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Cockatoo - Bare-Eyed
(Cacatua sanguinea)
Native To: Australia and
New Guinea
Adult Size: 14-17 inches,
390-555 grams
Reaches Maturity: 4
years
Lifespan: up to 50
years
Characteristics:
This relatively small Cockatoo
is named for the distinctive
blue-gray rings around its eyes.
The rings, along with the Bare-Eyed’s
quizzical expression and pinkish
facial patches, give him a
somewhat clownish appearance.
True to his looks, the Bare-Eyed
Cockatoo has a strong comical
streak, loving to amuse his
human companions with humorous
antics. Most of his plumage,
including his crest, is white.
He is also sometimes referred to
as the “Little Corella.”
Did
You Know
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During the non-breeding
season, Bare-Eyed Cockatoos
will form flocks reaching
20,000 birds or more.
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The Bare-Eyed is one of the
most intelligent and
talkative cockatoos.
Look Out For This:
Houdinis of the avian world,
cockatoos like the Bare-Eyed
will sometimes learn how to open
basic cage locks. The Bare-Eyed
also produces a higher than
average volume of feather dust,
which may be a concern for
anyone with allergies. The
Blue-Eyed is less emotionally
demanding than many other
cockatoos, so he is also less
prone to get upset if he isn’t
the center of attention.
However, he must have regular
contact to avoid developing
behavioral problems. He also has
a very loud voice.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole sources of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian trained in caring
for birds and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care.
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Things You Should Know About
Bare-Eyed Cockatoos |
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Although he shares a
great deal in common
with most other
Cockatoos, the Bare-Eyed
also has some
distinctive traits. The
most noticeable is the
pronounced blue-grey
circles around his eyes.
He is also one of the
top Cockatoos when it
comes to intelligence
and talking ability, and
compared to his cockatoo
brethren, he is less
dependent on his human
companions. If left
alone for a while, he
will amuse himself,
provided good toys are
accessible. However, he
cannot be too ignored,
or in true cockatoo
fashion, he will screech
to get his owner’s
attention. The Bare-Eyed
is also potentially a
high-strung bird, and
will be prone to feather
picking if he doesn’t
have steady human
companionship. |
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Despite his small size,
the Bare-Eyed needs a
relatively large amount
of space in his cage, so
he has room to perform
his antics and get
enough physical and
mental exercise. This
little dynamo’s cage
should measure at least
30” long, by 30” wide,
by 36” high. It is a
good idea to have a cage
with multiple or
extremely secure locks
to keep the clever
Bare-Eyed from escaping.
No more than ¾”space
should be allowed
between the bars. |
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CAUTION
In most cases, more
space is more desirable
for birds. However, when
increasing the size of a
Bare-Eyed Cockatoo’s
cage, the bird’s human
companion must be
careful to maintain a
safe (narrow) space
between the bars. The
bars of a cage have to
be narrow enough to
prevent a bird from
sticking his head in
between. Bars that
are spaced too far apart
for the bird’s size can
result in serious and
even fatal injuries. |
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A Bare-Eyed Cockatoo’s
cage should be
positioned in an area
where there is plenty of
family activity to keep
her mentally stimulated.
However, the cage should
also offer enough
privacy to provide her
with a sense of
security. So, it isn’t a
good idea to put the
cage in the middle of a
room, or by a heavily
traveled walkway.
Instead, it should be in
an alcove or in area
that has a wall on one
or two sides of the
cage. As a good rule of
thumb, no family member
should be able to walk
all the way around the
cage. The cage should
offer the Bare-Eyed a
private secluded area.
For the sake of the
bird’s health, her cage
should never be in
drafts or direct
sunlight.
If there is a lot of
night-time activity in
the room that houses the
cage, such as a TV going
after 9 pm, the
Bare-Eyed should be
provided with a small
sleeping cage in
another, quieter room.
Another alternative is
to have a cage on
wheels, so it can be
moved to a quiet area at
night. It is critically
important that the bird
be provided with at
least 10-12 hours of
quiet undisturbed sleep
time each night. The
cage can be covered at
night. This cover should
be washed weekly, since
it will accumulate
feather dust.
A Bare-Eyed’s cage
should never be placed
in the kitchen, since
fumes from cooking can
prove fatal. The cage
should also never be
placed in direct
sunlight or draft. |
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Keep plenty of chew toys
in the cage, since
Cockatoos are
enthusiastic chewers
that love to work things
over with their beaks.
All toys should be made
for cockatoos or large
parrots for safety. The
Bare-Eyed should also be
provided with toys made
from wood or other
materials that can be
safely chewed. |
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Bare-Eyed Cockatoos
should be provided with
a variety of different
perches made of
different materials and
of different diameters.
Perches should be at
least 9” long and around
1” in diameter, plus or
minus ¼” to ½”, for
variety. Natural wood
perches not only provide
a perch, but also a safe
thing for Cockatoos to
chew on. A perch should
be placed in front of,
but not above, food and
water dishes. |
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Like all Cockatoos,
Bare-Eyeds should spend
the majority of the day
outside of their cage,
interacting with their
owners. Their wings
should be clipped by a
professional and checked
regularly. Play gyms are
important since
Cockatoos will be
spending ample time
outside of their cage,
but still need to remain
entertained and amused.
Even outside of a cage,
a Bare Eyed requires a
variety of toys and
activities to keep
occupied. |
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Consult veterinarian or
literature about
trimming nails and
possibly flight feathers |
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Bathing: |
Provide a shallow bowl
of chlorine-free water
for supervised bathing.
Use chlorine-free water
when misting bird too.
Bath and mist water must
be lukewarm to room
temperature. Avoid
drafts. Remove bath bowl
when finished. A
lukewarm bath or shower
on a regular basis will
contribute to a
Bare-Eyed Cockatoo’s
health and well-being. |
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Pellets should make up
65-80% of a Bare-Eyed’s
diet. Fresh and washed
vegetables should make
up 15-30%, and fresh
fruits less than 5%.
Fruits and vegetables
should be rinsed, dried
and cut into
appropriately sized
pieces before being
offered to this bird.
Seeds, grains and treats
can be given only as
rare treats. Food should
be offered to the bird
two to three times a
day. Provide additional
calcium i.e. cuttlebone
during egg laying. Fresh
chlorine-free water
should be made available
at all times. On average
Cockatoos will consume
about 10 to 15 teaspoons
of water daily. |
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A
Note About Water: |
All water given to birds
for drinking, as well as
water used for misting,
soaking or bathing must
be 100% free of chlorine
and heavy metals.
(Not all home water
filtration systems
remove 100% of the
chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. Do
not use distilled water,
which can cause severe
medical problems, since
it lacks minerals that
are essential to
important body
functions. |
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Be Careful!
Avocado pits, raw onions,
salty snacks like chips or
pretzels, chocolate, sugary
treats like candy, alcohol, and
rhubarb can be toxic to birds,
so they should never be fed to
an avian pet. Seeds in most
fruits and vegetables, with the
exception of melons and
squashes, can also be toxic. So
seeds should be removed from
produce before it is offered to
a pet bird.
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Recommended Bare-Eyed Cockatoo
Supplies:
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Appropriately sized cage
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A variety of perches, though
one must be wooden
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Wooden, chewable and other
types of toys
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Food bowls
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Water bowls
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Food pellets
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Cuttlebone
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Climbing tree
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Bathing bowl
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Seed mix for treats
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Play gym
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Book on Cockatoo care
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