|
|
|
Cockatiel
(Nymphicus hollandicus)
Native To: Australia
Adult Size: 12 inches, 90
grams
Reaches Maturity: under 1
year
Lifespan: 30
years
|
|
Characteristics:
A moderately active bird with a
relatively low noise level and
gentle temperament, the
Cockatiel has become a popular
family pet, who is as at home in
an apartment or condo as he is
in a large house. Although smart
and responsive, the Cockatiel is
not a likely to learn how to
talk. Selective breeding has
resulted in Cockatiels of many
different colors, including
pearl, cinnamon and charcoal.
|
|
Did
You Know
-
In the wild, the Cockatiel’s
plumage is grey.
-
Unlike most parrots, male
and female wild-type
Cockatiels exhibit
differences at a very young
age (about six months). The
male takes on much more
vivid coloration at this
time, after its first molt.
The female, after its first
molt, will retain the
barring (stripes across the
feather) on the tail
feathers and the underside
of flight feathers.
-
The Cockatiel’s natural
environment is the desert.
By contrast, most other pet
parrots come from tropical
environments.
|
|
Look Out For This:
The Cockatiel is a very sociable
bird, and if it is kept alone it
should have regular interaction
with its human companions. Some
solitary Cockatiels can become
unruly if not given sufficient
attention from their owners.
Some Cockatiels can become very
frightened at night and thrash
about in their cage. The cause
of these “night frights” is
unclear, but our avian vet
recommends covering the cage at
night, or putting a night light
in the bird’s room.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole sources of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian trained in caring
for birds and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care.
|
|
Things You Should Know About
Cockatiels |
|
|
Their relatively small
size and good
disposition have made
the Cockatiel a popular
pet, second only to
parakeets among parrots.
Although they are far
less likely to learn how
to talk than many other
parrots, these beautiful
birds charm their human
companions with their
gift for whistling and
their sunny
dispositions. Cockatiels
can be found in an array
of colors, including
grey, cinnamon, pearl,
albino and charcoal.
These slender-bodied
birds have long tails
and a distinctive crest
on the top of their
heads. Aside from its
striking beauty, the
crest also serves as a
communication tool,
playing an important
role in the bird’s body
language. |
|
|
Despite their relatively
small size, Cockatiels
need a roomy cage to
accommodate their long
tails. Cockatiels spend
most of their time at
the top of the cage, so
a cage that is long and
wide will give the bird
more room. Provided she
is given time outside at
a play gym every day, a
Cockatiel can have a
cage that’s 24” long by
18” wide by 20” high,
though larger is better.
Bar spacing should be no
larger 5/8” to prevent a
Cockatiel’s head from
getting stuck. |
|
CAUTION
In most cases, more
space is more desirable
for birds. However, when
increasing the size of a
Cockatiel’s cage, the
bird’s human companion
must be careful to
maintain a safe (narrow)
space between the bars.
The bars of a cage have
to be narrow enough to
prevent a bird from
sticking his head in
between. Bars that
are spaced too far apart
for the bird’s size can
result in serious and
even fatal injuries. |
|
|
A kitchen should never
be chosen as the room
for a Cockatiel’s cage,
since fumes from cooking
and from nonstick
cookware and appliances
will adversely affect
the health of the bird.
Windows that are exposed
to full sunlight should
also be avoided. Since
Cockatiels can create a
mess, it’s a good idea
to position their cages
in an area with a wooden
or linoleum floor that
is easy to clean. If the
cage is kept over
carpeting, a rug or mat
can be put around the
cage to make clean-up go
more smoothly. As
sociable birds,
Cockatiels will
appreciate having their
cage positioned in an
area where there is
plenty of activity and a
chance to receive
attention from human
friends. However, the
cage should not be
placed directly in the
path of people as they
go from room to room, or
smack in the middle of a
family’s hustle and
bustle. An alcove off to
the side of the family
room, or a corner of the
room, is ideal. It’s a
good idea to position
the cage so there are
walls on two sides of
it. This will give the
Cockatiel the chance to
take in all of the
action, but will provide
her with a sense of
security. |
|
|
Toys provide cockatiels
with necessary mental
and physical
stimulation. Toys should
be carefully positioned
within the cage to
prevent cluttering and
still allow ample
movement for a
Cockatiel. Cockatiels
love to climb
appropriately sized
ladders inside or
outside the cage. Mirror
toys are a good form of
entertainment for the
Cockatiel; males will
often sing to their
image. (However these
toys have been
associated with
increased reproductive
activity.) It is
important to check
mirror toys on a regular
basis for damage to
ensure that they are
safe.
CAUTION: When
using “mirrored” toys,
these need to be made
specifically for birds.
Normal mirrors contain
lead, which is toxic to
birds. |
|
|
A Cockatiel needs to
have a variety of
perches made of
different materials and
of different
thicknesses. The perches
serve many important
purposes. In addition to
providing the bird with
an area for standing,
they help keep his beak
and nails trim. The
perches in a Cockatiel’s
cage should in the area
of ¾” thick. Perches
should be placed below
food and water bowls to
allow the Cockatiel to
eat and drink. It’s
never a good idea to
place perches directly
over food or water
bowls, since this
increases the risk of
waste getting in the
bowl. |
|
|
Cockatiels require
regular time outside of
the cage to exercise and
bond with their owners.
Play gyms are important
for the time a Cockatiel
spends outside of a
cage, providing it with
a safe spot to play and
climb.
For safety, Cockatiels
should have their wings
clipped by a
professional. The wing
trim may need to be
repeated regularly,
since Cockatiels can fly
with only a few of their
wings present. Curtains
should be drawn over
windows, and mirrors
should be covered, to
prevent a Cockatiel from
flying into them when
outside the cage. |
|
|
Consult veterinarian or
literature about
trimming nails and
possibly
flight feathers |
|
Bathing: |
Provide a shallow bowl
of chlorine-free water
for supervised bathing,
or mist bird with
chlorine-free water at
least 4 times a week.
Water must be lukewarm
to room temperature.
Avoid drafts. Remove
bath bowl when finished. |
|
|
About 75% percent of a
Cockatiel’s diet should
consist of pellets, and
20% vegetables, with the
remainder being made up
of fruit with occasional
seeds thrown in as
treats. Pellets should
be available at all
times, though they
should be replaced if
moist or mixed with
other foods. Fruits and
vegetables should be
rinsed, dried and cut
into appropriately sized
pieces before being
offered to this bird.
They should be removed
within a few hours to
prevent spoiling.
Provide additional
calcium i.e. cuttlebone
during egg laying. Fresh
chlorine-free water
should be made available
at all times. On
average, Cockatiels
consume about two to
three teaspoons of water
a day.
Grit should not be
offered to Cockatiels;
it is not necessary to
aid the digestion of
food, and it can become
impacted in the
digestive tract.
Cuttlebone or a mineral
block should be included
in a Cockatiel’s cage,
since it serves as a
valuable source of
minerals.
The beak of a young
Cockatiel (under 4
months) is not as hard
as an adult’s beak, so
he should be given soft
foods at this age. His
diet will also need to
be richer in calcium,
protein and fat.
Appropriate foods for a
Cockatiel under four
months of age include
breeder pellets. For a
rare treat the young
Cockatiel can be offered
warm (not hot) oatmeal,
air-popped popcorn,
cornbread, scrambled
eggs that aren’t hot,
whole wheat bread,
millet spray and thawed
frozen corn. |
|
A
Note About Water: |
All water given to birds
for drinking, as well as
water used for misting,
soaking or bathing must
be 100% free of chlorine
and heavy metals.
(Not all home water
filtration systems
remove 100% of the
chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. Do
not use distilled water,
which can cause severe
medical problems, since
it lacks minerals that
are essential to
important body
functions. |
|
Cockatiels come to mature color
around their first birthday.
Males have a bright orange face
patch and yellow cheeks. Many of
the fancy color mutations make
it difficult to distinguish
males from females. The pied
male when mature will look like
a normal gray male; only the
female will keep the pied
coloration. These markings in
females are less brilliantly
colored and the tail feathers
will retain the barring.
|
Be Careful!
Avocado pits, raw onions, salty
snacks like chips or pretzels,
chocolate, sugary treats like
candy, alcohol, and rhubarb can
be toxic to birds, so they
should never be fed to an avian
pet. Seeds in most fruits and
vegetables, with the exception
of melons and squashes, can also
be toxic. So seeds should be
removed from produce before it
is offered to a pet bird.
|
|
Recommended Cockatiel Supplies:
-
Appropriately sized cage
-
A variety of perches,
though one must be
wooden
-
Ladder, mirror and other
types of toys
-
Food bowls
-
Water bowls
-
Food pellets
-
Seed mix for treats
-
Cuttlebone
-
Mineral block or
cuttlebone
-
Bird bath
-
Misting bottle
-
Play gym
-
Book on Cockatiel care
|
|
|
|
|