Cockatoo - Bare-Eyed
(Cacatua sanguinea)

Native To: Australia and New Guinea   
Adult Size: 14-17 inches, 390-555 grams
Reaches Maturity: 4 years    
Lifespan: up to 50 years  

Characteristics:
This relatively small Cockatoo is named for the distinctive blue-gray rings around its eyes. The rings, along with the Bare-Eyed’s quizzical expression and pinkish facial patches, give him a somewhat clownish appearance. True to his looks, the Bare-Eyed Cockatoo has a strong comical streak, loving to amuse his human companions with humorous antics. Most of his plumage, including his crest, is white. He is also sometimes referred to as the “Little Corella.”

Did You Know

  • During the non-breeding season, Bare-Eyed Cockatoos will form flocks reaching 20,000 birds or more.

  • The Bare-Eyed is one of the most intelligent and talkative cockatoos.

Look Out For This:
Houdinis of the avian world, cockatoos like the Bare-Eyed will sometimes learn how to open basic cage locks. The Bare-Eyed also produces a higher than average volume of feather dust, which may be a concern for anyone with allergies. The Blue-Eyed is less emotionally demanding than many other cockatoos, so he is also less prone to get upset if he isn’t the center of attention. However, he must have regular contact to avoid developing behavioral problems. He also has a very loud voice.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole sources of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for birds and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

Things You Should Know About Bare-Eyed Cockatoos

The Basics:

Although he shares a great deal in common with most other Cockatoos, the Bare-Eyed also has some distinctive traits. The most noticeable is the pronounced blue-grey circles around his eyes. He is also one of the top Cockatoos when it comes to intelligence and talking ability, and compared to his cockatoo brethren, he is less dependent on his human companions. If left alone for a while, he will amuse himself, provided good toys are accessible. However, he cannot be too ignored, or in true cockatoo fashion, he will screech to get his owner’s attention. The Bare-Eyed is also potentially a high-strung bird, and will be prone to feather picking if he doesn’t have steady human companionship.

Cage:

Despite his small size, the Bare-Eyed needs a relatively large amount of space in his cage, so he has room to perform his antics and get enough physical and mental exercise. This little dynamo’s cage should measure at least 30” long, by 30” wide, by 36” high. It is a good idea to have a cage with multiple or extremely secure locks to keep the clever Bare-Eyed from escaping. No more than ¾”space should be allowed between the bars.

CAUTION
In most cases, more space is more desirable for birds. However, when increasing the size of a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo’s cage, the bird’s human companion must be careful to maintain a safe (narrow) space between the bars. The bars of a cage have to be narrow enough to prevent a bird from sticking his head in between. Bars that are spaced too far apart for the bird’s size can result in serious and even fatal injuries.

Positioning The Cage:

A Bare-Eyed Cockatoo’s cage should be positioned in an area where there is plenty of family activity to keep her mentally stimulated. However, the cage should also offer enough privacy to provide her with a sense of security. So, it isn’t a good idea to put the cage in the middle of a room, or by a heavily traveled walkway. Instead, it should be in an alcove or in area that has a wall on one or two sides of the cage. As a good rule of thumb, no family member should be able to walk all the way around the cage. The cage should offer the Bare-Eyed a private secluded area. For the sake of the bird’s health, her cage should never be in drafts or direct sunlight.

If there is a lot of night-time activity in the room that houses the cage, such as a TV going after 9 pm, the Bare-Eyed should be provided with a small sleeping cage in another, quieter room. Another alternative is to have a cage on wheels, so it can be moved to a quiet area at night. It is critically important that the bird be provided with at least 10-12 hours of quiet undisturbed sleep time each night. The cage can be covered at night. This cover should be washed weekly, since it will accumulate feather dust.

A Bare-Eyed’s cage should never be placed in the kitchen, since fumes from cooking can prove fatal. The cage should also never be placed in direct sunlight or draft.

Playthings:

Keep plenty of chew toys in the cage, since Cockatoos are enthusiastic chewers that love to work things over with their beaks. All toys should be made for cockatoos or large parrots for safety. The Bare-Eyed should also be provided with toys made from wood or other materials that can be safely chewed.

Perches:

Bare-Eyed Cockatoos should be provided with a variety of different perches made of different materials and of different diameters. Perches should be at least 9” long and around 1” in diameter, plus or minus ¼” to ½”, for variety. Natural wood perches not only provide a perch, but also a safe thing for Cockatoos to chew on. A perch should be placed in front of, but not above, food and water dishes.

Play Time Outside The Cage:

Like all Cockatoos, Bare-Eyeds should spend the majority of the day outside of their cage, interacting with their owners. Their wings should be clipped by a professional and checked regularly. Play gyms are important since Cockatoos will be spending ample time outside of their cage, but still need to remain entertained and amused. Even outside of a cage, a Bare Eyed requires a variety of toys and activities to keep occupied.

Grooming:

Consult veterinarian or literature about trimming nails and possibly flight feathers

Bathing:

Provide a shallow bowl of chlorine-free water for supervised bathing. Use chlorine-free water when misting bird too. Bath and mist water must be lukewarm to room temperature. Avoid drafts. Remove bath bowl when finished. A lukewarm bath or shower on a regular basis will contribute to a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo’s health and well-being.

Diet:

Pellets should make up 65-80% of a Bare-Eyed’s diet. Fresh and washed vegetables should make up 15-30%, and fresh fruits less than 5%. Fruits and vegetables should be rinsed, dried and cut into appropriately sized pieces before being offered to this bird. Seeds, grains and treats can be given only as rare treats. Food should be offered to the bird two to three times a day. Provide additional calcium i.e. cuttlebone during egg laying. Fresh chlorine-free water should be made available at all times. On average Cockatoos will consume about 10 to 15 teaspoons of water daily.

A Note About Water: All water given to birds for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.

Be Careful!
Avocado pits, raw onions, salty snacks like chips or pretzels, chocolate, sugary treats like candy, alcohol, and rhubarb can be toxic to birds, so they should never be fed to an avian pet. Seeds in most fruits and vegetables, with the exception of melons and squashes, can also be toxic. So seeds should be removed from produce before it is offered to a pet bird.
 

Recommended Bare-Eyed Cockatoo Supplies:

  • Appropriately sized cage

  • A variety of perches, though one must be wooden

  • Wooden, chewable and other types of toys

  • Food bowls

  • Water bowls

  • Food pellets

  • Cuttlebone

  • Climbing tree

  • Bathing bowl

  • Seed mix for treats

  • Play gym

  • Book on Cockatoo care