The Basics:

Also called the “Malayan Box Turtle” and the “Amboina Box Turtle,” this hardy pet has a dark olive or black head with distinctive yellow facial stripes and a high domed shell. Like most turtles, it is relatively long-lived, provided it is given proper care. Although some specimens may grow to ten inches or more, most are two or three inches smaller. Compared to many other boxed turtles, the Asian Box Turtles are mellow animals that rarely snap. Some turtle keepers say that this species will follow a person around for food. In nature, Asian Box Turtles can be found in the dense vegetation at the edge of equatorial wetlands, and in the water.

Enclosure:

Asian Box Turtles need to spend a lot of time in water, so they must have a semi aquatic tank. At least half of their tank space must be covered by water. The water must be deep enough for the turtle to submerge itself, but not too deep, since Asian Box Turtles are not accomplished swimmers. A depth of 6-7 inches for adults and 2 inches for juveniles will allow the turtle to stop and stand, while putting its head above water. Rocks should be used to create “resting islands” in the aquatic area. The dry area of the tank should have a sloped surface making it easy for the turtle to exit the water. An alternative is to have rocks arranged in steps leading out of the water to the dry area. Basking rocks should be placed in the dry area of the enclosure, since these turtles love to soak up heat and light rays when out of the water. A shelter or hide box should also be provided. The enclosure must be spacious to accommodate this active turtle, a minimum 40-gallon tank is recommended for one adult and 60-gallons for two. Tanks should be horizontally oriented, longer than they are high.

Substrate:

A mixture of slightly damp sterilized sand and soil, about three inches deep serves as a good foundation for the dry
area of the enclosure. Finely shredded bark mulch (avoid cedar and pine) can be used with the soil/sand covering. A substrate that allows burrowing, such as alfalfa should be
used in the hide area. Care must be taken to keep substrate dry to protect against infections. Inspect the substrate daily, and change it regularly to prevent the build up of bacteria.

Temperature:

Compared to other box turtles, the Asian Box Turtle
requires a warm enclosure. Water temperatures in their enclosures must be in the 80-85 degree Fahrenheit range. Colder temperatures will discourage the turtles from entering
the water, causing stress and promoting medical problems. Ambient temperature in the dry area should be around 78 degrees. It’s essential to provide a basking spot with a
temperature of 88-90 degrees. Temperature levels can be maintained through the use of under tank mats, controlled by a thermostat or rheostat and an overhead basking lamp.
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using heat producing products. Since maintaining the proper temperature is so critical to the health of Asian Box Turtles,
it should never be guessed. Thermometers should be placed in the water, about two inches over the surface of the dry area substrate and in the basking area.

Lighting:

Vitamin D is essential to the Asian Box Turtle’s ability to absorb the calcium it needs to maintain its skeletal system, including its shell. In nature the turtle obtains vitamin D through its exposure to sunlight. This must be replicated in the enclosure through the use of UV lights designed specifically for terrariums. Fluorescent reptile UVB emitting bulbs should be placed over the enclosure and left on 12 hours a day. More light exposure can cause stress in the turtle. This bulb should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top.

Diet:

Asian Box Turtles are rarely picky eaters. In fact, they
will eat just about any food that comes their way. To ensure their health, they should be offered wholesome choices. A good varied diet includes commercial turtle food, live
feeder fish, king mealworms, gut loaded crickets, finely chopped cooked chicken, shredded carrots, kale, romaine lettuce, green beans, corn, orange squash, collard greens,
dandelions, straw-berries, black berries and plums. Spinach, parsley and rhubarb should be avoided since they can lower calcium levels in the body. Young turtles eat more
animal matter than adults, so meat shouldn’t make up more than about 10 percent of a full-grown Asian Box Turtle’s diet. Since they are prone to weight gain, Asian Box Turtles should be on a careful feeding schedule. Juveniles should be fed once a day or every other day, and adults twice a week. . Cuttlebone can be provided on a regular basis to protect against calcium deficiencies. If a turtle cannot close its shell it is obese, and it is time for more vegetables
and less fruit. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Food should be dusted with a vitamin and calcium supplement twice a week for hatchlings and ovulating females, and once a week for adults. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.

Water & Humidity:

Since they come from a tropical environment, it isn’t surprising that Asian Box Turtles require an enclosure with a high humidity level, at least 70 percent, and up to 90 percent. This can be maintained by securing a non-screen lid over half the tank, and through daily misting of the dry area. However, care should be taken to keep half the tank top screened, rather than closed, to allow adequate ventilation. Water in the
tank should be filtered by an aquarium filter (canisters work well), and changed daily to keep it clean and fresh. Asian Box Turtles spend much of their time in the water. Although they will take food in the dry area of an enclosure or the water, many prefer the latter. Uneaten food should be removed from the water after the turtle has finished its meal to discourage the growth of bacteria.