offering a Collared Lizard a mealworm or other treat, first with forceps then with the tips of your fingers will help them become acclimated to you. However, handling should not be forced on a Collared that remains reluctant to accept it.
When picking up a Collared Lizard, approach it low and from the side rather than from overhead. In nature, predatory birds approach lizards from above, so a lizard will understandably become defensive if you stand over it and reach down. Pick up the Collared Lizard by sliding one hand under it so you can straddle across its back and forelegs, while using the other hand to hold its hips and tail.
Don't grasp the Collared Lizard too hard, or make it feel restrained. At the same time, be alert to the fact that even a seemingly calm Collared Lizard can jump up and run away. Never pick up a Collared, or any other lizard, by its head or tail. Collared Lizards can inflict painful, skin-breaking bites, so you may want to wear protective gloves when handling very nervous or aggressive animals. Always wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling a lizard.
 
Bright Idea:
Under-tank pads should not be used to heat the enclosure of an arboreal lizard, since this animal spends much of its time off the ground.


Look Out For This:
Some Collared Lizards will not take water from a bowl until they become acclimated to captivity. However, these lizards will readily accept water droplets placed on rocks, or water from an eyedropper or syringe. Collareds will more likely recognize and take water if it is offered in a shallow bowl with small rocks in it.


Recommended Collared Lizard Supplies:

  • A top-opening glass or custom enclosure with a secure lid

  • UVB emitting light

  • Heat lamp for basking area

  • Three thermometers, temperature can monitored at both ends of the enclosure and in the basking area

  • Substrate

  • Shallow water dish

  • Cork, bark or rocks for climbing and hiding

  • Silk plants and branches

  • A moist hiding area

 

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