Cockatiel
(Nymphicus hollandicus)

Native To: Australia
Adult Size: 12 inches, 90 grams
Reaches Maturity: under 1 year    
Lifespan:  30 years                        
 

Characteristics:
A moderately active bird with a relatively low noise level and gentle temperament, the Cockatiel has become a popular family pet, who is as at home in an apartment or condo as he is in a large house. Although smart and responsive, the Cockatiel is not a likely to learn how to talk. Selective breeding has resulted in Cockatiels of many different colors, including pearl, cinnamon and charcoal.
 

Did You Know

  • In the wild, the Cockatiel’s plumage is grey.

  • Unlike most parrots, male and female wild-type Cockatiels exhibit differences at a very young age (about six months). The male takes on much more vivid coloration at this time, after its first molt. The female, after its first molt, will retain the barring (stripes across the feather) on the tail feathers and the underside of flight feathers.

  • The Cockatiel’s natural environment is the desert. By contrast, most other pet parrots come from tropical environments.
     

Look Out For This:
The Cockatiel is a very sociable bird, and if it is kept alone it should have regular interaction with its human companions. Some solitary Cockatiels can become unruly if not given sufficient attention from their owners. Some Cockatiels can become very frightened at night and thrash about in their cage. The cause of these “night frights” is unclear, but our avian vet recommends covering the cage at night, or putting a night light in the bird’s room. 

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole sources of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for birds and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

Things You Should Know About Cockatiels

The Basics:

Their relatively small size and good disposition have made the Cockatiel a popular pet, second only to parakeets among parrots. Although they are far less likely to learn how to talk than many other parrots, these beautiful birds charm their human companions with their gift for whistling and their sunny dispositions. Cockatiels can be found in an array of colors, including grey, cinnamon, pearl, albino and charcoal. These slender-bodied birds have long tails and a distinctive crest on the top of their heads. Aside from its striking beauty, the crest also serves as a communication tool, playing an important role in the bird’s body language.

Cage:

Despite their relatively small size, Cockatiels need a roomy cage to accommodate their long tails. Cockatiels spend most of their time at the top of the cage, so a cage that is long and wide will give the bird more room. Provided she is given time outside at a play gym every day, a Cockatiel can have a cage that’s 24” long by 18” wide by 20” high, though larger is better. Bar spacing should be no larger 5/8” to prevent a Cockatiel’s head from getting stuck.

CAUTION
In most cases, more space is more desirable for birds. However, when increasing the size of a Cockatiel’s cage, the bird’s human companion must be careful to maintain a safe (narrow) space between the bars. The bars of a cage have to be narrow enough to prevent a bird from sticking his head in between. Bars that are spaced too far apart for the bird’s size can result in serious and even fatal injuries.

Positioning The Cage:

A kitchen should never be chosen as the room for a Cockatiel’s cage, since fumes from cooking and from nonstick cookware and appliances will adversely affect the health of the bird. Windows that are exposed to full sunlight should also be avoided. Since Cockatiels can create a mess, it’s a good idea to position their cages in an area with a wooden or linoleum floor that is easy to clean. If the cage is kept over carpeting, a rug or mat can be put around the cage to make clean-up go more smoothly. As sociable birds, Cockatiels will appreciate having their cage positioned in an area where there is plenty of activity and a chance to receive attention from human friends. However, the cage should not be placed directly in the path of people as they go from room to room, or smack in the middle of a family’s hustle and bustle. An alcove off to the side of the family room, or a corner of the room, is ideal. It’s a good idea to position the cage so there are walls on two sides of it. This will give the Cockatiel the chance to take in all of the action, but will provide her with a sense of security.

Playthings:

Toys provide cockatiels with necessary mental and physical stimulation. Toys should be carefully positioned within the cage to prevent cluttering and still allow ample movement for a Cockatiel. Cockatiels love to climb appropriately sized ladders inside or outside the cage. Mirror toys are a good form of entertainment for the Cockatiel; males will often sing to their image. (However these toys have been associated with increased reproductive activity.) It is important to check mirror toys on a regular basis for damage to ensure that they are safe.
CAUTION: When using “mirrored” toys, these need to be made specifically for birds. Normal mirrors contain lead, which is toxic to birds.

Perches:

A Cockatiel needs to have a variety of perches made of different materials and of different thicknesses. The perches serve many important purposes. In addition to providing the bird with an area for standing, they help keep his beak and nails trim. The perches in a Cockatiel’s cage should in the area of ¾” thick. Perches should be placed below food and water bowls to allow the Cockatiel to eat and drink. It’s never a good idea to place perches directly over food or water bowls, since this increases the risk of waste getting in the bowl.

Play Time Outside The Cage:

Cockatiels require regular time outside of the cage to exercise and bond with their owners. Play gyms are important for the time a Cockatiel spends outside of a cage, providing it with a safe spot to play and climb.
For safety, Cockatiels should have their wings clipped by a professional. The wing trim may need to be repeated regularly, since Cockatiels can fly with only a few of their wings present. Curtains should be drawn over windows, and mirrors should be covered, to prevent a Cockatiel from flying into them when outside the cage.

Grooming:

Consult veterinarian or literature about trimming nails and possibly flight feathers

Bathing: Provide a shallow bowl of chlorine-free water for supervised bathing, or mist bird with chlorine-free water at least 4 times a week. Water must be lukewarm to room temperature. Avoid drafts. Remove bath bowl when finished.

Diet:

About 75% percent of a Cockatiel’s diet should consist of pellets, and 20% vegetables, with the remainder being made up of fruit with occasional seeds thrown in as treats. Pellets should be available at all times, though they should be replaced if moist or mixed with other foods. Fruits and vegetables should be rinsed, dried and cut into appropriately sized pieces before being offered to this bird. They should be removed within a few hours to prevent spoiling. Provide additional calcium i.e. cuttlebone during egg laying. Fresh chlorine-free water should be made available at all times. On average, Cockatiels consume about two to three teaspoons of water a day.

Grit should not be offered to Cockatiels; it is not necessary to aid the digestion of food, and it can become impacted in the digestive tract. Cuttlebone or a mineral block should be included in a Cockatiel’s cage, since it serves as a valuable source of minerals.

The beak of a young Cockatiel (under 4 months) is not as hard as an adult’s beak, so he should be given soft foods at this age. His diet will also need to be richer in calcium, protein and fat. Appropriate foods for a Cockatiel under four months of age include breeder pellets. For a rare treat the young Cockatiel can be offered warm (not hot) oatmeal, air-popped popcorn, cornbread, scrambled eggs that aren’t hot, whole wheat bread, millet spray and thawed frozen corn.

A Note About Water: All water given to birds for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
 
Cockatiels come to mature color around their first birthday. Males have a bright orange face patch and yellow cheeks. Many of the fancy color mutations make it difficult to distinguish males from females. The pied male when mature will look like a normal gray male; only the female will keep the pied coloration. These markings in females are less brilliantly colored and the tail feathers will retain the barring.
 
Be Careful!
Avocado pits, raw onions, salty snacks like chips or pretzels, chocolate, sugary treats like candy, alcohol, and rhubarb can be toxic to birds, so they should never be fed to an avian pet. Seeds in most fruits and vegetables, with the exception of melons and squashes, can also be toxic. So seeds should be removed from produce before it is offered to a pet bird.
 

Recommended Cockatiel Supplies:

  • Appropriately sized cage

  • A variety of perches, though one must be wooden

  • Ladder, mirror and other types of toys

  • Food bowls

  • Water bowls

  • Food pellets

  • Seed mix for treats

  • Cuttlebone

  • Mineral block or cuttlebone

  • Bird bath

  • Misting bottle

  • Play gym

  • Book on Cockatiel care