|
|

|
Collared
Lizard
(Crotaphytus collaris)
Habitat:
Desert, Grassland or Prairie
Diet: Largely Carnivorous
Adult Size: 8-14 inches
Lifespan: 5-10 years
Native To: North America
|
|
Did
You Know:
-
Unlike many lizards, the
Collared Lizard cannot grow
a new tail if its old one is
broken off.
-
Collared Lizards are one of
the fastest lizards, able to
reach speeds of up to 16
miles per hour. They run on
their hind legs, holding
their bodies off the ground
at
a 45-degree angle with tail
and forelimbs raised, giving
them the appearance of
miniature T-Rexes.
-
The Collared Lizard gets its
name because the two black
bands on its neck
resemble a collar.
|
|
Things You Should Know About The
Collared Lizard |
|
The Basics: |
Lively, alert and wary,
the Collared Lizard will
often take a while to
warm up to its human
keeper. Although only
medium in size, Collared
Lizards have powerful
jaws, and their bite is
capable of breaking
human skin. So care
should be taken when
handling them. However,
they will grow to accept
human handling over
time, after
gentle, measured and
persistent overtures. In
nature, Collared Lizards
can be found in arid and
semi-arid environments
stretching from Missouri
to California and down
into
Mexico. Most often they
live in rocky areas.
They typically grow to
around a foot in length,
with males being larger
than females. Males are
also more vividly
colored than
females, having a green
or blue coloration with
bands and small white
spots, while the females
are paler and grayer. A
male's throat will also
be brightly colored,
often blue or
green and sometimes even
orange. The belly of a
Collared Lizard is much
lighter than the back. |
|
Enclosure:
They Need
Space: |
Collareds are very
active lizards, so they
must be housed in
enclosures that offer
ample room. A single
Collared Lizard should
have an enclosure that's
at least the size of a
40-gallon aquarium, with
adequate ventilation.
However, a
larger enclosure is more
desirable. Male Collared
Lizards are very
territorial, and should
never be housed
together. In nature,
Collareds are very
active predators that
will readily
eat other lizards, so
smaller animals must not
be housed with them.
This includes members of
their own species, since
Collareds are
cannibalistic. |
|
Climbing And Hiding
Places Required: |
Wild Collared Lizards
enjoy climbing and
basking
on rocks. This natural
environment must be
replicated in their
enclosure, with a larger
rock or rock pile in the
basking area of the
tank. If a pile is used,
care must be taken to
ensure that the rocks
are stable, so they will
not topple on to the
lizard. The top of the
rock pile should provide
a surface that's large
enough to allow the
lizard to bask
comfortably. Since
Collareds are often wary
animals, their
enclosures must include
hide boxes or other
places that provide them
with a secure retreat.
This area can be located
in the cooler section of
the enclosure. |
Substrate:
Sand Works
Best: |
A Sanitized commercially
available desert sand is
the
preferred substrate, but
Collared Lizards will
also do well with
alfalfa pellets, mulch,
and paper as well as
indoor/outdoor
carpeting. Care should
be taken to ensure that
the lizard
does not eat the
substrate in its
enclosure. If this does
happen, indoor/outdoor
carpeting, paper or an
edible substrate should
be used. |
|
Lighting:
UVB Lighting
Is Absolutely Essential: |
Collared lizards need
exposure to UVB rays
to produce vitamin D3,
which is essential to
the animal's ability to
absorb calcium. Unlike
people, lizards like the
Collared cannot produce
their own Vitamin D3, so
they
must depend on UVB rays.
Without Vitamin D3, a
Collared Lizard will not
have a sufficient supply
of calcium even if it is
given a supplement, a
condition that will lead
to
the development of a
metabolic bone disease.
UVB rays should be
provided to the Collared
Lizard by a fluorescent
bulb that also provides
UVA rays and operates on
a 10-12 hour on/off cycle.
There are a variety of
full spectrum lights
available at PSP that
emit UVB light in
combination with UVA
light. Fluorescent lamps
producing UVB rays
should be replaced every
six months. Glass blocks
out UVB light, so
overhead light sources
should be kept behind a
wire mesh cover, not a
glass or acrylic tank
top. This light source
should be within 12
inches of the animal.
|
|
Temperature:
They Like
It Hot And Dry: |
Collared lizards do best
in an enclosure that is
hot and
relatively dry. A heat
lamp should be used to
create a basking area
with temperatures of
100-110 degrees
Fahrenheit. This area
should include a basking
rock or rock pile, with
the heat lamp aimed at
its highest point. A
thermal gradient must be
provided in the rest of
the tank with
temperatures ranging
from the upper 70s to
upper 80s during the
day,
and about 5-10 degrees
cooler at night. This
will allow the animal to
move around its
enclosure to regulate
body temperature. Heat
can be provided by a
combination of lamps.
Ceramic heat emitters
that give off heat, but
no light, can be used to
maintain nighttime
temperatures, if
necessary. Three
thermometers should
monitor temperature, one
in the
warmer zone, one in the
cooler zone and one in
the basking area. |
|
Diet:
Mostly Meat: |
Collared lizards are
primarily carnivores,
but many will also eat
plant matter, including
collard greens, mustard
greens, kale and
zucchini. Meat should
constitute the majority
of the Collared Lizard's
diet. Collared lizards
will eat
commercially raised
crickets, mealworms,
earthworms, kingworms
and roaches. (Wild
caught insects should
never be fed, since they
can carry disease.) All
insects should be
gut loaded (fed 48-hours
before being offered)
and dusted with a
supplement. Collared
lizards will also take
pinkie feeder
mice, but these should
be fed sparingly because
of their high fat
content. Plant matter
fed to the lizard must
be washed, then cut or
shred to make it easier
to ingest. Uneaten food
should be removed within
three hours. Adults
should be fed 3-4 times
a week and juveniles
daily.
Important -- It is
necessary to provide
calcium and vitamin
supplements as part of
the diet. Please read
the supplement section
below: |
|
Supplements: |
Dust
insects
with calcium supplement
and vitamin supplement.
As a rule, a growing
juvenile's food should
be dusted more often
than an adult's. Consult
product labels and
outside literature for
specific instructions on
supplementing.
Avoid
over-supplementing.
The
best specific schedule
may vary depending on
the supplement products
used and other factors.
Please consult product
package directions,
outside literature and a
veterinarian to
determine the optimal
supplementing program.
|
|
A
NOTE ABOUT WATER: |
All water given to this
pet for drinking, as
well as water used for
misting,
soaking or
bathing must be free of
chlorine and heavy
metals. We
recommend that you
use bottled drinking
water or bottled natural
spring water and never
untreated tap water.
If tap water
is used, you should treat
it with a dechlorinating
treatment or allow
it to stand for at
least 24 hours
before being introduced
to the pet's
enclosure to allow the
chlorine to escape. Do
not use distilled water,
which can cause severe
medical problems, since
it lacks minerals that
are essential to
important body
functions. |
|
Water |
Clean fresh water must
always be available to a
Collared. This lizard
does best with a shallow
water bowl that includes
small stones. If a
Collared Lizard refuses
to accept water from a
bowl, droplets should be
sprinkled on rocks.
Collared lizards do best
in enclosures that have
20-30 percent humidity
levels. |
|
How to Handle A Collared
Lizard:
Naturally wary, Collared
Lizards will often resist being
handled initially. However, they
can be won over eventually with
patience and gentle persistence.
Offering a Collared
Lizard a mealworm or other
treat, first with forceps then
with the tips of your fingers
will
help them become acclimated to
you. However, handling should
not be forced on a
Collared that remains reluctant
to accept it.
When picking up a Collared
Lizard, approach it low and from
the side rather than from
overhead. In nature, predatory
birds approach lizards from
above, so a lizard will
understandably become defensive
if you stand over it and reach
down. Pick up the
Collared Lizard by sliding one
hand under it so you can
straddle across its back and
forelegs, while using the other
hand to hold its hips and tail.
Don't grasp the Collared Lizard
too hard, or make it feel
restrained. At the same time, be
alert to the fact that even a
seemingly calm Collared Lizard
can jump up and run away.
Never pick up a Collared, or any
other lizard, by its head or
tail. Collared Lizards can
inflict painful, skin-breaking
bites, so you may want to wear
protective gloves when
handling very nervous or
aggressive animals.
Always wash your hands
thoroughly before and after
handling a lizard.
|
Bright Idea:
Under-tank pads should not
be used to heat the enclosure of
an
arboreal lizard, since this
animal spends much of its time
off
the ground. |
|
Look Out For This:
Some Collared Lizards will not
take water from a bowl until
they
become acclimated to captivity.
However, these lizards will
readily
accept water droplets placed on
rocks, or water from an
eyedropper or
syringe. Collareds will more
likely recognize and take water
if it is
offered in a shallow bowl with
small rocks in it.
|
|
Recommended
Collared Lizard Supplies:
-
A top-opening glass or
custom enclosure with a
secure lid
-
UVB emitting light
-
Heat lamp for basking
area
-
Three thermometers,
temperature can
monitored at both ends
of the enclosure and in
the basking area
-
Substrate
-
Shallow water dish
-
Cork, bark or rocks for
climbing and hiding
-
Silk plants and branches
-
A moist hiding area

|
|
|